PROCEEDINGS of 1964 TURF CONFERENCE Sponsored b y the and PURDUE UNIVERSITY LAFAYETTE, I N D I A N A March 2 to 4, 1964 PROCEEDINGS OF THE 1964 MIDWEST REGIONAL TURF CONFERENCE The 32 talks included in these Proceedings are condensations of talks by speakers before sections and divisions of the 1964 M, R. T. F. Conference. We appreciated the willingness of the speakers to participate and prepare material for your reading. See Table of Contents next page. Proceedings of each annual Conference since 1948 have been prepared. A limited number of I960, 1962 and 1963 Proceedings are amiable at price below. A copy of these Proceedings were mailed to: 1. The 580 attending the 1964 Midwest Turf Conference. 2. One person of each member organization within the Midwest Regional Turf Foundation not represented at the Conference. 3. List of those in educational activities. Additional copies are available at $ 1.00 each from: W. H. Daniel, Executive Secretary Midwest Regional Turf Foundation Department of Agronomy, Purdue University Lafayette, Indiana Attendance divided by interest as judged by registration card Distribution by States Golf Courses Turf Materials & Supplies Sod Nurseries & Landscape Parks(most have golf courses Industrial Grounds School Grounds Cemeteries Non-Profit & Educational 353 115 44 6 11 11 4 36 Illinois Ohio Indiana Michigan Wisconsin Missouri Kentucky Outside Midwest Purdue 176 127 142 29 Total 580 Total 580 22 21 24 19 20 Check below for special articles suggested for first reference based on your major interest. For Lawns first see Pages 11, 16, 19, 22, 27, 31, 34, 37, 40, 41, 45, 49, 53, 63a Sod Production first see: 16, 17, 19, 31, 33, 34, 35, 37, 39, 40, 45, 49, 51, 53, 63a Golf Courses - All including: 13, 19, 22, 33, 34, 35, 37, 39, 42, 53, 55, 55a, 56, 60. TABLE OF CONTENTS Page 3 3 4 6a 9 An Extension Agent Looks Ahead.................. 11 The Master Plan for .Golf Course Improvement..... 13 If/ 17 19 22 27 Wetting Agents - Their Action and Effects....... 31 Nothing Happens Until.Someone Sells Something... .........Wade Stith 33 34 35 37 39 40 41 42 44 45 h 49 if 51 53 Electric Warming Soi 55a for Turf................. W. H. Daniel Training The Next Man 55 56 56 60 The Cereal Leaf Beetle - Turf Implications...... 63a PRESIDENT'S REPORT Stephen L. Frazier, President, M.R.T.F. Supt., Woodland Country Club, Carmel, Indiana I always look forward to this Midwest Regional Turf Conference, the fellowship seeing old friends - exchanging ideas, but for the most part receiving the benefits of the educational portions of the program. We all need to share the enthusiasm of our speakers and take home with us some of this enthusiasm - the ideas - the stimulation of imagination - and apply what we have learned. There is always new interest in Midwest Regional Turf Foundation, and this is evidenced by the 23 new members joining our Association this year. There are so many people here for the first time, and we welcome you newcomers, and also the many loyal supporters that we see every year. The total membership for 1963 was 362, and all phases of Turf Management are represented in our membership. We continue to progress and we can evaluate this by our well-attended Fall Field Days, and by nearly 600 people attending this Conference. Midwest Regional Turf Foundation has released two grasses this past year. Evansville bentgrass foundation stolons have been released to^growers to produce certified stolons. This is the direct result of five years testing. Midwest zoysia has been released through the Agricultural Alumni Association to produce certified stolons for growers, golf courses and country clubs. Midwest is the result of a ten-year research program - the first new variety for this area • since the release of Meyer in 1950. The turf program has been supported by membership dues, tax funds and facilities by Purdue University, and grants from industry. We canot forget the materials that were donated by so many organizations. We extend our deepest thanks to Dr. Daniel, Bob Seager, technician, and Kaye House, secretary, for their efforts in keeping Midwest Regional Turf Foundation in its high state of excellence. An honor has been bestowed upon our Executive Secretary this past year. He was elected a Fellow in the American Society of Agronomy at Denver in 1963. It has been an honor and a wonderful privilege to serve M.R.T.F. as President, and I want to thank the Board of Directors on behalf of the Foundation for their able assistance through the year, and for their capable handling of the educational sessions during this Conference. Abstract for EXECUTIVE SECRETARY'S REPORT W. H. Daniel, Dept. of Agronomy, Purdue Each Conference and Field Day is a portion of a report for you. Our program is going well - some changes, but gradual enough. Last year we had less graduate students, but expect normal next year. Our undergraduates are doing well - send us all the good ones you can find. Your Board of Directors and Officers have been most kind. I especially appreciate your kindness in providing a gift - through donations - for my boat trip expenses. It was most surprising. Your President mentioned a second highlight of the year for me. I was chosen as one of 22 elected as a Fellow in the American Society of Agronomy for 1963. This recognition for a worker in turf was acknowledgement of your interest. I thank you for making such possible. REFLECTIONS ON AMERICA'S IMAGE ABROAD Harvey F. Baty - Coordinator, International Programs Purdue University, Lafayette, Indiana Americans are an international people. If we look back two or three generations, most of our parents and grandparents will have come from some other country. Few of them were native Americans. Many of us have traveled or worked outside the United States. If, when we go abroad, people are friendly and welcome us, it is not because of anything we have done personally. Someone who looks like us or speaks our language had been there before and make a good relationship. We "cash' in" on it. If, when we go abroad, people are hostile, it is not because of anything we have done, since we will have just arrived. But, someone who looks like us has hurt them and we inherit the resentment. Wherever we go, people have an "image" of America and Americans. What is this image, how is it formed, and how can it be improved? These are the questions I wish to discuss with you. 1. What is the American Image Abroad? It is a composite of many things. It is a cumulative residue of the impacts of all the impressions people have received from or about America and Americans. It is colored by the experience, the national aspirations, hopes, and disappointments of the people in countries abroad. It is distorted out of proportion by the pressures of passing events. It is a changing thing, from country to country and from time to time. ^ - How is the American Image Created? By Americans going abroad. This year, right now, over a million Americans are living or working abroad. Over a million others will go abroad this year as tourists. Everyone of them receives and gives some impressions. Everything they say or do helps to create the image of America in the minds of people in other countries. b) By American movies. Unfortunately, many movies which are not fit for showing in U. S. theaters or on television screens - and many which are shown here find their way abroad. People who see these "western" movies, where the 2gun man with the fast draw is the hero, think that is a picture of American life. They also get the impression that the love stories shown on the screen are typical of American family life. c) By American history. Most people growing up in foreign lands - especially those which have been struggling to be free from colonial rule, have studied American history. Our national struggle has been a source of inspiration for them. They may know more about the Boston Tea Party and Lincoln than we do. They have read about our Revolution and somehow expect us to be with them in theirs« d) By American newspapers, television, et cetera. We do not have to go abroad to make an impression. Our newspapers, picture magazines, such as Look and Life, go abroad to represent us. Just as the unusual and the sensational is played up in our press, so it is abroad - that news and pictures of race tension such as Little Rock, Montgomery, Washington, are sent abroad and given editorial treatment - in most cases to our discredit. The worst things that happen here will become the headlines abroad. e) By foreign students and visitors coming to the United States. This year, over 60,000 students from other countries are studying in the United States. Most of them come from Africa and Asia. Many of them experience hardships, anxiety, discrimination. Their observations and experiences shape their attitudes toward the United States. How can America's image abroad be improved? All of us help to make the American image abroad. All of us reap the benefit or suffer the hurt which comes from it. How can we improve it? I believe we can create a better American image abroad and at the same time have a part in shaping the world of the future toward something that we want to live in. In fact, I think this is going on now. Beyond all contacts, incidental or accidental, with cultures of the world, there is presently coming into being something which is new to this generation and which, in my judgment, has great promise. This new development has been called a "third culture." Nations can live in isolation and ignorance of others - without any contact. But, by education and travel, cultures tend to overlap. OTHER CULTURE The area of overlap may grow to become a "third culture." This year, 300,000 students are studying abroad in countries other than their own. When they go home, they will never be the same again- Many American universities have developed "Area Studies" programs. Their aim is to understand another culture. Many people are going abroad - e.g. in U. N. FAO - as international civil servants. In accepting such employment, they pledge themselves not to promote the interests or advantage of their own country above that of other countries. They do not forget their own country in becoming a part of a new culture, but they become, in a sense, a part of this "third culture" where their concerns and efforts are for mankind. The relationships built in the colonial period were between dominant cultures and subordinate cultures. In this present era of development, the relationships are more of appreciation, understanding, and working with peoples on a basis of mutual respect and equality. In the colonial period, the authority and rank of the administrator (French, British, Spanish) was strong. And even though we Americans were not building colonial empires, we fell into the colonial trap of paternalism. In the "third culture," we work to help indigenous people develop their own institutions to meet their needs. We are no longer the managers. We increase their capacity for authority, responsibility, and management. This demands the growth of a whole new set of attitudes and relationships. Today, there are perhaps 100,000 people in the world who are living a large proportion of their lives in this "third culture" and millions who experience something of it. Their number is increasing at a rapid rate. To some of us, this may appear as a threat to our position in the world. But, I believe it is a good thing and that it will increase. This will not help us to preserve the world "as it was." It will not make everyone love us. But, it will help us to bring a new era which, we hope, will increase the areas of mutual respect, agreement, and cooperation in the world and decrease the areas of distrust, misunderstanding, and strife. I realize that this has little to do with this audience's interest in Turf. But, it does affect our lives and the lives of generations to come. In your industries and in your work you get better products through research. I believe it is possible to apply the same research methodology to the larger human problems of the world and to create better human relationships. Looking back fifty years, who living then would have dared to dream or believe that the technological advances which have come,would be possible? Looking ahead fifty years, is it possible that there is something as far ahead of what we now have as the Boeing 707 is ahead of the horse and buggy? I believe that technological advance will continue, and that this will force us and inspire us to apply the same creative reason to the human and social problems of the world. To create not only a better American image abroad, but a new era in human relationships across cultural barriers, I would like to suggest that we set up somewhere in the world a Research Center for Creative Interaction. That we bring to it the most creative people of the world and charge them to work with intensity in the area of human problems and international relations. They would work for a break through into an era of peace, prosperity, international understanding, and cooperation . Could we not charge them to think ahead and to discover what is possible for mankind? For example: 1) What are the next steps in the evolutionary process? If in the past, we have had human and social evoluation with little conscious human planning, what could happen if man becomes a conscious cooperator in the process? 2) What is the human potential in terms of genetics and how do we realize this potential? How can we increase the quality of life and control the quantity? 