We», DETROIT, OCT. 10, 1891. THE HOUSEHOLD-"Supplement. CH [LD’HOOD‘S CH ARMS. I placed my boy in the barber’s chair, To be shorn of his ringlets gay. And soon the wealth of his golden hair On the floor in a circle lay. ’Twas a trifling thing of daily life. And to many unworth a thought— Too small a theme. ’mid the toil and strife. Of this world’s changing lot. But the ringing cut of the cruel shears To my heart-strings caused a pang. F or thEy changed the child of my hopes and fears With the scornful tune they sang. My thoughts were bent on the little cap, And the curls that round it twined. Like golden clasps with which to trap The sunbeam and the wind. No more shall I see those flying curls. As my homeward steps I wend; Another stage of his life nnfurls. Where youth and childhood blend. So when from the chair he stepped at length, He stood with his artless smile. Like Samson shorn of his locks of strength By Delilah’s treacherous smile. Thus. one by one. will vanish away The charms of his childish life, And each bring nearer his manhood's day. With its scenes of toil and strife. God grant that my lease of life may last, Through his changing years of youth; Till the danger-rapids of life are passed, And a Samson stands in truth. —- Walter M. Rogers, in Good Housekéépina. I‘ TEE FASHIONS. ' The bonnet-sof the season are beyond description. The toque, which has been a prime favorite so long, goes to second place, and the little, low-crowned in- finitesimal bonnet, a hybrid between the toque and what we have known as bonnet so long, takes first position; it is “new,” you see. One very reclwrchc (as the milliner assured me) affair con- sisted of a roll of cardinal velvet out- lining a wire frame covered with an open-work pattern in jets, with a cocque’s plume edged in jet at the back, backed by astiff bow of cardinal velvet. A gray hat for a miss had a wide felt brim bound with a ribbon and a soft loose velvet crown which was raised on one side to meet the turnedsup brim, againstiand on which was massed a loose cluster of purple and yellow pansies. This style—felt brim and soft velvet crown—is to be quite fashionable, com- bining as it does the two leading ma- terials for winter millinery. A very pretty bonnet shown was of black velvet with the pointed Marie Stuart front so becomintr to many faces, which was edged with cut jet beads. Jet, it may be said here, is very fashionable on everything this season, especially mil- linery. There are bonnets in open work patterns of finest cut jet, and large coronet-shaped pieces intended for fronts, also bandeaux and crowns to be applied upon velvet. The gold laces which were so popular last season seem to be out of favor entirely this year. Walking hats of black and brown velvet are heavily trimmed with wide ribbons and ostrich tips, also fancy ostrich pompons and impeyan feathers. Birds, 1 am glad to say, are out of style, and though we use plumage no less lavishly at least we are spared the pitiful sight of impaled songsters with glass eyes and rufiied feathers, perched at uncomfortable angles upon a nest of ribbons and lace. Not to mention the sentimental feature,such use of birds has always seemed to me to be incongru- ous, suggestive of a museum, atrifle unwholesome and totally un~beautiful. Some of the hats shown have wide bind- ings of astrachan, and others have shaggy brims and smooth felt crowns in conical shape. We may say briefly that bonnets are very small—mere apologies in jet and feathers; and hats are quite large and very abundantly trimmed. Middle-aged women who wear hats choose the English walking hats, trimmed with a large velvet bow at the back, a jet ornament in front and long ostrich plumes on each side. Ties are wider and shorter than last summer. Two-inch velvet or ribbon is used. and they are pinned with a fancy pin, or fastened under a small bow. A very pretty black velvet toque was edged with a narrow band of cut jet set on the velvet, which was laid in loose folds on the sides. The crown was plain and covered- with a wide band of jet, and where the folds met in front was fixed a large jet ornament. At the back were a few short tips and a loop or two of velvet. It was very stylish and could be duplicated in any color. Flowers are seldom seen on millinery this season, but when used are of velvet. A great many fancy ornaments in plumage, pompous, agriettes, panaches, etc., are worn. Coats and jackets are considerably longer than heretofore; the former are in what is called three-quarter lengths, ‘ while the very short-est la modc jackei covers at least onesthird of the dress skirt. On the other hand, the ‘1ng close-fitting cloaks, which