A discussion of the vital problems of lawn making and maintenance P U B L I S H ED S E V E R AL TIMES YEARLY BY Vol. V O. M. SCOTT & S O NS C O M P A NY - SEEDSMEN March-April 1932 - MARYS VILLE, O H IO No. 2 ized that seed of this species was not commercially available. Furthermore, the farms adjacent to ports with a quack- grass covering would soon be overrun with this ruinous pest. It was just an- other good idea with no hope of fruition. QUACK-GRASS (Agropyron repens) Also called Couch-grass, Wheat- grass, Twitch-grass, Dog-grass, Devils-grass. A perennial which propagates by seeds and creeping rootstalks. DESTRUCTION. Quack-grass in lawn areas may be combated by three methods—cultivation, by the use of chemicals, and by smothering with an airtight covering such as tar paper. QUACK-GRASS A Die Hard A VOTE among the farming popu- lace on the most undesirable weed would likely result in a big majority for Quack-grass. And yet this same pest makes fine hay, excellent pas- ture, and is unsur- passed as a sod-binder. The great objection is, it cannot be con- trolled. The tenacious, fibrous roots joint fre- quently and are very to destroy. difficult Quack-grass simply will not stay in its place; consequently we find it classified as a most damaging weed, rather than a desir- able grass. CONSIDERED FOR AIRPORTS. As a possible cover for airports, Quack- grass gained some prominence a few years ago. Its tough- ness and resistance to adversity in general led certain airport engineers to regard Quack-grass as the ideal cover for land- ing fields. Such recommendations were unfortunately made before it was real- OFTEN MISTAKEN FOR GOOD GRASS. When Quack-grass appears in a lawn it may be at first mis- taken for a satisfac- tory newcomer even though the blades are a bit wider than lawn grasses and the color an ashy green. The leaves are rough on top and smooth un- derneath. When the plant goes to seed it resembles the head of wheat. is readily distinguishable, how- ever, because the spikelets containing the seeds alternate on the stems as shown in the illustration. It THREE METHODS OF 1. Cultivating by starving the roots of Quack-grass through frequent and close cutting, followed by plowing and harrowing, will usually destroy the plants. This process should be started some time in advance of seeding, how- ever. Time should be allowed for the grass to green-up again after which the harrowing (with sharp teeth) should be repeated. If a new lawn is to be started in the fall the plowing should be done in June. There should be no doubt as to the thoroughness with which the Quack- grass has been annihilated for it is almost certain to show up again when the lawn is built, for a single root stalk can re- infest it. 2. Killing with Chemicals. The most commonly used chemical is Sodium Chlo- rate which we have heretofore recom- mended in the control of other weeds. The difference here is that enough must be used to kill all vegetation. There is no hope of killing the Quack-grass without killing the other grass too. For applica- tion to this pest Sodium Chlorate should be made into solution at the rate of 1 pound in a gallon of water. The Sodium Chlorate crystals may be put in a burlap sack and suspended in the top of the proper amount of water. It will dissolve in from one to two hours. In June a sin- gle spraying may do the work, but usu- ally two or three are necessary to kill all the plants. Summer and fall spraying of Quack-grass have proven especially suc- cessful. The soil is not productive immediately after Sodium Chlorate has been used. If put on in early summer and then fol- lowed with a heavy application of lime (as much as 500 pounds per 1000 square feet) the ground can be safely seeded to new grass in September. When Quack- grass is killed in the fall, seeding may be done the following spring. CAUTIONL In a previous issue of L A WN C A RE (February 1930) we called attention to the danger of allowing Sodium Chlorate to come in contact with certain organic material, under which conditions it be- comes explosive. The Ohio Experiment Station has issued very specific directions with reference to the handling of this chemical. Sodium Chlorate itself cannot be burned or exploded, but when it is mixed with, or comes in contact with combustible material such as sulphur, leather, starch, wood, straw, cotton or any other plant product it causes an explosion if struck, or burns very rapidly if ignited. Potassium Chlorate is an important in- gredient of match heads and Sodium Chlorate can be used for the same pur- pose. It is well to observe these precautions in the handling of Sodium Chlorate. 1. Use metal containers. 2. Wear rubber boots when spraying. 3. Do not use matches around spray clothing that has dried out. 4. Wash thoroughly or destroy all clothing or sacks that have be- come soaked with the solution. 5. Always store or carry Sodium Chlorate in tight metal or glass con- tainers, not in cloth or paper sacks. 6. Keep Sodium Chlorate tightly covered to prevent foreign matter from getting in. 7. Keep Sodium Chlorate away from children as you would any other dangerous material. 8. Make up Sodium Chlorate solution out of doors. Sodium Chlorate is more readily ob- tainable than the other suitable chlorates such as Calcium and Magnesium which are also usable in Quack-grass killing. These are not inflammable although they are seldom as easily procurable and are considerably higher in price. Sodium Chlorate should be obtainable at about 10c per pound in quantity. 