3) What is the earth's potential in terms of nutrition and how can we realize this potential? How can we create a world in which no one need lack sustenance? 4) What is the economic potential of the world and how do we release or organize human energies so that human beings in all societies will not suffer from want or waste? Then no one would live in a shack unless he wanted to. 5) What is the potential in the international dimension, in our relations among nations and what needs to happen to realize this potential? How can we make it possible for human beings to plan their lives in confident dedication to the well-being of humanity and not spend their resources of mind, energy, and material in acts of fear, hate, or destruction? 6) What is the incubation period for hatching a great idea? great ideas to be born and to grow in the world? How can we cause Finally, we need to realize that a better world for all mankind can come. No one can give us such a world! It has to be built, and the people who are living in it will have to build it. It must be constructed in our own thoughts, attitudes, patterns of behavior and relationships. Indeed, we must be the world we want! It has to be built into the very fabric of our lives! I believe that such a world is possible and that we know enough to create it. It may be realized in our lifetime - or it may have to wait for future generations. But it will come. When the new day has fully come and men have learned to use the material resources of the earth and their own productive powers for the well-being and not the destruction of mankind, the epochs of history will be revised. The period of the "Dark Ages" may be extended to include our own time. Then the emancipated and enlightened humans of the new earth will look back to the people of today with tenderness and regret that we were so close toa-.great idea that would have transformed our lives, but couldn't quite grasp it. PARLIAMENTARY PROCEDURE Bruce Kendall, Assoc. Prof, Speech Dept., Purdue University, Lafayette, Ind. Most organizations, at one time or another, become discouraged with the amount of time they consume in conducting routine business. Meetings frequently become bogged down by the indecision of a presiding officer who does not understand parliamentary rules of procedure. The confusion is increased if a few members know more about such rules than the president. Frustrated members in this situation are likely to blame the rules themselves. "If we weren't tied down by rules," they say, "we'd get along all right." Actually, if one can guarantee anything about rules of procedure, it is that where officers and members know them, business can be conducted with dispatch. Parliamentary rules are designed for two basic purposes: to insure efficiency in the conduct of meetings; and to safeguard the democratic rights of the membership. The -6a- mere the members of an organization know about the rules under which they should be operating, the closer the group will come to realizing these objectives. My purpose in this paper is to present to you some basic rules of parliamentary procedure to help you improve the conduct of your meetings. First, any organization must decide how formally it wishes to operate. A good rule of thumb is that the larger the membership, the more rigidly the organization should adhere to the rules. With ten to twenty members, an organization could operate more as a committee, striving for unanimity rather than majority rule. With more than twenty members, such informality becomes impossible, and to insure efficient and democratic operation, rules of procedure should be carefully followed. Once an organization has determined its degree of formality, the second rule should be enforced. Unless you intend to operate strictly as a committee, the presiding officer should allow no discussion or debate unless a main motion has been moved and seconded. Unless this rule is followed endless amounts of time can be wasted during a meeting. Without a main motion, discussion can continue without limit, and when it is over, no action can be taken because there is no motion to vote upon. third rule is that any motion of importance, particularly any main motions and amendments should be submitted to the president in writing immediately after they have been made from the floor. Any substantive motion must be specific in wording and should be entered in the minutes. Time will be wasted if the member making the motion is asked to dictate it for the secretary to write down. Above all, no member should ever be allowed to make a short speech which concludes with, "Mr.Chairman, I so move." After debate has been concluded, the time for voting arrives, and the fourth and fifth rules apply. Rule 4. To improve the conduct of meetings is that all motions requiring a simple majority should be voted on by voice. Counting votes consumes much time, and anytime a vote is counted, the count must be entered in the minutes. This time can be saved by having the vote by "aye's and no's." (Never have the negative vote by "the same sign.") The fifth rule, which also applies to voting, is that all votes are computed on the basis of the number of people voting unless the constitution of by-laws specify otherwise (such as for amendments to the constitution of by-laws). In most organizations, no member is required to vote or even to register an abstention. Thus, regardless of the number of members in an organization, if a quorum is present, a vote of two votes for a motion, and one against, would constitute either a majority, or a two-thirds vote. If an organization were to follow these five rules, its operation would be greatly improved. Of course, more knowledge would improve it even more. It is a good idea to have some member who knows parliamentary procedure appointed as parliamentarian to advise the president on procedural matters. In addition, member need to learn as much as possible about the various motions, their purposes, and when they can be used. The following chart, which has the motions arranged from bottom to top in the order of their precedence, is a good place to start learning and has proved to be a help for both president and members in improving the quality of business meetings. TABLE OF TWENTY-FIVE MOST FREQUENTLY USED PARLIAMENTARY MOTIONS* oS HO MOTIONS PURPOSE IV. Privileged Motions (arranged from bottom 25. Adjourn to specific to arrange time of t irne next meeting 24. Adj ourn to dismiss meeting 23. Take a recess do for specific "length 22. Raise a question of to make a request privilege during debate 21. Make a matter of force consideration special order of specified time 20. Call for the orders force consideration of the day of postponed mo tien ¿ H ça ça h aa E-H H H SCQ aa SCO >HaIf} VOTE REQUIRED to top in order of precedence) yes yes no majority no yes no yes yes of time no no no no majority majority no no no decision of chair yes yes yes yes 2/3 no no no no yes decision of chair ! III. Incidental Motions (no order of precedenc e) 19. To appeal a decision to correct or reyes no yes majority yes of the chair verse chairman 18. To call for a diviyes no majority if to correct or reno no sion of the house verse chairman chair desires 17. To raise a point of yes to correct a parno no decision of chair no order. liamentary error 16. To object to to suppress no no 2/3 yes no consideration action 15. To divide motion yes yes no majority to modify motion no 14. To modify or withto modify a no no no majority or unani- no draw a motion mous consent motion 13. To suspend the rules to take action con- yes no no 2/3 no trary to standing rules II. Subsidiary Motions (arranged from bottom to top in ordei of precedence) 12. To rescind yes yes yes majority with to repeal no notice; 2/3 without notice to consider again yes majority 11. To reconsider yes no yes 10. To take from table yes no to consider again no majority no 9. To lay onihe table to defer action yes no no majority no 8. To call for the pre- to force into yes no no 2/3 no vious question immediate vote 7. To limit or extend yes yes no 2/3 to modify freedom no limits of debate of debate 6. To postpone to a to defer action yes yes yes majority no certain time 5. Refer to committee yes yes yes majority no modify a motion 4. Amend an amendment yes no yes majority do no 3. Amend or substitute yes yes yes majority do no 2. Postpone indefinitely suppress action yes majority yes no no Principal Motion I. 1. A main motion introduce business yes yes yes majority *Based on Robert's Rules of Order. Arranged by Leroy T. Laase no THE PICTURES YOU MICE Howard R. Knaus, Ag. Visual Aids, Purdue University Whether a person is a scientist, educator, technician, or laborer, he can use photography to further his cause. It is gratifying to the teacher, for instance, to know that with pictures his information has been conveyed to and received by all of his students in a clear, concise form with no possible chance for misunderstanding. The development of the single lens Reflex camera and the remote control slide projector have made it possible for everyone to make and use his own communication tools. What do we mean by single lens Reflex camera? It is simply that the viewfinder is incorporated with the lens so that we are actually looking and focusing through the lens when lining up our picture. What we see in the viewfinder is exactly what will be in the picture. If the image we see in the viewfinder is sharp, then the picture will be sharp. This type of camera has been on the market for a number of years, but has been expensive. To buy any other type of 35mm camera today is to not take advantage of one of the best features developed by the camera industry. Why? Because, of what it can do for us. For instance, there are many illustrations in magazines that we can readily convert to usable slides by simply taking pictures of them. Inexpensive close-up lenses and the direct viewing and focusing make this possible, Close-up pictures of all types, flowers, grasses, weeds and seeds become a simple procedure with the single lens Reflex camera and inexpensive close-up lenses. There are two main types of shutters available—the focal plane and between the lens. Both have distinct advantages. If most of your pictures are outdoors in natural light and you want a variety of lenses, the focal plane is good. If you take many flash shots, the between the lens type has some advantages. For black and white or larger than 35mm photography, the double lens reflex has become quite popular. They are fine for most work, but are not as good for scientific photography as the single lens reflex, again because viewing and focusing are not accomplished through the taking lens. Single lens reflex cameras using the larger film (2-4-" wide) are still expensive and there are only a few manufacturers making them. I foresee a rapid change from the double lens to the single lens type as soon as the manufacturers can get the costs down. What about filters? The main use of filters today is to change the brightness of one part of the picture in relation to another. Darken the sky for instance so the clouds will show on the print as they do to our eye. The general rule is - to make a subject show lighter on the print - use a filter of the same color as the subject. To darken the subject, use a filter from the other side of the color wheel. Thus, to darken a sky we use a yellow filter, or to darken green grass use a red or orange filter. In general, in black and whim photography on pan film, the yellow, green and red filters are the ones most comr ly used. In color photography it is entirely different. We use filters to match the type of light to the film we are using. Sunlight is more blue than artificial lie* so colored films are made to use with each type of light. When we want to take "outdoor" pictures on film made for artificial light, we must put on a salmon colored conversion filter so the correct color light will be recorded on the film. A blue filter would convert daylight film to artificial light, but is not recommended since the blue filter is quite dense and the exposure must be increased to properly expose the film. To solve the entire problem, use outdoor type film outdoors and a blue flash bulb or strobe light for interior pictures. Speed of the film determines the exposure for any given light situation. Use of an exposure meter to determine the exposure is the surest way to consistent results for proper exposure and good prints or slides. Two general types are in common use. The reflective which measures the light reflected from an object, and the incident type which measures the light source. The incident type is generally preferred, especially for copying and critical work. Manufacturer's instructions should be carefully followed to make use of the features built into the instrument. All good pictures have three essential qualifications: interest or impact, and good composition. good technical quality, What is composition? Composition is a pleasing arrangement of objects, mass, lines, contrasts, and colors to form an harmonious whole. General rules for composing pictures are as follows: For what use are you taking the picture: Pictorial, publicity, educational Record, popular appeal Arrangement and placement of main center of interest: Compact arrangement to cover picture area Center of interest slightly off center Placement, center of interest with regard to background: Avoid conflict of main point of interest with vertical or horizontal lines. Place livestock away from fences, vertical and conflicting diagonal lines. Backgrounds (make them plain): Look beyond the foreground Avoid confusing, cluttered background "Put" background out of focus if conflicting Avoid strong vertical and horizontal lines Place horizon on upper or lower third of picture Keep horizon line level Framing: Use people, trees, buildings, etc. Focusing attention toward center of interest: Try to use pointer, or Use of facing people Facing people: Have people facing into picture; Not facing camera Strong lines: Bending of body Direction of arms Roads, fences, trees Lighting center of interest: Black and white, 45 degrees, front, back Color, flat lighting Shade or cloudy days Film manufacturers are constantly working to provide us with faster, fine grain films to open up new opportunities and possibilities. Kodak has two new color films in Kodachrome X and Ektacolor X; Ansco has three new color films, and the new Agfa film is gaining converts every day. Photography is fun and it can work for you. Put some of this new film and equipment to work and I am sure you will be amply repaid by satisfaction of producing pictures instead of snapshots. AN EXTENSION AGENT LOOKS AHEAD Wilbur L. Bluhm, Graduate Student, Purdue University, Lafayette, Indiana As with many professions, today's County Extension Agent is faced with the task of keeping informed in an age of rapid change. To help him do so, most State Extension Services are granting sabbatical leaves of from 6 to 12 months for study in fields related to the Agent's job. After corresponding with nearly half of all Agricultural Colleges in the U.S., I chose Purdue because of its special study program for County Extension Agents. The "interdisciplinary" program here permits study of agricultural subjects, and others which help the Extension Agent more effectively present information. Thus, I have taken courses in plant physiology, plant pathology, soils, land economics, agricultural policy, statistics, and corrmunications. For the past seven years I have been Urban Extension Agent at Salem, Oregon. I've been responsible for the turf and ornamentals program, working with both homeowners and commercial and professional interests. Ten years ago it was mostly servicing the "flood" of office and telephone calls. These took nearly all of one's time, allowing little opportunity to plan, prepare and conduct necessary meetings, demonstrations and programs. Since then emphasis has shited to "leader training" type programs and to "mass media," and away from individual service. In leader training programs we work closely with organizations and groups of people who serve as "leaders" in passing information along to homeowners. Typical of these are garden centers, lawn and landscape contractors, and service companies, parks and school grounds managers, golf course superintendents, nurserymen, landscape architects, garden clubs, and various professional, civic and social groups. We use mass media—newspapers, radio, television, newsletters, timely mailings, publications, exhibits, etc. — to pass on information to those who want and need it. With leader training and mass media programs, we are directly and indirectly helping many times more people than we could by personal service—phone and office calls and home visits—alone. Upon my return to Oregon, emphasis on leader training and mass media type programs will continue in an effort to "reach" more people. The training here at Purdue will be quite helpful in getting this job done. Many turf activities are planned. Demonstration plots can provide useful information on turfgrass varieties; weed, disease, insect, and rodent control; proper mowing; thatch removal; aerification; and fertility. Meetings and diort-courses will be held for the "leaders," previously mentioned, on many turf topics. Field days provide much useful information. Turf people will be encouraged to participate in turf conferences and field days, such as you are here at Purdue. Comparable programs will be developed for persons interested in ornamentals. In Oregon many problems arise from using less desirable plants, and from a lack of knowledge on how and where to use plants. Programs on ornamentals must emphasize desirable plant use. We would be doing the turf industry a favor, in many cases, if more plantings of trees, shrubs, and groundcovers were encouraged in the home landscape as replacement for some of the grass, The lawn would become a more important part of the landscape then. As such, this smaller lawn area would likely get more attention. It would cease to be just something to cover an expanse of "dirt," often grudgingly cared for. A few problems of the "Urban" Extension Agent have been cited, others inferred. Still others bear some attention. Most Extension workers have a commercial farm orientation. They think, talk, and act in terms of acres, tons, and gallons instead of square feet, pounds and teaspoons—a must in working with homeowners, and with others who work with homeowners. It is not always appreciated that today's homeowner, and the public generally, is concerned with convenience—that price, although important, is relatively less so than formerly. The interests and background of urban people need to be well understood. This field is relatively new to most Extension personnel. Adequate information on turf and ornamentals for those who want and need it is not always available. Other times this information is available, but not in a readily usable form. It must first be interpreted. Information on fertility is an example. The Extension Agent has a wealth of material on this subject, but not always in a form directly applicable. An Extension Agent in this field must adapt himself to interests and needs quite different from those of the farmer. We have learned, developed and used methods of getting information to rural people with acknowledged success. In working with urban people, we're just beginning. He must develop some business acumen and an appreciation for it, if he's to work with garden dealers, nurserymen, and other business people. He must learn to play golf if he is to work with golf course superintendents. He needs to garden and care for a lawn if he is to be of most help to the homeowner. He must.learn the uniqueness of the professions and interests of the people with whom he works. In the future we will be of increasing help to you and your interests. Specialized Extension Agents will be working more in the field of community development. This will involve, among other things, the orderly growth and development of our urban and rural communities. It will be concerned with urban sprawl, renewal, land use, beautification, and a host of other problems and situations. You will be vitally involved in this program when it comes your way. \ Even now your Extension Agent has more to offer than you're probably aware of. He is quite knowledgeable on many matters relating to soil fertility, irrigation, disease and insect control, weed control, and other areas of interest to you. Much of this information can be readily adapted to your turf problems. He is in a position,too, to call on specialized help when you need it. As Extension Agents'become better acquainted with your turf interests, it should be mutual1 helpful. Do what you can toward this end in your county. j THE MASTER PLAN FOR GOLF COURSE IMPROVEMENT Edward Lawrence Packard, Golf Course Architect La Grange, Illinois In every trade and profession, there are always individuals who are perfectly satisfied with the status quo. Many either do not have the knowledge and ability to see any opportunities for improvement, or they do not wish to create any disturbance in the calm, quiet routine in which they are working by suggesting conditions can be improved. In every profession also, there are a small handful of individuals who not only can see opportunities for improving existing conditions, but these individuals also have the desire, the discernment, the temerity, or the audacity, call it what you will, to make an attempt to prove them. The fact that the golf course superintendent's meetings, both regional and national, are so well attended year after year, attests to the fact that an extremely high percentage of all golf course superintendents are genuinely interested in the steady improvement of their courses from year to year. It is a fact, also, that as each superintendent grows in his experience, visits the golf courses of others, observes the ease, or the difficulty with which certain routine maintenance is accomplished, compares maintenance costs, and in general grows in his ability to evaluate the quality of his own maintenance practices, he will begin to see that certain improvements on his own golf course can be made. This brings us then to the question, what does constitute items which can be, and which frequently are the object of an improvement program on an existing golf course? High on the list of items which can result in an improved golf course are items which receive considerable maintenance. These include the size, shape and elevation of tees; the size, shape, contour and drainage of greens; the size, shape and contour of sandtraps; the location and the condition of the edges of any ponds, creeks, or streams on the golf course; the existing condition of the water system; and finally the placement and condition of plant material on the golf course. Let us consider each of these items briefly. In regard to tees, these should be as large as it is possible to make them. It is probably not advisable to recommend the cutting of fine old trees in order to extend tee surfaces. Sometimes moving a tee 50 or 100 feet in one direction or another will enable a new tee of adequate size to be built. Where possible, tees should be at least 7,000 sq.ft. in area. The correct relocation and enlargement of existing tees is one of the easiest and cheapest things which can be done to improve an existing golf course. In regard to greens, all too frequently even brand new greens are constructed with bumps and back slopes which are entirely unmowable except by hand maintenance methods. A good average size for greens is 6,500 sq.ft. In my opinion it is possible to have greens built which are too large. Of course, there are thousands of greens which have been built too small. It is not an easy thing to revise, or remodel a green to enlarge it because it means in many cases reconstructing a good part if not all of the old green. Nevertheless, it is; possible to so add to an old green as to keep the existing surface intact, and to add to this existing surface sufficiently to obtain a green of the proper size. It goes without saying that the surface of all greens should be made to drain and in more than one direction. All undulations of the green and contours of the shoulders should be mild enough so that there is little danger of scalping with mowers. This means that the back slopes and side slopes must be carried out sufficiently far to permit machine mowing, whether it be by means of fairway units, or the more precise mowing of the three unit riding type mower. In the matter of sandtraps for easy maintenance, the trend has been toward milder convolutions of the edges of the traps, and more gentle rise from the bottom of the trap to the top edge. The edge of the sandtraps should be mild enough so that a power mowing unit can follow them without leaving areas which must be mowed by hand. It is also perfectly obvious that in order to be able to maintain sandtraps with power mowing units, that the back slopes and the side slopes of the traps must be gently contoured so that scalping does not occur. In connection with the location of ponds and creeks, not too much change can be done economically. However, the edges of these natural features are often so steep that a ball going over the edge cannot be played and sometimes is difficult to retrieve. In addition, areas of this kind are frequently very difficult to mow properly and to keep maintained in an orderly fashion. If it is possible to gently slope these areas down toward the edge of the normal water level, a much more easily maintained area will result. This will improve the appearance and also reduce the maintenance cost. In regard to the water system of the golf course, this should be as fine a system as the owner can afford. The importance of this item cannot be over-emphasized. Where existing water systems are inadequate, and this means either from the standpoint of the water source, or from the standpoint of the size or condition of the piping, or from the standpoint of the capacity or pressure of the pumping unit, recommendations are definitely in order on the long range improvement plan for rectifying these deficiencies. There is frequently inadequate planting, either from the standpoint of safety, or just from the standpoint of beauty. It is advisable to furnish a detailed planting plan for the replacement of elm trees and for the supplementing of existing plantings by additional new trees, small trees and conifers. The foregoing items, therefore, are some of the considerations of the master improvement plan viewed from the perspective of better maintenance. From the standpoing of better architectural quality, the following items should be given careful consideration. First of all, the general playability of the golf course is a rather broad term. Safety on the golf course means not only as full and complete visibility as possible from the tee through the fairway to the green, but also the relationship of one fairway to another, and of one tee to an adjoining green, or to another tee. Although there are hundreds of blind golf holes in the country in play today, none of these can be characterized as safe. Of course, golfers