A discussion of the vital problems of lawn making and maintenance O. M. SCOTT & SONS COMPANY - SEEDSMEN - MARYS VILLE, OHIO PUBLISHED SEVERAL TIMES YEARLY BY Vol. V September 1932 No. 5 GOOSE GRASS Other Names—Silver Crab Grass, Wire Grass, Crow-foot Grass. Annual—Propagates Seed Time—July Range—Nearly all of North America. in full sun; worse in Habitat—Lawns by seeds. to October. poor soils. about the same period. Since coming to America this weed has thrived. It is so domesticated that its progeny may now be found in almost every section of the continent. RESEMBLES CRAB GRASS. Goose Grass is similar to Crab Grass in that it does not start growth until hot GOOSE GRASS,, Eleusine Indica. India was the birthplace of Goose Grass, the lawn weed presented in this issue. Probably one hundred and fifty years ago this weed came to our shores. It may have come directly from India or perhaps simultaneously from southern Europe where Goose Grass was traced at weather and it is killed by the first frost. If one examines Goose Grass carefully there will be no danger of confusing it with Crab Grass, but because of the simi- larly formed seed heads the two are sometimes mistaken for each other. The finger-like spikelets are the points of compressed, there are usually similarity. Crab Grass, however, is much finer and has a different habit of growth. Goose Grass grows from clustered fibrous roots, the culms six inches to two feet long are flattened and dull green. From several the base loose and branches. The sheaths are overlapping, smooth but hairy at the throat. The weed is an an- nual and seeds between July and Octo- ber depending upon the climate. Spikes vary from two to eight (a great many with three) and are borne in finger-like projections at the tip of the stalks. The seeds are black and wrinkled. The spike- lets are from one to three inches long (shorter than Crab Grass seed heads) and rather flat, whereas Crab Grass spikelets are more rounded. SOILS WHERE FOUND. In certain countries Goose Grass has been somewhat improved and cultivated to the extent that the seeds have been used in making a rather inferior quality of flour. The fact that it is usually found in poor soils has associated Goose Grass with poor and primitive people. It main- tains that complex by thriving in this country in lawns where the soil is poor and unproductive. HOW DISTRIBUTED. The seeds of Goose Grass are fre- quently found in manure. The use of manure on lawns is almost certain to be followed by the appearance of Goose Grass, Crab Grass and Buckhorn. These weeds have probably in the fields on which the animals have been pastured. The seeds of Goose Grass should not appear in lawn seed but might be found in very inferior grades. flourished HOW CONTROLLED. A few drops of crude carbolic acid squirted into the heart of a tuft with a common oiling can will kill it without de- facing the smoothness of the turf. No damage will be done the surrounding grass because of the small amount of acid used. The acid treatments recom- mended for plantain may also be em- ployed. Goose Grass has a very tough, fibrous root so hand pulling is quite a laborious task. In such cases the As Goose Grass, like Crab Grass, is an annual it can be eliminated from a lawn eventually by preventing the production of seeds. This is accomplished by pull- ing out the young plants in June or July before the seed heads have formed or, in a large lawn, by raking over the in- fested area to pull up the flat, close lying stems so they will be cut by the lawn mower. clippings should be caught and removed to pre- vent scattering the seeds over the lawn. Several years ago tests were conducted at one of the experiment stations and findings were to the effect that feeding Goose Grass infested turf with an acid fertilizer such as Sulfate of Ammonia checked the weed very noticeably. The use of Lime and Nitrate of Soda seemed to make it thrive. Because the repeated use of acid fertilizers may result in a turf condition more undesirable than the presence of Goose Grass we are in- clined this control method. However, it is well to note that the weed most in poor soils. Its growth, therefore, is an indication that the ground should be enriched and the grass fed on a well balanced complete fertilizer. frequently appears to advise against Brown Spots (a BR O WN P A T CH fungus dis- ease) and dead areas in grass caused by worms, beetles, grubs, etc., have been reported in great numbers this summer and fall. The bents are somewhat more susceptible to Brown Patch than other grasses. There are, however, many effec- tive preventives and cures. We have a bulletin on this subject which is available to anyone wishing to become with the control methods. familiar The greens chairman of a nearby golf club phoned us one day that birds had descended upon his greens in great num- ber and were ruining the grass. The greens were in wonderful shape and he thought the birds were simply showing good judgment in selecting such grass to devour. There were worms the ground, of course, and the birds were attracted by them rather than by the turf. An application of Arsenate of Lead soon put the worms out of business and the bird visitation ended. in The activity of beetles, principally the Asiatic varieties, has been observed in many sections. We are always glad to receive specimens