20th Year No. 96 NATURE'S T IP -SE E D IN THE FALL TO a football enthusiast fall means October and November. To a woman it’s August, the time for buy­ ing a new hat and fur coat. To those interested in fixing up a lawn it is the period from late August until Novem­ ber, which is the best time of year to start new grass. the soil can be worked. If the ground can be prepared in November it’s bet­ ter to go ahead even though the seed may not germinate until the next spring. The lawn will be ahead of one where the final preparation is delayed until the passing of winter. THE FALL PROGRAM If broad-leaved weeds are bad spray them away with Scotts 4-X or with a spreader application of the new dry weed-feed compound. Whenever weed control is applied it’s well to wait a week or ten days before seeding. Crabgrass should be subjugated by one of the means described elsewhere in this issue. Hard, compact areas can be aer­ ated by perforating with a spading fork to a depth of 3 or 4 inches. In tree shaded lawns give serious consideration to an independent feed­ ing of the trees (L awn Care N o. 69) for the sake of the trees and to reduce the drain of food from the zone where grass roots are located. Feed the grass when it is dry by applying Scotts Turf Builder at 10 pounds per 1000 square feet. It is not necessary to water in if properly ap­ plied with a spreader or broadcast evenly by hand at the prescribed rate. Seeding can follow immediately after Turf Builder. Seeds need mois­ ture to germinate and the root hairs from the sprouting grass must be able to reach soil moisture quickly. Little moisture is available to seeds lying on Nature sees to it that uncut grasses bloom and drop their seeds in late sum­ mer. In that way she insures perpetua­ tion of the species. The seed falls on warm soil at a time when hot days are growing shorter, cool nights longer, dews heavier, and soil moisture more favorable. These factors add up to bet­ ter germination and seedling growth. Fall is a good time to feed as well as seed lawns. It is especially important after an excessively rainy spring and summer. Too much moisture causes a heavy loss of nutrients because of leach­ ing and rank vegetative growth. Any­ one pushing a lawn mower during this past season knows that he had to cut at least twice the normal “crop” of grass if he lived within the rainy belt. A good feeding in late August or September will restore the nutrient re­ serve and strengthen grass roots against the rigors of a coming winter. There is no better time than fall to start a new lawn, to renovate a poor one or to give a beauty treatment to the well established lawn. The earlier preparation for a new lawn gets under way the better. Late August or Sep­ tember seeding is ideal but it’s never too late to seed in the fall—as long as ♦ 2 top of the ground exposed to sun and wind. If seed is sown into a rather good turf, shade from the grass will protect the seed and sprouts to a degree. But if sowing is in thin grass with sizeable bare spots some help is needed. Any roughening, perforating or loosening of the soil gives the seed a better chance. Tools that will aid in perforat­ ing the surface for better seed reception include the heavy iron garden rake, a spading fork like the kind used to dig potatoes, or a spike tamp. A flat spade, an edging tool, a mat­ tock or even an axe may be used to cut shallow gashes in the soil where seed may lodge, there being protected from the sun and finding a moisture supply. If the roughening operation severs roots of established grass no particular harm is done as the plants will soon heal the injury. Most seed is sown by hand, but a mechanical spreader of good design for seeding will save both seed and time and insure more even growth. A good practice after seeding is a shallow covering of soil that has been screened through a quarter-inch mesh screen. Some folks are expert at scat­ tering this with a shovel, others broad­ cast the soil as they would seed. Only a light covering is advised, not over a quarter-inch; heavier covering will re­ tard early growth. One cubic yard will dress 1,000 to 2,000 square feet. Aside from nurseries or landscape contractors, greenhouses are possible sources of supply of satisfactory top­ dressing soil. The latter offer what they call spent bench soil. In some commu­ nities, compost is available from mush­ room growers. Black muck or raw peat is no good. The important thing is friable physical condition like a good garden loam. Do