are under a legal responsibility for their acts if they strike another player with a ball. The cost of moving dirt today is quite economical. New construction, in particular, should never have a blind hole deliberately laid out. Existing blind holes should by all means be scheduled for elimination in the master plan. A fine 18 hole golf course should be laid out on not less than 160 acres of ground, that is usable ground, exclusive of deep ravines, water or other obstacles which cannot be developed into fairways. Reduced acreage for a golf course greatly reduces the safety of the course. This also results in uninteresting back and forth parallel holes, and the consequent loss of interesting, or challenging features to the golfer. Therefore, where additional land is available, the master plan may recommend acquiring areas to spread out the course. Closely related to the acreage of any given golf course is the length of the course. Most players will agree that a middle yardage of 6,500 yards will furnish a challenging round of golf. A course of this kind can be shortened or lengthened by 500 yards. This permits the use of red, white and blue tee markers; thus, spreading the wear on tees, and providing for the short hitters as well as the scratch players. Fairway sandtraps should be placed far enough from the tee so that tee shots by the average golfer will not reach the sandtrap, while at the same time, the shot by the expert player will have to be carefully placed in order to avoid, or to carry the trap. In addition to the very precise location, the number of traps to be used also affects playability. Sandtrap should be situated around greens so as to pose a greater or lesser problem in regard to the length of approach shot to that particular green. Many times a golf course architect is asked to retrap an existing course so as to make it more interesting, but at the same time not to make it more tough. This is one area in the golf course master plan for improvement where the most substantial showing can be made, and for a reasonable cost. Vie have considered how a golf course can be improved from the standpoint of maintenance, architectural quality and safety. Let us now consider briefly a system by which a golf course master improvement plan can be achieved, and the specific items required. The first step in obtaining the information necessary for preparing a master improvement plan is to obtain a vertical aerial photograph of the existing golf course. This photograph should be enlarged to a scale of 1" equals 100'. It is best if the photograph can be a new one. It will then show all of the latest work which has been done on the course and any and all existing conditions. A copy of this vertical, aerial photograph is utilized to produce a base map of the existing condition of the golf course. In other words, a black line print is prepared, showing the exact location of the clubhouse, entrance drive and parking space, features such as swimming pool and bathhouse, and the golf course including tees, fairways, sandtraps, and greens and all existing plant material. This base map is then brought to the golf course, and the entire golf course is carefully inspected by walking from each tee, through each fairway to each green. Careful notes are made in regard to topography, drainage, size and condition of tees, sandtraps, and greens. Notes are especially important in regard to the visility of all sandtraps and greens. In addition to the physical inspection of the golf course, the golf course architect will confer with the owners and with the golf course committee, and with the golf course superintendent in regard to desired changes and revisions. Not until all of this basic existing condition information has been obtained can a proper evaluation be made of the existing course and proposed improvements. Vie now have factual information upon which to base our decisions and our proposals. Therefore, from the information thus compiled, we will now prepare a preliminary master improvement plan, incorporating as many of the improvement features as it is possible to make commensurate with the preservation of valued existing features. This preliminary master improvement plan is now brought to the club for evaluation by the committee and superintendent. From this conference in regard to the preliminary master plan and the suggested changes or revisions to it, will emerge the final drawing of the master improvement plan. This plan will now show on one sheet in light lines the existing location of tees, fairways, greens and sandtraps, and in heavy lines the proposed changes and improvements. A colored rendering of the master improvement plan will be furnished which can be used for presenting the improvement program to the membership. We have now arrived at a point where the total improvements can be tabulated and a cost estimate made for each item. These can then be assigned priority numbers so that certain items can be selected to be done first and others at subsequent periodic time intervals . The specific blueprints for any new greens can now be drawn for any particular hole with the full knowledge that this green will be the proper size, shape, and located in the proper position in relation to the master improvement plan. Design of additional sandtraps, addition of a new or enlargement of an existing pond, changes in size or location of tees, additional tree plantings, can all be specifically provided. Modification in the existing water system, or if needed, a new system can be designed in accordance with the proposed master plan. Getting a program of this kind accepted in your club is not a simple, or easy procedure. Careful ground work must be laid and carefully drawn master improvement plans prepared, then your greens chairman and committee will be thoroughly prepared to furnish effective answers to all members who are concerned with the proposed improvements. Once approved there is absolutely no substitute for complete preparation such as I have outlined. A master plan can protect your schedule and provide effective cont inui ty. RESEARCH REPORT W. H. Daniel, Turf Research, Dept. of Agronomy Purdue University This audience realizes that our turf program has four components: research, teaching, extension and administration. This/travel, speaking, observing, writing, grading tests, lecturing, taking data, maintaining records, writing reports and keeping budget and records straight. It means being busy, but it's my favorite job. I love it and appreciate the chance to work with you* Current work on bluegrass varieties is being pushed very hard. We are going in two directions. We are wanting the close-mowed, the petite for front lawns and fairways. At the other extreme we need the vigorous, the aggresive for roadsides, athletic fields, and hard-wear areas. We have a good start and lots of work to do yet. We have the machinery operating for certified Evansville bentgrass stolons. It takes cooperation of the six producers and five state certification groups to keep the process in order. But, for your protection a system is in use. Do yourself a favor and use the system to assure purity of vegetative strains of Evansville bentgrass. We, with Ag Alumni doing thé merchandising, sold Midwest zoysia to 52 purchasers in 15 states in 1963. Adequate supplies are available in 1964. It will be available from April 1 at $ 4.00 per square foot. Only initial work is being done with a perennial ryegrass, originally observed by Lou Trapp of Dayton Country Club. It is most persistent and looks very encouraging. Currently we are not doing much on Poa annua control. We have repeatedly told our arsenic toxicity story - that bluegrass and bentgrass tolerate arsenic, while Poa annua and crabgrass do not. I am encouraged by the possibility of light (1/2 lb. active, or 1 pint formulation/acre) use of Maleic hydrazide for reducing seedhead formation and excess vigor of Poa annua. Much more research is needed. For years we have had continuing crabgrass control series of about 1000 plots/year. Weekly applications of standard rates proved that 6 weeks are normally available to apply the ten basic formulations now available from eleven chemicals. Recent progress on knotweed control is excellent. Banvel-D at 1/2 to 1 lb. active/acre has given excellent selective control with good grass survival. It should be a boom to athletic and fairway areas. Using repeated liquid Zytron sprays to slectively control nimblewill (muhlenbergia) continues to be the best available. We need more work on creeping bentgrass killing in bluegrass lawn turf. Paraquat seems to be the best chemical to combine with vertical mowing. Don Schuder has done extensive work in Entomology on sodwebworm control. He finds Dieldrin to be a preferred control. Finally we have a spreader for experimental work that does a fine job. Empties completely, feeds uniformly, and by diluting a known volume we get 3 - 4 passes over the plot. Nitrogen testing continues with five companies having experimentáis - mostly soluble N blended into slow deteriorating pellets. Continued work on calcined clays as a part of rootzones is needed. Our earlier data has served as a basis for widespread calcined clay trials and use. More new work is needed. Always we work closely with machinery manufacturers to observe and test to some extent new machinery. Thatch control is getting a good discussion at this Conference. Finally our interest in soil warming under turf is quite genuine. next step for some stadiums and special areas. It's the Research - Yes, briefly I mentioned 16 research areas where we have activity and results. It's our way of working with and for you. REVIEW AND PREVIEW Purdue Stadium W. H. Daniel, Turf Specialist Purdue University In the early part of 1961 Red Maclcey, a personal friend of many of you and Athletic Director at Purdue, asked me to develop an improved stadium turf. Well, two years before (in 1959) I had said "no" to the same request. This time new ideas were available.. These included: vertical slitting, calcined clays, Newport bluegrass for fall vigor and vertical mowing. After spring practice in 1961 we planned to vertical slit, aerify intensely and over seed, but instead of 3 items we had 14 to do. Our subsoiling was too rough on the surface so we: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12 . 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. subsoiled and vertical slit on 36" or 18" centers, top-spread about .5" of calcined clay on surface, roto-tilled twice over, raked and dragged and rolled, and hauled off loosened grass, and seeded on June 1, 1961, and rotary hoed, over the seed and surface spread calcined clay, and kept moist, and got weeds and turf, sprayed to kill sedge and crabgrass 3 times, and overseeded thin spots and kept mowed high, and then vertically mowed closer, and mowed to 1.5" in September, and got wear of games, which sealed them then mud - for vertical slits were roto-tilled/, so put in more vertical slits on 3' centers after season, 18. and spread crushed corncobs - 10 tons on field to aggregate soil and reduce crusting, 19. and got a good turf (2.5"/hr. infiltration at saturation) for 1962 and 1963, 20. then excavated to lower field for 1964. Series of Rootzone Building Steps to be done 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18 . 19. 20. after excavating 8' down slope silty clay subgrade 1% cut tile lines 18" - 24" deep place 4" tile 30' intervals fill trench with pea gravel place 2" sand over pea gravel rip and loosen compacted subsoil back in trucks - spread 6" sandy topsoil subsoil and till to partially mix and remove compaction spread 6" more sandy topsoil and fertilize with 12-4-8, 800# acre and peat (brown coarse) 500 cu.yds. (1") and calcined clay 80 tons on 60,000 sq.ft. (1") and till and disk in and smooth to 1" slope 10" crown center to sidelines and irrigate heavily to water settle and when dry re-slope as needed and sod later fertilize with Ureaform 300 lbs. on 60,000 sq.ft. and use arsenic toxicity to prevent crabgrass and to kill Poa annua that germinated in nursery. We started sod with plugs in May 1963 as alternate rows of Midwest zoysia pluts, and vigorous bluegrass plugs then, later fall overseeded with Merion, Delta, Newport blend. But, we had volunteer Poa annua, so started building arsenic toxicity in September 1963. We would like to install automatic watering as built - not decided yet. We expect to put in vertical slits to remove excess water in late fall of 1964. We expect to put in soil warming cable in spring of 1965 . There's lots to do - it is my hope to do the newest and most modern possible. BASICS IN PLANT PHYSIOLOGY M. R. Teel, Director of Research, American Farm Research Association West Lafayette, Indiana The request for a short lecture on "Basics in Plant Physiology" for this distinguished Conference reflects the changing times. We are moving rapidly from the prescientific to the scientific age. Turf managers are moving their attention from the art to the science of grass management. They recognize the need for a more basic understanding of cell metabolism. In order to discuss "Basics in Plant Physiology" we must strip away the vines and branches which hide the framework of the system in question. We must penetrate to the depth of the cell and examine its components. The most obvious of the cell's interior is the cytoplasm. A slimy substance adhering to the cell wall. In plants there are usually many fluid-filled droplets with distinct membranes called vacuoles. These droplets may be raw material, excretion products, water, or pigments. The