3. Smothering. It is the Quack-grass roots which make this pest so mischiev- ous. They obtain their nourishment from the above surface growth. Consequently the plants can be destroyed if the food supply is cut off. In very small areas by covering with boards, tar paper, or spreading a thick blanket of manure or straw over the ground to exclude the air, the plants will in two or three months time be left withered and dead. It becomes quite obvious that Quack- grass is a tough "animal." We caution against trying to start a new lawn on ground where this pest is at large. Kill it first and spare the necessity of later ruining your grass to do it. QUACK MEETS QUACK. We had never heard it intimated that there was any relationship between Quack-grass and the dialect of the duck family. But Carl L. Sherwood of De- troit, Michigan, recites the following ex- perience: "Our garden is rectangular and runs north and south. The Quack-grass seemed to be coming in upon us from the east and south sides. It finally got the best of us and choked out our currant bushes. Even the strawberry bed was destroyed. We pulled out the grass by the roots but whenever we broke off a root a dozen new ones seemed to appear. Finally we bought three wild ducks, fenced off the south end of the gar- den and put said ducks in the enclos- ure. It was fun to see them go after the Quack- grass. They would start at the top and follow the stem to the end of the roots. They liked the fresh tender roots and did not leave a particle in the ground. When they had done a thorough job we moved the fence and provided fresh pas- ture. I don't know whether the grass gets its name from the duck, or the ducks get their name from the grass, but if you will follow this suggestion, there will be just one kind of quack left." So, according to Mr. Sherwood, a fourth method of combating Quack- grass is ducks. Gas For Dandelions " n p H E RE is one simple cure I would J- like to add to this list. I feel this could well replace all other remedies. Use a cheap grade of gasoline; apply this with an ordinary hand oil can to the crown of the plant. In twenty-four hours you will find Mr. Dandelion has gone where all good dandelions go. There will be no more sprouting. If there should be a nice long juicy flower stem just pluck this off, otherwise there will be enough sap to mature the seeds. Short stems, don't bother. No cutting or other trou- ble, just squirt on a little cheap gasoline. This same treatment will kill any weed— or plant. A tiny spot of bluegrass may be killed once in a while, this could not be found in a week. Digging tears up the lawn and also kills a spot of grass by removing it."—ROY L. ISHAM, 101 S. Allen, Chanute, Kans. This method of fighting Dandelions was mentioned in February 1 9 29 L A WN CARE. We agree with Mr. Isham that it is probably the most effective means of warfare. Some years ago we offered for sale a Dandelion Killer made of brass and equipped with a plunger and valve which would inject about a teaspoonful of gasoline into the root of the plant. The chamber itself with a screw-cap would hold about a pint of fluid. The weakest feature of these "killers" was the valve which had the habit of refus- ing to function after it had been used for a few months. Some of our friends may still have these instruments in use. If so we should like to know whether or not they are still working. We have al- ways lived in hopes that someone of an inventive turn of mind would devise a dandelion destroyer embodying this prin- ciple and able to survive at least a dozen seasons of hard usage. Bent Lawns MORE than half of our customers have been introduced to us through the magic words "Creeping Bent." To the golfers they signify velvet-like greens and to many lovers of fine lawns they mean the most beautiful of all turf grasses. Creeping Bent as it may be had in seed form appears in our lawn mix- tures, but we are referring now to the vegetative method of planting where Sto- lons rather than seed are used. In 1922 we published the first edition of our booklet "Bent Lawns." In each succeeding year many changes have been made in the contents for grass culture is never at a standstill. Something new is always being learned. The latest story of Creeping Bent will be found in our 1932 edition. You may have a copy for the asking. Scott's Creeping Bent is the subject of a four color page advertisement appear- ing in the February issue of BETTER H O M ES AND GARDENS. — I— When You Send a Weed IF you wish to mail us a weed or grass identification please moisten slightly and wrap in wax paper. This insures our receiving the specimen in its original freshness. specimen for At Last—A Lawn "I have been told frequently that my lawn is the best looking in this section of Virginia. This is the first time that I have used your seed and Turf Builder, but in the future I propose to use none other."—FRANK J. GILLIAM, Department of English, Washington & Lee Univer- sity, Lexington, Va. — *— Scott Publications Lawns, a small booklet of condensed facts about the making of a new lawn and the improving of an old one. Bent Lawns, an illustrated booklet which tells how to make and maintain a Creeping Bent Lawn. Converting to Creeping Bent, a folder which explains four methods of remak- ing and improving an old lawn by using Bent. Lawn Making and Maintenance. Six- ty pages of specific information that will be especially helpful in the building or care of large lawn areas. The Putting Green. An illustrated book telling how to construct and main- tain grass greens. Gratis to greens chair- men, greenkeepers, or any golf club offi- cers. To others at actual cost of 25 cents. There have been nineteen previous is- sues of Lawn Care and the following lawn pests have been discussed: Plantain, Crab Grass, Dandelions, Moss, Grubs and Beetles, Chickweed, Buckhorn, Ground Ivy, Yarrow, Earthworms, Heal- all, Ants, Speedwell, Creeping Butter- cup, Sod Web-Worms, Moles, Knot Grass and Sorrel. Binders for Lawn Care, made of imi- tation leather and capable of holding the next ten years' bulletins, are furnished at actual cost of 50c, postage paid. Each binder sent out contains a complete set of L A WN C A RE bulletins.