have been worn to entirely conceal the dress. are shortened by at least ten inches. The Muscovite and Russian cloaks are still popular; thesc entirely cover the dress and are worn with capes which fall to the elbow. Capes in an infinite variety are worn, and grow longer with the ad- vancing season. They are high on the shoulders, and have either the high wired collar or are worn with boas of ostrich or cocks’ feathers. These feather boas are seen in great variety, both the long ones and those which tie close round the throat with ribbon strings. They are imitated in cheaper material, and that is a sure sign that their days are numbered. As soon as a thing becomes common and is cheaperr ed so everybody can get it, it is no longer stylish. Jacket collars and revers are faced with fur, mink being "a favorite; mink muffs are carried with them. Sealskin has risen in value since the closed season has been ordered, and other furs will have a chance. Mink jackets and capes are seen in the furriers’ windows, and wild be fashionably worn when snow flies. As before noted, there are no pro- nounced changes in the styles of mak‘ ing dresses. The plain close skirts, with the fullness—what there is of it‘- still massed at the back; the absence of skirt trimming or at most the adcrm ment of the foot of the skirt at front and sides with bands of velvet, passemem terie, ruffles or ruches, and the in- creased length, still obtain. The vel~ vet band is no longer set directly on the edge of the skirt, but is placed an inch above it. On some dresses a narrow velvet panel is seen on one side; some- times wide passementerie is laid half on this, half on the skirt; another style is a row of eight or ten large buttons with simulated buttonholes. The “bell" and “umbrella” skirts are seen, composed of gores, and having a bias scam in the back, but not one woman in five can wear them with grace. They define the figure with startling accuracy. Said a friend in her first skirt of this kind: “I don’t feel like a modest woman in this dress!” Such skirts are lined throughout and worn without a foundation skirt and § ‘ --. a...» ‘3: «Japan: w“ ' ' 4w 1 l x 2 The Household. tith a silk petticoat, which is often a hamre in the landscape when the skirt islifted, asit must be on the street. Plaids are cut so that the front of the skirt is straight and the back bias. The seams of the bell skirt are often out- Iined with gimp, but it is hardly a pretty fashion, and there is no denying that the skirt with the front very ‘ slightly draped, just enough to break by a fold or two the plain outline, and made moderately close-fitting, with a am. or large box-pleat in the back, is the “happy medium” and the most generally becoming style. But if skirts are plain, fancy runs niotin eorsages. Everything is worn; the waist gives character to the gown. The coat, and the coat-skirted basques remain the leading models, but the mtter is becoming terribly hackneyed Coat skirts and frills are in all materials and onall women. consequently it is the fit and the wearer which give the style. Some women—slender women, with slight hips—look well in coat skirts; astout woman‘s figure reminds one of a barn-door in them. But, being in fashion, noone minds a little thing like that. Other corsages are blocked in deep points or battlements, the seams opentothe waist line and the outlines edged with narrow gimp. One of the newest shapes is pointed in front, short bathe hips, with a very long postilion Back, reaching half the length of the dress skirt. Waists for evening dresses are almost invariably cut with mod- erately sharp points front and back; many have surplice folds which make the popular V-shape both front and back; and if one does not wish to dis- close so much of the throat and neck, the V is filled with passementerie sewed together or with a pretty pat- terned lace, fastened into a close collar. Velvet was never more used in com- bination with cloths than this year. Rtrims the skirts; is used for entire ~ sleeves or for very deep elbow cuffs, for sever-sand pocket laps, for coat skirts and girdles, in short, wherever it can be used, except, queerly enough, for vests. These are made by preference on wool dresses, such as cheviots, tweeds, and the rough-surfaced novelties, of smooth-faced cloth. A pretty green Cheviot had: a jacket front with waist- coat of plain green broadcloth, crossing to leave a V-shaped opening at the 31th which was filled in with green Bengaline, with collar of the same. The edges of the vest, which formed a point in front, were braided with gold braid in Greek key pattern; and the jacket had a deep coat collar and revers of green