vacuoles are thus important to the cell. The nucleus plays an important role in cell activity. It contains the chromosomes — thread-like bodies of protein and nucleic acids intimately associated into complex substances called nucleo-proteins. There are two principle nucleic acids nicknamed DNA and RNA (deoxyribonucleic acid and ribo-nucleic acid) which have attracted scientists in this century. DNA seems to be the director of the operations, and RNA the messenger boy. These acids thus play important roles in cell duplication and inheritance since chromosomes carry the genes. The nucleus is considered to be the control center of the cell, while the cytoplasm is the executive center. However, there is so much interdependence that we should not take this division too seriously; one cannot exist without the other. What is so essential about the cytoplasm? This jell-like substance is highly organized — containing many smaller bodies, variously shaped which perform many essential functions. We cannot discuss all of them, but we should become acquainted with the mitochondria. There are as many as 1,000 per cell. They are in constant motion. Recently Dr. Fernandez Moran, University of Chicago, dedigned a diamond knife so thin and sharp that he could cut human hair into 10,000 longitudinal slices (Science, May 27, 1963). "With this device, he was able to cut a mitochondron in such a manner to expose the inner cavities. Their membrane is a double layer, the inner being greatly folded. The folds extend deeply into the interior. On these folds we find millions of tiny particles resembling small mushrooms on short stalks. These are presume to be packets of enzymes which carry out respiration reactions, releasing energy to the cell. Another particle called the ribosome should be mentioned. It is so small that it appears as a mere dot under the elctron microscope. These bodies are believed to be the principal factories for protein synthesis. Both the mitochondria and ribosomes can be isolated by high speed centrifligation. By adding proper nutrients and raw materials to the suspensions, it is possible to study their roles. There are many other particles which might be mentioned, but due to space and time limitations we shall omit them, and consider briefly how some of the pieces of our puzzle fit together . Life processes start with energy. The sun is the ultimate source. Carbon dioxide is trapped in photosynthesis and stored as sugars and starch. Thus, we have light energy converted to chemical energy. The plant has the unique ability to release this energy slowly ... in a form which cells can use. In this regard there are only minor differences between man and the grass he mows. Both take carbohydrate as a basic material and through a series of reactions involving complex phosphorylation reactions, convert the sugar to a sophisticated substance nicknamed "PEP" (phosphoenolpyruvic acid). This three-carbon sugar derivative is destined to be combusted to carbon dioxide and water in respiration. We are thus dealing with the mitochondria. To the mitochondria, present in practically every cell, flow the necessary raw materials, and from them emerges usable energy slowly - carefully regulated so that heat does not become a dangerous by-product. The slow release of energy results from bonds between carbon atoms being broken one at a time. Without going into thermodynamics, let us trace the path of carbon from PEP to the mitochondria. We note from our simplified scheme that PEP occupies a pivotal position. If the proper nutrients are supplied it is converted to pyruvic acid (pyruvate). With adequate thiamine (Vitamin B^) and magnesium, pyruvate is reduced to a twocarbon fragment called acetate. This fragment is attached to another enzyme and delivered to the family of enzymes which act cooperatively producing the Krebs cycle. In this cycle the acetate is combusted to CC>2, the chief by-product of respiration. Water and heat are also by-products. In order for the mitochondria to accomplish their work they must be healthy. Recent work in Australia with barley seedling root tips shows that they are sensitive to nutrient balance. For example, manufactured materials accumulate within their membranes under a potassium deficiency. Other research shows that their surfaces become encrusted with protein fragments. It appears that we have a new method of studying the influence of fertilizer ratios on plant growth. Most of our knowledge of the mitochondria has come from studies with bacteria and simple plants. Can we extend this knowledge to higher plants? Can we predict metabolic events when we withhold certain essential nutrients from our fertility treatments? It appears that we can. There is evidence that under a potassium deficiency, PEP is shunted preferentially toward oxalacetate .... a reaction external to the mitochondria. When this occurs we should expect asparagine to accumulate under high nitrogen fertility, and malate to accumulate under low nitrogen fertility. The plant fixes COg nonphotosyntheti cally. Would a man suffering from a thiamine deficiency get energy from sugars and starches? Indeed he does not. He'll live on stored fat, but will soon show signs of fatigue. He must get acetate from other sources .... ethyl alcohol often becomes a common source of energy for such people after they once try it. The number of alcoholics which suffer nothing more than a mere thiamine deficiency should be everybody's business. Albert S. Gyorgi, famous biological scientist and Nobel prize winner, wrote Lu O co O H < §£ 1s X ÜJ o o co _J o o ?ÜJ ÜJ <11- LÜ OQ Li_ _l CL 1 CO S ÜJ < CM o O O O i o- the prefatory chapter in the current issue of the Annual Reviews on Biochemistry. He suggests that the difference between the pre-scientific age and the scientific age is well illustrated by the story of the two stones involving Aristotle and Galileo. Aristotle, who lived about 2000 years before Galileo, felt that a large stone would fall through space faster than a small one. It never occurred to him that he could test this reasoning by experimentation. To suggest such a thing would have been an insult. Galileo climbed the "leaning tower" and made history. Later on he discovered how to extend his eyesight by inventing the astronomical telescope. Dr. Gyorgi makes a great issue out of the fact that on the one hand we have a pre-scientific thinker, and on the other we have one of the first modern scientists. One had en humble attitude which forced him to challenge himself by experimentation. Today we need both types of men as never before. We must have some devoted to thinking and some devoted to testing and developing. Each must be an humble man with a realization of our imperfections. TURF STRESS - COOL AND COLD CONDITIONS James B. Beard, Assistant Professor in Crop Science, Michigan State University, E.Lansing, Michigan. With the advent of fall weather, gradual cooling of the earth's atmosphere and soil occurs. This cooler environment results in a slowing down of plant metabolic reactions and growth. During this period from late fall to spring, when soil temperatures are below 40° F., there are a number different causes of turf stress which can result in winterkill. Winterkill is a term encompassing a large number of types and causes of injury. It is used loosely to include any type of injury that occurs during the fall, winter and spring period. These general types include the following: A. Desiccation. This is a condition in which water loss from leaves exceeds water uptake from the roots. This is most common during periods when the soil water is frozen but the above ground portions of the plant are thawed and actively transpiring. Brown dried leaves and crowns are more prominent during open, mild winters, and especially on elevated, exposed sites. B- Heaving. It is not a severe problem in turf compared to field crops. However, it can produce significant injury to newly planted areas where the grass passes through the winter in the seedling stage. In this situation the grass crowns are elevated above the soil and exposed to drying conditions. C* Disease. The most common winter diseases of turfgrasses are pink and grey snow mold. They can cuase severe injury to turf, but are easily prevented by following a wise fungicide program. D. Direct Low Temperature Injury. In this situation either extracellular, or intracellular freezing processes occur which result in fatal injury to the plant cells. This type of injury is common in annual ryegrass and perennial ryegrass in the Midwest. E. Injury common It has States Associated With Ice Sheets, Winterkill associated with ice coverings is in areas where sleet storms predominate and in poorly drained locations. been of major concern in the north central and north eastern United . A number of possible causes can be divided into two major groupings. Type I. The grass is dead at the time of spring thaw. Type II. Grass appears healthy, but subsequently dies. The possible causes of Type I injury include: 1. Oxygen Suffocation Under the Ice Sheet: The respiring plant requires oxygen for maintenance of plant tissue even at extremely low temperatures. The ice sheet could impair oxygen diffusion to the extent that, in time, it might become limiting. 2. Carbon Dioxide Under the Ice Sheet: Even at below-freezing temperatures a minimum respiration rate exists. Thus, it is possible, in time, for killing concentrations of carbon dioxide, or for some similar toxic breakdown product to accumulate. Injury of this type has been reported in Wisconsin on alfalfa. 3. Outward Leaching of Vital Cellular Constituents While Submerged in Water During Thawing: On sunshiny days light rays will be transmitted through the ice and be absorbed by the opaque grass surface. It is possible that these absorbed light rays could heat the grass sufficiently to melt the ice surrounding them. This would result in a condition in which the leaves are incased in water with a heavy ice sheet still existing around them. This condition would be favorable for severe leaching to occur, and has been observed in small grains. 4. Outward Diffusion of Water from Leaves Incased in Ice: When lea.ves are incased in ice the relative concentrations of solutes is higher outside the leaf than internally, due to water existing in the solid phase. This could result in outward diffusion of water from the leaf in an attempt to attain equilibrium. If sufficient water is removed from the leaf, desiccation could occur. However, when the vapor pressures of water and ice are compared it appears that at equilibrium, sufficient water would not be removed to cause plant desiccation . 5. Direct Low Temperature Injury by Freezing Processes to the Cell Protoplasm: This is a mechanical injury to the brittle protoplasm caused by the formation of large ice crystals. This type of injury will be less in plants that are permitted to properly harden through dehydration or reduction in water content. Over-watering, excess fertilization, or any process which stimulates tender growth in the late fall, should favor susceptibility to damage. Possible causes of Type II injury include: 6. Direct Low Temperature Injury by Freezing Processes to Plants which are in a non-hardened State Due to Premature Spring Initiation of Growth: The grass may survive the winter in excellent condition. Subsequently, the weather may turn extremely warm for three or four days, resulting in a premature loss of hardiness and increased hydration within the plant. If this is followed immediately by a severe drop to below-freezing temperatures, direct low temperature injury may occur. 