of lawn pests of this type for identification. As brown patches are noted in the lawn, it is good precau- tion to apply Arsenate of Lead even be- fore the cause has been definitely estab- lished. (For application instructions see LAWN CARE for June-July, 1932, page 3.) Date of Seeding THE advantages of fall seeding of lawns have been enumerated many times in LAWN CARE. Results from seed- ing at that time are so much better that one wonders why all lawns are not seeded in September or October. Sometimes, however, certain conditions make it impossible to get the ground ready for seeding in early fall. Then the logical question is whether it is better to seed in late fall or defer the work until the following spring. TESTS CONCLUSIVE. The United States Department of Ag- riculture is trying to answer that question in a series of tests being conducted at Arlington Farm near Washington, D. C. Four different types of grass mixtures have been planted during each month of the year beginning in the fall of 1930. Their general results show what we would expect, namely, that the fall plots are by far the best. However, the surprising thing is that plots seeded in December, 1930 and 1931, compare very well with those seeded in early fall. This does not mean that we should wait until Christmas to sow our seed but it does indicate that even winter may be better than spring for sowing lawn seed in some years. Obviously, this would be impracticable in localities having a more severe climate than that at Washington, D. C., although it would be possible in many places during a mild winter like that experienced in 1931-32. ADVANTAGES OF LATE SEEDING. One reason why winter seeding may give better results than spring seeding is because the seed is in the ground ready to sprout as soon as the ground gets warm. If we defer seeding until spring then it is necessary to wait until the ground dries sufficiently so a seed bed can be prepared. Smothering Crab Grass AN Eastern newspaper contained the following item on Crab Grass. It came to us through the courtesy of J. Elmer Stiegler of Wilmington, Dela- ware: "Crab Grass, which does not appear until the middle of the summer, is one of the most troublesome lawn pests. It does not thrive in the shade and may be smothered quite easily by covering it with tar paper or boards. It can then be removed with a sharp toothed garden rake. Other quick growing grass should be sowed immediately in order to help keep out the Crab Grass during the rest of the season. The smothering method is unsightly and not always practical, but effective. If you prefer hand weeding, it should commence as soon as the plants are large enough to pull." "Through the offices of a good friend an attractive binder with its interesting contents came to me. As a result of the I inspirational message of LAWN CARE have decided to remake my lawn, on which I have been sweating and scratch- ing and digging these many years, and with little improvement in appearance." — W A L T ER G. KALT, 534 B e l m o nt A v e ., Detroit, Mich. moving weeds from lawn both by means of chemicals and by the hand pulling method. . . . "For the past three or four years I have found there is nothing that can beat the removal of weeds once and for all, including complete removal of the root, by using an ordinary potato peeler. There are two kinds of peelers. One has a smooth edge and one a saw edge. The one with the smooth edge does the best job and I believe anybody trying this method will find there is nothing that can beat it."—H. M. CHERRY, De- troit, Mich. — Scott Publications Lawns, a small booklet of condensed facts about the making of a new lawn and the improvement of an old one. Bent Lawns, an illustrated booklet which tells how to make and maintain a Creeping Bent lawn. A loose-leaf binder like the above con- taining a full set of LAWN CARE bulle- tins will be sent anywhere in the United States at actual cost of 50 cents, postage paid. These binders may be found in the thousand homes. Husking Pins and Potato Peelers libraries of nearly ten ^ Win Weeding Honors "I greatly appreciate your LAWN CARE. Do you know that an old fashioned curved husking pin is the finest weeding tool in the world? Seedling weeds, espe- cially, simply can't resist it. Mine cost 15c."—CASPER SCHENK, D es M o i n e s, Iowa. "The writer has been a very interested reader of your booklets entitled LAWN CARE and has taken particular note of the various methods suggested for re- Converting four methods of to Creeping Bent, folder explaining remaking and improving an old lawn by using Bent. Lawn Making and Maintenance. Six- ty pages of specific information that will be especially helpful in the building or care of large areas. The Putting Green. An illustrated book telling how to construct and main- tain grass greens. Gratis to greens chair- men, greenkeepers, or any golf club offi- cers. To others at actual cost of 25 cents. There have been twenty-two previous issues of Lawn Care and the following lawn pests have been discussed: Plantain, Crab Grass, Dandelions, Moss, Grubs and Beetles, Chickweed, Buckhorn, Ground Ivy, Yarrow, Earthworms, Heal- all, Ants, Speedwell, Creeping Butter- cup, Sod Web-Worms, Moles, Knot- Grass, Sorrel, Quack-Grass, Spotted Spurge, and Yellow Trefoil. For the com- plete series please allow 10c to cover mailing cost.