nelvet. A band of velvet underlaid by an inch wide fold of the broadcloth was set down the left side, the fold turning toward the front. Sleeves are still full, loose and long, and high on the shoulder thOugh not so exaggerated as heretofore. The mutton-leg remains the favorite; this its moderately close below the elbow. In trimmings, there are new patterns in gimps and cord passementeries, used for borders. Narrow gimps are much used to form large braiding patterns, scrolls and arabesques, and put upon sleeves and vests in curves and “ curle- ques.” They range from ten to fifty cents a yard. The newest trimmings are the feather edges, at $1 and $1.50 a yard: these are ostrich barbes, ar- ranged on a foundation so they may be used to outline revers and collars. Bands of cocks‘ plumes are $2.15 to $2.75 a yard and seen in black and brown; ostrich feathers are mixed with the pretty iridescent barbes from pea- cock feathers to make showy bands which are used on wraps, or to trim the fronts of corsages. The gaudy me- tallic passementeries worn last year are out of favor this season. BEATRIX. GETTING READY FOR SPRING. Now while our gardens are glorious with a profusion of autumn flowers, let no one forget that this lovely weather will soon change. and if aspring dis- play is desired beds of bulbs must be planted or transplanted, and prepared to meet our expectations. The present month is the time for the work, and do not delay until the last days of it, for these faithful bloomers are impatient of neglect. A good rich top dressing is essential as a finish to insure flowers of rich color and substance. The only plant honestly entitled to the fanciful name of “Snow on the Mountain” is Euphm'bia murginata: it is one of our most vigorous annuals, coming self-sown after the first season’s sowing. It is indigenous west of the Mississippi, and blooms so profusely its snowy appearance suggested its appro- priate pet name. Any good garden soil is all it requires. Florists use lime water usually for white worms; some stick matches in the soil. I prefer a fresh supply of soil and a clean pot. Carbolic acid is not a good application to plants. Plants when in good soil and in good healthful growing condition I consider conducive to health, rather than the reverse. I will add to the Editor's instructions in regard to the gladiolus, that if one has patience to raise plants from the seed found in the flower pods, they are quite sure to get some new varieties as they are not, like the bulblets, sure to duplicate the parent. W'hen grow- ing choice sorts in abundance I have been delighted with my success, and it is very little extra care, no more than the bulblets require. A good gladiolus is worthy of a good price, or time and patience to originate a new variety. Every lover of flowers should pot a few Holland bulbs for winter; they will charm the whole family, and after planting out will continue to bloom every year as long as they live. The last of this month and next is the time to pot them. I have given directions in the HOUSEHOLD in the past, but will cheerfully repeat them if desired. anrox. MRS. M. A. FULLER. __..._...__. CRUELTY TO CHILDREN. Brothers and sisters (mostly sisters), the spirit moves me to speak of some things I saw at the Hillsdale fair. Don‘t be alarmed now, I am not going to talk about the mammoth cabbage-s nor the crazy quilts. It is of other things I will discourse—when I get to them. Mrs. D., Maude and I were the only ladies of the originally planned party who finally boarded the excursion train before the dew was 021’ the clever on the morning of the first of October. Mrs. D. gave one despairing look at my lunch basket and meekly asked how long I intended to stay. Mr. D. wanted to know if I didn‘t think we had better commence to eat “right off." I manag- ed by a little generalship to protect my basket. and about eleven we reached the fair grounds. Saw all there was to be seen except the stock. and the reason we did not see that was because Our male escort disappeared from mortal sight as soon as we had explored the lunch basket and was not seen again until the pangs of hunger. the shades of evening and the near approach of train time drove him to seek his nearest relatives again. The great feature of the fair this year was Vick‘s vegetable show, which was certainly worth seeing. But it is not of that I am going to speak. Then we saw some very fine furniture which seemed so reasonable in price. But that is not what I am going to talk about. I hear some one say (presum- ably a‘“ brethren") “Get to the point, sister; get to the point." All right, I will; but.I must say I saw the loveliest blue satin