7. Injury to Vital Crown and Root Tissues of the Plant from Mechanical Injury by Ice Crystals: The original injury would be destruction of the cellular protoplasm in the lower crown tissue due to ice crystal formation. Crosssection of the grass crown shows a browning of the lower crown and roots. The grass plant will appear on the surface to be normal. Plants with severely injured crowns may not be capable of producing a new root system fast enough to meet the water uptake requirements of transpiration. Under these conditions the plant will die of desiccation as drier, warm days come. Characterizing The Injury In the spring of 1962 detailed studies of injured turfs in Michigan showed most injury occurred to Poa annua with a minimum of injury observed on the creeping bentgrasses, or Kentucky bluegrasses. The grass appeared healthy and green at the time of spring thaw, but with the advent of higher growing temperatures severe injury occurred. Microscopie examinations of individual plants showed severe injury to the lower portions of Poa annua crowns. The original cause of this injury was destruction of the cellular protoplasm particularly in the vascular bundles of the lower crown tissue due to ice crystal formation. Causal Studies In the fall of 1962 studies were initiated at Michigan State University to determine the actual cause or causes of winter injury associated with ice sheets. Common Kentucky bluegrass, Toronto creeping bentgrass and Poa annua were permitted to harden naturally in the field. On November 26 four inch plugs were collected and placed in wax-coated cartons. Five treatments were applied. a. Flooding followed by freezing. The treatment was designed to simulate conditions of a heavy rain and the accompanying flooding which was followed by immediate freezing. The resulting ice cover was 1/2 inch thick. b. Freezing then layering with ice. This represented conditions of a freezing sleet storm which gradually produced a 1/2 inch thick ice layer over the frozen turf and soil. c. Freezing and layering with ice over snow. One-third inch of snow was applied to the frozen plug followed by 1/2 inch of ice. d. Freezing in an ice block. The vegetation was sealed in an ice block by completely submerging the carton containing the grass plug in a gallon container of water and freezing. e. Submerged in water. The carton containing the grass plug was submerged in one gallon of water and held at 35° F. rather than freezing as in the above treatment. The first four treatments were held in a 25° F. cold chamber for the duration of the experiments while treatment 5 was held at 35° F. At fifteen day intervals, during the 90 day period, replicated samples from each variety and treatment were removed from the chamber, thawed, placed in a 75° F. growth chamber, and evaluated for injury. Results of this study showed bentgrass to be highly resistant to the three types of ice cover for the 90 day duration of the experiment. A significant amount of injury was produced by ice sheets on annual bluegrass and Ky. bluegrass from the 75th to 90th days, but exceeded 50% in only one instance. Where injury had occurred in the field in association with ice sheets complete kill has usually resulted, while in this study complete kill was not even approached by the various types of ice cover ings during the 90 day period. The increasing injury from the 75th to 90th days to Ky. bluegrass and annual bluegrass indicates that oxygen suffocation, or toxic accumu lation may produce more severe injury from periods of ice coverage longer than 90 days. However, under field conditions ice coverings in excess of 60 days are rare. In addition, no significant injury was produced from submergence in water, indicating that outward leaching of cellular constituents into the water was of no importance at near freezing temperatures , Table I. Survival of Grasses after having been Subjected to Five Treatments. Treatment observation days Observed after flood,then freeze(25°F ) 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 - 30 45 60 75 90 Freeze in ice block (25°F) Bentgrass 100 100 100 95 Submerge in water (35°F; % 100 100 30 10 100 100 100 100 60 0 0 0 0 100 90 90 85 80 100 0 0 0 0 100 100 100 95 90 Bluegrass 100 100 100 100 75 100 100 95 70 40 Table III. 15 30 60 75 90 Freeze then layer with ice over snow (25°F) % 30 60 75 90 Table II. Freeze then layer with ice (25° F) 100 100 100 90 75 Poa annua 100 100 100 90 50 100 100 85 60 50 100 100 100 98 95 These results suggest that certain combinations of freezing and thawing, especially in association with high tissue moisture contents during the thawing of ice covers, may be of more importance in winter injury of turfgrasses than the more direct effects of ice sheets, such as oxygen suffociation, or toxic accumulations. Factors in Freezing Injury Under field conditions the grass plant can survive winter conditions as long as the vital meristerratic tissue of the crown is not injured. Severe injury can occur to the leaf tissue, but it is of no great consequence. Much kill occurs during periods of freezing and thawing when the grass plant is in a reduced state of hardiness. It is caused by destructive freezing processes within the plant. Six factors control the frost killing temperature in grasses. 1. Degree of plant hardiness. A hardy plant is one which is in a reduced state of hydration, or water content. The processes occurring within the plant during hardening include a reduction in growth, a conversion of insoluble carbohydrates to soluble sugars, an alteration of the proteins, and a subsequent reduction in the water content. 2. Rate of freezing, Killing may occur at a higher temperature if freezing is rapid rather than gradual. 3. Rate of thawing. Greater kill occurs if thawing is rapid. 4. Length of time frozen. Greater kill may occur after long continued freezing. 5. Number of times frozen. Kill may occur after two or more freezings at a temperature which fails to produce injury after one freezing. However, repeated freezing and thawing does not always cause injury. 6. Post-thawing treatment. Kill may increase after thawing if the plant is exposed to unfavorable conditions, particularly drying. Death may not occur' until days, or even weeks after thawing. Management Factors in Freezing Injury Bentgrasses can survive temperatures 5 to 10° F. lower than Poa annua. In addition, they are more resistant to injury from ice covers. Other factors which increase the chance of injury include: Poor surface drainage. It has been observed that where concentrations of water occur kill is greater. Also, removal of ice sheets from putting greens has reduced kill. ^• Poor internal soil drainage. It has been noted that killiis greatly reduced where the cups were most recently changed and on newly constructed greens. Kill was most frequent on the heavily compacted areas. Here again poor internal soil drainage impairs removal of water from the immediate area of the plant cro\m; thus, increasing the hydration level and the chance of kill. 3. Excessive thatch. Thatch, where excessive, elevates the vital plant crown above the soil. In this condition theplant crown is subjected to much lower temperatures than if it were in the soil, Also, thatch holds excess moisture near surface. 4. Potassium deficiency. It has been reported on a number of crops that potassium increases the winter hardening characteristics, including the grasses. 5. Close mowing in late fall. Individuals who permitted their fairway turfs to grow some during late fall noted less injury. This practice may aid proper hardening of the grass plant through accumulation of carbohydrates as well as serving as a protective mulch. 6. Late fall nitrogen fertilization. Late fall fertilization at temperatures which permit grass growth will stimulate late vegetative production and in turn reduce the level of hardiness through increases in the plant water content. 7. Premature spring nitrogen fertilization. Applications of nitrogen fertilizer too early in the spring will stimulate vegetative production; thus, increasing the chance of kill should a severe, late freeze occur. It will also adversely affect the plant's survival should it's root system be severely injured by earlier freezing processes. Excessive late fall watering. Have adequate, but not excessive soil moisture. Additional research is needed to clarify the conditions which do produce injury to bentgrasses and thus assist in completing our understanding of winterkill causes in turfgrasses. WETTING AGENTS - THEIR ACTION & EFFECTS Robert Moore, Pres., Aquatrols Corp. of America, Camden, New Jersey This opportunity to explain the action and effects of soil wetting agents should tell what a wetting agent is, some of the differences between them, and how they affect water in soil. A wetting agent is a surfactant — a peculiar group of materials that are very active at surfaces (1). In this group are detergents, emulsifiers, and, of course, wetting agents. Their difference is primarily moleeular weight and chemical structure - much like a Chiquaqua and a St. Bernard are quite different even though they are both of the canine family. One very important difference in these materials is that they can be ionic, or non-ionic. The original research showed that non-ionic materials were preferred because of their safety to living plant materials and micro-organisms. As an example, many ionic materials are used as scouring compounds and germicides, and others are very toxic to plants. The non-ionic wetting agents usually consist of an alkyl, and an aryl group of differing molecular weights, either as an alcohol, an ester, or an ether. These materials act in such a way that part of the molecule is water soluble and part is water insoluble. This strange behavior causes the attractive forces of water, which are exceptionally large, to be tremendously reduced. A few thousandth of one percent will reduce these forces by more than 607o. To first explain their action in and on sp^^r^iet us look at a flat surface with a drop of water standing on it. The attractive forces of water tend to pull it up into a ball. We've all seen this on the leaves of our grass. A wetting agent lowers these forces, and increases (if the insoluble portion is correctly chosen) the spreading attraction of the water over the surface (2). Now let us look at a small pore in the soil - untreated soil that is! We will see that the attractive forces of water will cause a bridging over these pores and inhibit downward or sideward movement. It then becomes necessary to increase the weight of water (fillinBythe large pores or saturating of the soil) before enough pressure is created to rupture this tension and force the water through the pore. / j What happens in treated soil? With very little attractive force, bridging does not occur and the water readily wets the sides of the pore and moves downward and sideward without saturating. Data from Penn State University (3) shows that water passed through the entire profile at field capacity in one hour in a loam soil treated with a blended soil wetting agent. In contrast, the untreated soil was wetted to only one-third its depth and was above field capacity in this limited area After 80 hours this untreated soil still had excess water now located in its lower profile due to a perched water table effect. So much for the action of soil wetting agents. Let's have a look at their effects! Recent work from Texas A & M ( 4 ) bears out that there are vast differences in commercially available x^etting agents. Some materials were only effective for one irrigation; some only worked in one soil; some didn't work at all. What is desired is a material that lasts for many irrigations and works in all soils and soil mixtures. The improved infiltration and movement through treated soils contrasted with water backing up in untreated soils reduces infiltration, and decreases the per centage penetrating with time. Core samples show this effect on treated and untreated halves of a green. A picture taken the day after irrigation showed better and more wetting. Note the depth and uniformity of moisture in this core from the treated area (15 inches versus about T?r inches). Infiltration alone is not the answer. Letey of U.C.L.A. (5) pointed out: " the soil treated with the (soil) wetting agent became wet much more uniformly throughout the entire core compared to the untreated soil in which moisture moved through in channels rather than in a uniform pattern." In this slide we see deep but very channelled wetting on the untreated half of another green, as compared to the deep and uniform wetting of the treated half. Infiltration was good, but uniformity was poor without the soil wetting agent. These drier areas can lead to poorer roots and localized drying, or disease under times of stress. But once again infiltration and uniformity are not the complete answer. Soils treated with a blended non-ionic wetting agent hold water at a much lower tension. Another paper from Texas A & M (6) showed moisture content versus tension in the soil. The area under the curve represents the energy the plant must exert to obtain water (and, therefore, nutrients) from the soil. We feel that this conservation of energy is related to some of the cell structure improvements in the plant leaves that you'll see a little later. The immediate andcfefinite benefit is an increase in the time between irrigations. Penn State (7) and Cornell (8) data with tension blocks showed a 100% increase possible — we suggest only a 50% increase. In a year's time these lower tensions can save considerable water and labor (generally estimated at 30%>). So far we have seen an improvement in the infiltration, transport, uniformity, and availability of moisture in soils treated with a soil wetting agent. Let us now go to the recent work done at Yale University by Harry Meusel (9). This work studied the effects that soil wetting agents, watering practices, and fertilizers had on the wilting, appearance, internal cell structure, and stomatal openings of Poa annua. A color slide from this work shows the pots from one of the replicas. A closeup showing the more compact growth and slightly better color with the wetting agent is shown in the next slide. Minus "W" means no wetting agent - the one refers to infrequent watering (once a week) and the N-l refers to one pound of added nitrogen per month. A top view even more clearly showed the good tight turf and darker color in the wetting agent treated soils. Incidentally, these tests were conducted using a mixture of sand and vermienlite in an effort to avoid introducing added variables from the soil. These treatments were all allowed to naturally wilt. General conclusions from this work showed that frequent watering (6 times a week), representative of a rainy period, increases wilting. Fertilization at this time aggrevates the situation. The use of wetting agents gave a very significant increase in resistance to wilting. You may wonder at the length of the grass. The grass was clipped at 1/2 inch twice weekly for 12 weeks, and then allowed to grow for 8 days. The wilting characteristics of these grasses was also checked in a wilting chamber where effects of light, humidity, temperature, and air movement were studied. The order of wilting was verified with those that were allowed to die naturally, ie., 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Frequent watering and fertilizer Frequent watering Frequent watering, fertilizer, and wetting agent Infrequent watering Infrequent watering and fertilizer Frequent watering and wetting agent Light