not judge on color SCOTTS LAWN CARE alone. One trouble with topdressing is that it may bring in weeds. Care after seeding. If possible keep newly seeded areas moist. This hastens germ in ation and seedling growth. Once started, watering must be continued until the grass is well rooted. If it’s not feasible to follow this watering program do not start it. Sooner or later rainfall will come and when there is enough moisture the seed will germinate. The standard recommendation for most lawns is cutting iy2 to 2 inches high, especially through hot weather. This practice should be modified as new grass starts coming up in an old lawn. Closer cutting is advised to prevent the old grass from smothering the new. Crabgrass Is No. 1 Pest Dandelion, plantain, ragweed, even poison ivy no longer stand in the way of perfect lawn enjoyment. They are easily conquered with the new chemi­ cal weed controls. But crabgrass is still a fight. Some struggle against it year after year because they do not take advan­ tage of its real vulnerability. They do not realize Crabgrass is strictly an an­ nual and that control is in prevention of seed ripening. Crabgrass may start seeding as early as July and continues until frost unless this natural process is tripped up. It is this seeding which sets the crop for the next year. Ordinary mowing does not cut off the seed heads because many of them develop so close to the ground as to escape the mower blades. Raking up, mowing, catching and destroying the clippings is one effective procedure if started about mid-August and con­ tinued until heavy frost when Crab­ grass dies. Wherever Crabgrass is vigorous it tends to choke out and kill the desir- NUMBER 96 able grasses which are not so aggres­ sive during hot weather. Because of this early fall seeding is advised in Crabgrass stands so good grass can start as the Crabgrass subsides in Sep­ tember. Lawn Care readers have exhibited great originality and initiative in their fight on Crabgrass. Witness some of their testimony: SIRS: I struggled with Crabgrass for several years I and found that weeding was impossible. therefore resorted to drastic means. While the Crabgrass was at the “height of its beauty” I obtained a Hauck kerosene torch such as are employed occasionally in the repair of asphalt road surfacing. I went over the lawn, applying sufficient heat to wilt the grass and in a few days the plants were completely brown. The perennial grasses, of course, were also browned but within two weeks they had revived. Only an occasional Crabgrass plant survived. It was easy to weed out these survivals. H. KLOUMAN Edgewood, Michigan City, Ind. SIRS: I have found that a good pair of edging shears with offset handle can be used to clip the Crabgrass close to or immediately under the ground surface, from which treat­ ment it never recovers. The desirable grass roots will throw up tops as soon as relieved from the competition of the Crabgrass. The lawn looks terrible for a week or more after this treatment, but nowhere nearly so bad as if the Crabgrass had been pulled. Freeport, 111. SIRS: A. L. RICHE About the first of August quit mowing and let the grass grow to two or three inches. The Crabgrass will head high instead of stooling out near the ground. Hire some boys to go over the lawn pulling the heads of Crabgrass while still very green. If you have enough will power to let the lawn grow another couple of weeks and re­ peat the process, you will get practically all the heads. Then mow and rake and keep a sharp watch for the heads missed. Repeat the next year and by the third year you will be almost rid of the Crabgrass. Ames, Iowa J. B. P, 3 Blight Hits Lawns As Well as Gardens During the last few weeks the daily press has carried numerous reports from plant disease specialists telling of ruinous blight damage to tomatoes, potatoes, and other vegetable and orna­ mental plants. Wet, cool weather is favorable for the development of causal fungi. Some of them, in particular the Helmintho- sporium, attack the leaves of grasses. If subsequent growing conditions are ideal, the plant may be able to throw off the disease. If not, and sudden spells of hot, humid weather follow, the result may be more than the plant can withstand. This year the damage has been as bad or even worse than the excessively wet year of 1937—when it was felt nec­ essary to publish a supplementary issue and devote a regular issue of L awn C are to the problem of “Turf Injury From Excess Moisture.” It