sofa pillow—hand painted. It certainly was the loveliest thing. There is a man not a thousand miles away, in fact he is out in the second 'field cutting corn, the one with that old straw hat on I have talked so much about, who always supplements a par— ticularly extravagant statement with the remark “speaking after the man- ner of women.” But I don't care: that sofa pillow was a beauty. Well, what I want to talk about is other folks. (A voice from the rear: “Don't doubt it in the least: most women do.”) Will some one please put that brother out? There! now We will go on with our meeting in peace and quietness. I hope. I will commence by remarking there is no place like a big crowd in which to show out dispositions. One‘s true self generally comes to the sur- face at such a time. When tired with walking and seeing, Mrs. D. and I thought we would rest awhile provided we could find aseat. The benches a.l seemed pretty well filled, but at last we spied one, only one end of which was occupied and that by a youngish sort 0- The Household. 8 couple with a small lunch-basket be- tween them which they were preparing toopen. Elated with our luck we sank down upon the seat, whereupon the woman eyed us coldly and suspiciously and remarked “We are going to use all of this seat; we are going to spread our lunch all out." You should have heard the importance of the tone and re- marked the size of the basket to have appreciated it. We didn’t stop to argue the matter, but sufficiently awed moved on. In amoment we came upon another seat which was pretty well filled, but looked as if there would be very com- fortable sitting for one toward one end where sat a rather elderly lady and little girl four or five years old. her grand ~niece, we learned afterward in a burst of confidence. Mrs. D. insisted upon my taking the seat by reason of a slight indisposition. In fact I left home under protest, but then you know how you like to go after you hfi'e planned it so long, even if you do eat too many plums the day before. \‘Vell. I sat do wn, whereupon the sweet-faced grand- aunt looked up at Mrs. D. and said. “ \Vouldn’t you‘like to sit down." " Oh.” said Mrs. D., “I don't think there is room for me." “ Oh yes," the lady re— plied, “' we will make room; you know we have to crowd a little such days as this." Suchawarm, delicious feeling stole over my heart, which a few minutes before had been slowly 00n- gealing. One needed but to look at her and hear her full sweet voice to feel sure she would be willing to crowd on all days. Does a voice ever make any difference with your enjoyment of a person? It does with mine. So many funny things we saw that day. I was much more interested in the display of human nature than in any other de- partment. And the babies! Oh the babiesi Every time I heard a- poor tired baby cry it went through my heart like a knife. So many nursing babies—though really they were better off than those who were able to walk. But I couldn‘t help remarking one thing? There was not a woman there who would have dreamed of going into the ladies’ closet to eat a dinner, but they took their little babies in there to give them their meals. I saw a little girl about two years old who was crying, “Take me home, so tired; want to see papa: take me home; take me home." The mother said, “Shut up; you aint going home; keep still or I will slap you." .The child continued her wailing cry of “ take me home; so tired.” The mother shook her roughly and threatened again to slap her, but could not hush the child’s crying. She shook her again and again. It made me boil. I heard a woman near me who was watching the performance say “Land! aint that young one got spunk? ” I snapped out “ Don‘t that woman lack sense? ” Finally, when I could stand it no longer I went to the woman and asked if her child was sick. “Oh. no,” she said, “she ain’t sick now but she has been, and she's awful cross. I can't do noth- ing with her.” The child cried till she was exhausted and then fell asleep, her breath coming in long heavy sobs. Much relieved. her mother laid her down with a shawl for a pillow and had a good time hearing the “musical genius “ sing and play. But the most hopelessly helpless looking creature I saw was a man car- ryinga five or six months' old“ baby and leading a two year old; both babies crying at the top of their voices and the man looking as if he wanted to cry too. Where his women folks were is more than I know, but he surely needed them mightily, for a more dejected iooking mortal I never gazed upon. Saw another baby about two years old being dragged along almost as fast as its mother could walk. and when the mere toddler