watering, fertilizer and wetting agent Light watering and wetting agent It is evident again that frequent watering, or a rainy period, increases the susceptibility to wilt, and that fertilizer tends to aggrevate the situation. The soil wetting agent, on the other hand, has the effect of slowing wilt under all conditions . From each set of pots of grass, blades were picked at random before the wilting test for leaf impressions and cross sectional studies. By studying the cell structure of the grass blades under the microscope, it became evident as to why the plants reacted as they did. We will now look at a series of these cross sectional slides. The first slide shows infrequent watering, no added fertilizer, and no wetting agent. We see a very compact cell structure, very little intercellular air space (about 1%) and small epidermal cells. Next slide shows the cross section of frequently watered grass, no fertilizer, no wetting agent. Note the less compact cell structure, the increase in intercellular air space ( 2 0 to 307o) and the larger epidermal cells. The final slide in this group shows the frequently watered grass, plus fertilizer, but no wetting agent. Note the very poor cell structure, large intercellular air space (50 to 70%), and large epidermal cells. Actually, these mesophyll cells were so weak that many were torn by the microtone blade. Try to remember these pictures as we now move to the next group. The infrequently watered grass, with no added fertilizer but with wetting agent in the soil, gave the same good looking compact cross section, with very little intercellular air space {1%) . Though the cellular structures were the same, the soil wetting agent increased the time before wilting by 100%. This is due to the low tension and more available (lower energies) water that was discussed earlier. The next slide shows the cross section for frequent watering, no added fertilizer, but with the wetting agent. Note the continued good compact cell structure, almost no increase in air space (5 to 10?o) and fair epidermal cells. The final slide of this group shows the frequently watered grass, plus fertilizer, plus the soil wetting agent. Note that we have lost only a little of our cell structure. The mesophyll cells are still quite turgid, little or riot-fearing is evident. This extra turgidity of the cells was very evident in all samples of grass where the wetting agent was used. Again, intercellular air space has increased, but only to 20 - 30%* The next four slides show these same points again, but at a higher magnification. Here we see the weak, easily torn cells and large air space for frequent water ing , plus fertilizer and no wetting agent. Next, we see the same, but with the wett ing agent and we see more turgid cells, less air space, better defined epidermal layer and a very definite improvement in cutin layer. Next is infrequent watering, plus fertilizer, and no wetting agent. With the soil wetting agent we again note a more turgid cell structure and a heavier cutin layer. This opening here in the epidermal layer is a stomate, which brings us to the closing part of our story. As you know, or may have surmised by this time, water is lot from the mesophyll cells into the intercellular air space (hence the desire to keep this at a minimum) and then evaporates from the blade of grass through a mouth-like opening called the stomata. Leaf impressions of the underside of the grass blade from frequently watered shows large size epidermal cells with respect to the stomata. Impressions of infrequently watered grass show stomata of the same size, but the epidermal cells are more compact — actually twice as many per stomata. Fertilizer had no effect on this ratio. The wetting agent tended only slightly to further increase the number of epidermal cells per stomata (a move in the direction of decreasing wilt). A chemical control of this stomatal opening was recently found. On an unirrigated fairway in July, after 25 days of no rain, the Poa has gone out, the bluegrass is going dormant, the fescue has stopped growing. On the treated half grass still had to be mowed. In closing, I would like to summarize by listing the following points: 1. Soil wetting agents lower the tensions of water and permit a more rapid and more uniform infiltration, transport, and drainage. 2. Soil wetting agents lower the soil moisture tension and, thereby, increase the availability of water and nutrients. 3. Lower tensions decrease the frequency of watering; and less frequent waterings improve the wilt resistance of grasses. 4. Soil wetting agents decrease the intercellular air space in grass, and, thereby improve the wilt resistance of the grass. 5. It is significant to note that the poorest grass wilting and cell structurewise was the second best looking grass. The best grass was grown with infrequent waterings, added nitrogen, and soil wetting agents. References (1) Covey, W. G., Jr., Bloodworth, M.E. — Some Effects of Surfactants on Agricultural Soils 1 and 2. Texas A. & M. MP 529, July, 1961. (2) Letey, J., Pelishek, R.E., Osborn, J. — Wetting Agents, California Agriculture October 1961. (3) Nuss, J. Jr. — The Affect of a Non-Ionic Wetting Agent on Rooting and Root Development in Selected Species. Master thesis Penn State Univ., December, 1962. (4) MLstry, P.D., Bloodworth, M.E. - The Effect of Surface-Active Compounds on the Suppression of Water Evaporation From Soils. Texas A & M, August, 1963. (5) Pelishek, R.E., Osborn, J., Letey, J. — The Effect of Wetting Agents on Infiltration. Soil Science Soc. of Am. Proceedings, Vol. 26, Pages 595-598, 1962. (6) Law, J. P. - The Effect of Fatty Alcohol and a Non-Ionic Surfactant on Soil Moisture Evaporation in a Controlled Environment. Agronomy Abstracts (Denver, Colo.) Sept., 1963. (7) Lamphier, F. — Unpublished Student problem. (8) Boodley, J. — Unpublished student problem. (9) Meusel, H. - What Makes Grass Wilt. Paper presented at the 35th International Turfgrass Conference and Show, February 1964, PhilacSphia, Pa. SEED - A CHANGING STORY Gager T. Vaughan, Pres., Vaughan's Seed Co, Downers Grove, Illinois A few years ago I spoke to this group on the subject of the supply and prices of the various turf seeds. As you know, price of seed is higher in 1964. It goes without saying that if the supply or crop is poor that the prices will be higher, and if in surplus they will be lower than a year ago, but in either case there is not much you can do about it. It may be nice to know why exactly, but you probably won't remember the production figures anyway. And you will be pretty safe if you tell your Grounds Chairman that you are paying higher prices than last year for seed because the crop was poor. And, if prices are lower it's because you are a good buyer and shopped around and saved the club money. What I thought might be of interest to you was the changing of production areas, varieties and specifications of seed that you might purchase. First of all, let's take the most famous of all grasses, Kentucky bluegrass. It was only some 30 years ago that almost all of the seed came out of a small region around Lexington, Kentucky from pastures that were let go to seed. Seed was stripped, cured in drying yards and threshed and then sent to cleaning mills. Purity of this seed generally ran around 80% with germination of 70% and a weed content of 1/2 to 1%. I believe it was in the late 30's that harvesting started to move into the Iowa, Missouri and Nebraska area, and it wasn't long before that region dominated the production because of generally higher yields. The Midwest regions have yielded up to 40 million pounds of bluegrass seed per year. In recent years much of this area has been declining in production, and the main production in the late 40's and early 50's moved into South Dakota, North Dakota, Minnesota and surrounding areas. Here the seed was generally heavier in weight and generally of higher purities, and by this time a purity of 8570and germination of 75% was considered standard seed. The big problem in Midwest production has been the tremendous variation in production with figures on production varying anywhere from 2 million to 40 million pounds in different years, and you can, of course, see why we have had quite some gyrations in seed prices from year to year. The yield on seed from pastures in the Midwest generally averaged only around 50 lbs. per acre, so the cost of gathering this seed is relatively high in labor cost. With the advent of new varieties of bluegrass it was necessary to produce seed on land that had had no bluegrass grown on the land, so, of course, it was necessary to find new areas. This is how the West Coast, particularly Oregon and Washington, got into the bluegrass business. The first large acreage started with Merion bluegrass and yields in the Northwest have averaged around 250 lbs. per acre. Instead of a by-product of a pasture, seed of bluegrass in the West is generally grown in rows and cultivated as are most crops. In this manner weed content is generally much lower for West Coast grown seeds. Also, because of special handling, germination is generally higher - anywhere from 807o to 907> with an average of most varieties at around 857>. There are now, of course, many new varieties being grown on the West Coast and production has been estimated this year at around 1 2 to 1 5 million pounds with a larger acreage coming up next year. g The heaviest/producer at the present time is the variety Newport on which a thousand pound per acre yield is not uncommon compared to, as I said previously, a 50 lb. per acre yield in the Midwest. I believe you can see where the production is going to end up unless something unforeseen in the way of diseases or insects shows up in the next few years. Because of the weather conditions and more moisture out West, in these regions production is much more stable on the whole, so we will probably not have as wild gyrations in price as we have had in the past. Because of the way the seed is grown the standard seed coming off the cleaning mills generally runs to a purity of 9 5 to 9 8 7 o . Withso.much seed coming from these regions the difference in price between 857o purity and 987o purity has narrowed down considerably in recent years, and I predict that before not too ong the standard purity on bluegrass, except Merion which is much harder to clean and by its nature lighter in bushel weight, will be 987o with a germination of 807o or better in comparison to our present standard of 857o purity and 757> germination. Actually today the best buys in bluegrass are the higher purities. To find which are the best buys you should use the pure live seed basis of figuring, i.e., multiplying the purity times the germination, and then using that old algebraic formula — For instance, if an 8 5 purity and 7 5 germination bluegrass is offered at $ 4 5 . 0 0 per 1 0 0 lbs., it has a pure live percentage of roughly 647o ( 8 5 x 7 5 = 647o) . Seed of 9 8 % purity, 807o germination has a pure live seed content of 787o ( 9 8 x 8 0 = 7 8 7 o ) > Then, if you use that old formula most of you I'm sure rememb^. i.e., if 647> seed is worth $ 4 5 . 0 0 , then 787o seed is worth X - ( 6 4 : 4 5 = 78:X), / 6 4 X = 3 5 1 0 and X = § 5 4 . 8 0 . In other words, the higher purity seed is worth about $ 9 . 8 0 more per 1 0 0 than the lower purity seed. Today you canbuy this higher purity at less than that spread - generally at not more than Cp 6 . 0 0 per 1 0 0 lbs. You will also generally receive a much lower weed content and stronger seedlings in the higher purity seed. Now going back a step, while the West Coast was building up in production, we also had a new factor on the market - European production. Production in Europe rose drastically because of low production costs and high yields in Holland and Denmark. This year these countries will export to the United States close to 1 5 million pounds of seed. Generally this seed runs from 8 5 to 907o purity and 8 0 to 857o germination. We have one or possibly two main problems with European production and this is the problem of annual bluegrass with both the Dutch and Danish seed, and Poa trivialis with the Danish seed. There are also some areas on the West Coast where annual bluegrass is a problem, but in most areas it is not too serious as yet. Frankly we need more test work before saying how serious a problem a 1 / 4 of l / 2 7 o of annual bluegrass in a seed is. There are those that argue that Merion, or Kentucky bluegrass will crowd it out in average lawns, and those that argue that the amount of Poa annua seeds already in the soil are so profuse that a little more won't hurt. I<'11 let Dr. Daniel answer this one for you. If you want seed without it you should so specify when ordering. In most states the analysis will have determined if Poa annua is present, but the label will not show the presence of Poa annua because it is not recognized by law as a noxious weed and doesn't have to be listed. Even Blue Tag Merion can be loaded with Poa annua as it is not noxious. If you want seed without it you would have to specify Blue Tag without Poa annua, or bent, and insist on analysis. Sod growers and large purchase landscapers may be particularly interested in pure seed stocks for use as overseeding on infested golf courses. What varieites of bluegrass will finally dominate the market is too early to say at present as it takes many years of testing to be sure, but there are many varieties coming on the market. Probably only 1 in 100 will get very far and most will fall by the wayside. Currently several turf researchers recommend a blend of bluegrasses. Our