was pointed out then that if the soil is saturated with water there is no room for air, and the deeper roots are drowned for want of oxygen. A shallow-rooted plant, whether in the lawn or garden, is a weaker plant, sus­ ceptible to injury from disease attacks, sudden exposure to hot sun or drying or other adverse conditions. Damage from fungous diseases is worse when grass growth is soft and lush. In 1947, as in 1937, the fungous disease known as “Leaf Spot” was re­ sponsible for a lot of turf yellowing, then turning brown and dying. This resulted in general thinning of the turf or even complete destruction in patches. Leaf Spot is so named because the disease first shows on grass blades in tiny yellowish- brown specks. As they enlarge, the center of the spots becomes straw colored and the area of injury extends until the whole leaf is dis­ colored. The final development of the disease 4 carries it to the stems and roots and ultimate destruction of the plant. Once Leaf Spot infects a grass plant, only a change in weather or growing conditions will check it. Damping-Off. When seeding turf is spotted with dead patches varying in diameter from one inch to several inches it is likely that damping-off has occurred. Sometimes this fungous disease kills the sprouts before they emerge from the ground, making it appear that the seed failed to germinate. At other times the disease comes after the grass is well started. The young grass first withers, then turns brown. Mildew. At times a nice stand of grass suddenly appears to have been dusted with flour. This is caused by powdery mildew, which resembles the mold that grows on old shoes left in damp places. If the mildew is wiped off the surface, it will usually be found that the grass blade is green and not injured. Scum. It is not uncommon to find scum on wet lawn soils. This is a growth of algae caused by excessive moisture. It usually does no harm and disappears when weather changes. Toadstools have sprouted in many lawns this year. They grow out of pieces of organic matter long buried in the soil and now decay­ ing at an accelerated rate because of excess moisture. Usually regular mowing eliminates toadstools. They are not harmful to the lawn except in appearance. Weeds Down, Grass Up It is gratifying the way readers of L awn Care write us of their lawn ex­ periences. Of course we are particu­ larly happy when they report good success with a Scott product such as our new combination lawn food plus weed control. Here are just a few comments from the summer mail, but they are typical: . My lawn was a sight. Dandelions all over it. I dug and dug but no headway. I read of Weed/Feed. Now PHILADELPHIA . . SCOTTS LAWN CARE all my neighbors ask why they have all my weeds and I have none of theirs . . . best I have ever seen to kill weeds and promote grass. PROVIDENCE . . . really kills dandelions and plantain. Some accomplishment. I con­ gratulate you. AMHERST, MASS. . . . It is magic. No other word for the way Lawn Food plus Weed Control works. OZONE PARK, L. I. . . . a little damage to grass because of hand scattering. In 4 or 5 hours big weeds lying around, soon dried up. Lawn now nice and green. Neighbors’ lawns are faded. ELYRIA, O. . . Your Weed/Feed per­ formed a miracle on chickweed, dandelion, ground ivy, plantain. Our lawn is a trans­ formation. . DETROIT . . . results are most gratifying. We will weed-feed again in the fall. CHICAGO . . . used 16 boxes, just ordered 32 more. Far surpasses anything else. DOWNER’S GROVE, ILL. . apology due. Litde slow at first but now unbelievably good results. Your spreader is tops. . . ST. LOUIS . . . Lawn Care No. 94 did not exaggerate. Action on dandelions and chickweed amazing. Lawn is best ever. RED WING, MINN. . . . appreciation of Lawn Food plus Weed Control. Results fa­ vorable in only two weeks. DEADWOOD, S. DAK. . . . Dandelions and plantain twisting in few days. Particu­ larly pleased. . . . LOS ANGELES . . . Pesky weed known as Australian Brass Button gone in 14 days. Also dandelions and other weeds. Frankly not every user was made this happy. Tracing these unusual cases we found: (1) excessive applica­ tion; (2) soft lush grass weakened by excessive rains and fungous diseases; (3) application to grass in last stages of life because of poor growing con­ dition, or to brand new grass not yet ready for feeding. O M SCOTT & SONS C O . O H I O EVERY PACKAGE OF SCOTTS LAWN CARE PRODUCTS BEARS THIS TRADE • MARK AND IS SEALED FOR YOUR PROTECTION