stumbled and fell was jerked up again by one arm and dragged along even faster than before. Oh, how I longed to gather up all the tired little creatures and hustle them home and into their cribs! How thankful was I that my own little “ chappie "' was safe at home at his sand heap with his shovel and cart, and his dinner and nap in due season! The lengthening shadows at last warned us to get back to the depot, which we did speedily. After feeling positive we never in all this world would get through the crowd and into the right train, we finally steamed out of Hillsdale and in course of time arrived at home, agreeing we had had a splendid time watching other folks and looking at fall wraps and hats. ALBIOS. EUPHEMIA. ——.O._— GOOD HUSB ANDS. " I've got such a good husband,“ she said in a confidential moment. “ Monday mornings he gets breakfast and I go right to washing. I use pearline: soak the clothes over night, and by eight o’clock the washing is on the line. Breakfast over, and he has gone to his place of business. If the babies are sick he is over them as much as I, and just as anxious. He is always kind and tender of me. so loverlike—I often won- der why he chose me, when he could have had his pick among lots of girls," and she hid her blushing face behind the baby. a lusty little fellow of per- haps eight months. and there were two others not much more than babies. Here was a honest, just tribute to a noble, good fellow, and my heart swelled with pride toward the sweet little woman who was just as much in love with her husband as when he came courting. In a cozy little nest of a home—for he worked on a salary—they were happier and more contented than had they owned millions. “’Tis love that makes the world go round." noth- ing surer under the sun. I don’t really suppose there is any fixed rule whereby a good husband can be measured; if there were we’d have them made to order. They do not spring up in a night like mushrooms; they are made much like the earth‘s strata. layer upon layer, one good quality overlying another, mellowing as the years get into them; and while it may not be true in all cases, it is in a majority. the wife has verv much to do in molding the husband. It is just as she begins. There is no better way to commence the day than with a kiss and a cheery word: it will lighten the heaviest burden. it leaves a pleasant memory. It is the best lubricatin- known to prevent friction in the home machinery. A kiss and cheery word. are so easily given: yet how chary we are of them! The young husband needs more sympathy than he usually receives ——he has never had the least idea how fearfully and wonderfully the modern woman is “ gotten up:" a perfect martyr to backache, headache, feet ache. hys- teria, neuralgia, variability of temper, an odd mixture of sunshine and clouds, smiles and tears. It is something new to him, these periodical attacks. and if he should not immediately fall into spasms don't consider him entirely de- void of sympathy; he may suffer as much mentally as though he voiced it every three minutes. A good husband is particular as to his personal appearance—that is, as far as he can be. No man can folIOw a team through a cloud of dust aftera dry summer fallow and not be con- siderably mussed up; in fact it would be the poorest place in the world to wear a Prince Albert coat and high silk but. It is but natural to suppose that his face would be reeking with perspira- tion, and grimy with dirt, but if the spirit should move him to kiss you and hug that new lawn waist, that is so be~ coming to you. don't for mercy's sake say a word; don‘t show the least reluctance, for in these uncertain times there may come a day you'll want a kiss and a hug and the spirit won‘t move. A husband to be good the year round must have considerable en« couragement, else he'll kick over the traces, faint by the way: he must have fully as much attention lavished upon him as in the days preceding matri< mony. If he likes his meals right on time. study to have them so: find out his favorite dishes and prepare them. Food is best enjoyed where both par- ties like it, it loses half its good quali- ties if one is forced to eat it alone. If he likesa good cigar or will chew oc- casionally on the vile and obnoxiohs weed, why make the best of it: buy him a nice pretty cuspidore, set it handy to his big chair and read him the news— paper while he indulges. By tact an patient and persistent effort maybe you’ll succeed in uprooting the habit, but you never will by tabooing cuspi- dores and scolding about smoke ruin< ing the lace curtains. Good husbands like to seethings n"nw:a—‘nyfiml“ ._ .. . map,“ mmwlm-v .q,