Company and several others blend Merion, Newport and Delta; plus maybe Park, common, or private varieties. As far as other turf seeds are concerned, the changes have not been so dramatic as with bluegrasses. The much of the there seems tainly room biggest change in production has occurred with Creeping Red Fescue as West Coast production has gradually switched to Pennlawn fescue. So far to be nothing coming along to challenge Pennlawn, although there is cerfor improvement here. Penncross bent, has, of course, increased greatly in production this last year, and the price at present is the lowest we have seen, so its use will undoubtedly increase. As far as the ryegrasses are concerned, there are a few new varieties coming on the market and Dr. Daniel will have to appraise you of their qualities from time to time. NOTHING HAPPENS UNTIL SOMEONE SELLS SOMETHING Wade Stith, Manager, Lynde & Rowsey Nursery Muskogee,Oklahoma For several years our good friend, Dr. Bill Dnaiel, and I have visited together at turf meetings over much of the U.S. He has asked me to speak on this program about some of my experiences of trying to sell the ideas, programs and systems for turf improvement by vegetatively planting new grasses. We find most people want a turnkey job. They feel they need a guarantee. Often they have failed in their own attempts to plant grasses. Many times undesirable grass selections have been planted. And, they want to have quick results. In selling an improvement program much time is involved. Repeated calls must be made. Individuals of the board must be sold, and sometime well-meaning club members can "sure muddy the water." During the planting there is much phone calling and hand-holding necessary, and as a manager it is very frustrating to have planting jobs sold and then be unable to complete work in a satisfactory manner. In our experience Bermuda is least difficult to transport. Bemtgras is quite hazardous. Often for our work the bid seems high. Often there are no specifications which are common knowledge to those purchasing and those installing. Nevertheless, all of these problems have led to many satisfcying experiences. It has not been easy to take the ideas available from research, to develop your own equipment, and to incorporate these into a contract production program for the varying conditions found on golf course. There have been outstanding successes. We find we must seek business over a wide area because of the special nature of our contract planting. Again may I say, nothing happens until someone sells something. NITROGEN: YESTERDAY AND TODAY H. B. Musser, Professor Emeritus, Penna. State Univ. Executive Director, The Pennsylvania Turfgrass Council The importance of nitrogen in the economy of turfgrass management demarcb that every possible effort be made by those who must use it, not only to understand its function and use as a fertilizer, but also to be alert to every development which may affect the fertilizer program that has been adopted. Recognition of the need for a systematic program for the use of nitrogen on turf is evidenced by published observations and reports of critical tests over half a century. The earlier efforts were confined almost entirely to the use of a limited number of materials, most of which contained nitrogen in a soluble, quickly available form. Because of the quick response of grass to such materials, the practical problems in using them, and the almost total lack of critical studies of their effects, wide variations occurred in early recommendations and programs advocated for their application. Recognition of the difficulties and limitations involved in the use of these materials stimulated a continuing search for products better adapted to turf production. As a result of careful observations and interpretations of performance under practical conditions, the natural organics (seed meals, manures and processed sewage sludge: came to be recognized at an early date, as valuable additions to the group of materials available as sources of nitrogen. The development of the Ureaform plastics, following the 2nd World War, made available a third class of materials which differed in certain characteristics from those used in the past. This created added problems in attempting to devise good programs for nitrogen use. And, it further emphasized the need for critical studies of the characteristics and best methods of handling the various materials, and stimulated the development of projects at Agricultural Experiment Stations and other research institutions to obtain the needed information on them. The progress and accomplishments of these efforts are illustrated in the accumulated results of 5 series of experiments conducted at the Pennsylvania Agricultural Experiment Station over a 10 year period. These studies, together with similar ones at other places, have provided much needed basic information on the response of turf to the various forms of nitrogen and have helped to provide a better understanding of how they can be used most efficiently. Today's most effective programs for the use of nitrogen on turfgrass recognize the basic differences in the total nitrogen content of different products, the rate at which it normally becomes available from each, the conditions which may modify its action, and the necessity of correlating all of these things with rates and frequences of application. The development of a good program for its use will take into account the influence of such things as the kind of grass and intensity of management, soil and weather conditions, severity of wear and other sources of injury, irrigation practices, and other factors which are likely to affect normal turf growth. All of these things have a bearing on the way grass will respond to any given material. And, adjustments of specific programs always will be necessary, regardless of the type of material that is used. The increasing popularity of and demand for the more slowly available forms of nitrogen have resulted from recognition that their use entails a far less delicate adjustment of applications to the many conditions affecting nitrogen supply than is required when programs are based primarily on the use of quickly available forms. But, at the same time it whould be recognized that each class of materials has its limitations. Although we recognize that even moderate quantities of the quick-acting forms may act too fast; in contrast, the response to natural organics and ureaforms may be so slow, that, unless large quantities are applied, there will not be sufficient growth stimulation from them to produce the desired results. Recognition of this fact has led to the use of combinations of slow and quick acting materials, to compensate for the limitations of each. At the present time many fertilizer manufacturers are offering products of this type. They are receiving general acceptance, and when mixtures are in the right proportions, they are doing a good job. The best information available at the present time indicates that the total nitrogen they contain should be in the ratio of about three parts coming from slowly available sources and one part from quick acting materials. There is some modification of this when mixtures are prepared which contain only natural organics and ureaforms . In such cases the ratios used are about one part of nitrogen from the organic material to two parts from ureaform. It should be emphasized that any program for the use of such materials must be based on definite knowledge of the exact proportions of each type of nitrogen they contain. Products labeled only as "containing organic nitrogen" or "ureaform" are always subject to suspicion. The most recent development in the field of nitrogenous fertilizers is the attempt by the fertilizer and chemical industry to control the rate of release of nitrogen from the cheaper inorganic materials by the use of coatings, or by combining them with substances that resist decomposition. Some of these are being produced commercially in limited quantities, and several Agricultural Experiment Stations are making critical tests of them. At the present stage of our knowledge of their performance they should be used with caution. Their ultimate value will depend on whether they can give us the gradual release of nitrogen which is becoming so generally recognized as being desirable for turfproduction, and whether they can do it more economically than the materials available at present. KEEPING A TIGHT BENTGRASS TURF Norm Kramer, Supt., Point 0'Woods C. Club Benton Harbor, Michigan I have been asked to present my program of trying to improve our fairway conditions at Point O'Woods Golf and Country Club near Benton Harbor, Michigan. Briefly, here is what brought about the change and what we did about four problems. 1- The main problem "was compaction 2. Air and light drainage 3. Fertility level 4. Strain of grass 1. COMPACTION. We grew crops of knotweed and crabgrass like you have never seen before. What brought on the compaction? This piece of property was in most places a solid wood, with tall trees, underbrush and vines. This resulted in clearing, with large equipment; 69 acres for farways, tees and greens. Besides clearing and leveling with large equipment, the most damaging work was rotating to a depth of from 10 to 14 inches mixed in the blue clay and subsoil. After this we had cement not topsoil. What did we do? The first year program of aerifying with coring spoons was started in 1958, and we used the same program as in 1959. The third year we did the same, but we were not able to improve on our establishment of bent. Meanwhile, we had worn out two aerifiers and 8 sets of coring tines - it s'eemed an impossible task. By the spring of 1962 we could see some definite results from the aerifying program, but not enough. Let's go back to #2 - AIR AMD WATER DRAINAGE. Due to the fact that it was a thick woods with underbrush, we started to clear out all brush and vines. Then, the man above took over and the elms started to die, and up to now 800 or more have been removed to further reduce the shade and air drainage problem. We still have many trees, but comparatively good air and light drainage, which has helped reduce compaction problem for the soil can dry out now. 3. THE FERTILITY LEVEL was low. After a soil test I went to a typical 12-12-12 analysis at the rate of 400 per acre in the spring of 1959, and followed this through the season with urea 45% at the rate of 100 lbs. per acre during June, July and August, and back to 400 lbs. of 12-12-12 in the fall. This program remained the same in 1960 and 1961. In 1962 the levels of potash and phosphate were built up, so I changed and went to a 2:1:1 ratio fertilizer at the rate of 350 lbs. per acre, continuing xvLth urea and back to the 2:1:1 in early October. My program was the same in 1963. Now, this brings us to the one thing that was hard to sell to the board - the strain of grass which I wanted to change. When constructed the entire course, except the greens, was planted in Highland bent - even the roughs. Due to the soil and drainage problems the Highland did not adapt to the area. The greens had been seeded with Seaside bent, which was doing a very fine job of adapting to soil conditions. After proving my point with the board, the next step was to find a tool which would prepare a seedbed, plus cultivate and help break up compaction. After looking at the machines that were available and making sure it would do the job, I decided to purchase an Aero-blade and a sweeper. May I further remind you that this may not be the program for your particular area, but I feel for incorporating the seed in established turf, plus getting rid of any thatch problem you might have, this method seems to be the finest available at the present, plus the slit will stay open during the winter mon ths. Time - 1962 - third week in August 1963 - third week in September - result - less wilt in September 1. Make certain soil moisture content is just right - reason - if too wet the machine will not bring up any soil. If it is too dry the grass will tend to wilt easily. 2. Mark the fairway valves with dolimitic lime so that valves are easily seen and h f with the slicer. 3. Slice fairways with machine. 4. Broadcast seed over sliced area - we applied Seaside bent 30# per acre. 5. Drag mat with piece of chain link fence 22 ft. x 10 ft. long 6. Sweep fairway to pick up grass clippings 7. Mow 8. Water. The first time make certain you have soil moisture content as close to full field capacity as possible when you finish watering. Continue to keep areas moist to get good germination. MAINTAINING A TIGHT BLUEGRASS TURF Donald Clemans, Supt., Norwood Hills Country Club St. Louis, Missouri There are five points of significance in my maintenance program: fertility, mowing and watering practices, selective herbicide program, fungicide program and thatch removal. Fertility: I seem to be prejudiced toward a 2:1:1 ratio fertilizer for my fairway fertilization. A broadcaster type spreader has ease of application and is time saving so that 18 holes can be fertilized in less than five hours. Since this is possible, I can pick an afternoon, say before a weather front moves past with rain, fertilize the fairways and have it watered in on the same day. The first application of fertilizer is applied about April 1, and may or may not need to be watered in by irrigating. At this time I apply about 1 pound of actual nitrogen, plus pound of P & K per 1000 sq.ft. Very shortly after spring, summer arrives, rapidly warming the soil, but the air is now what might be termed "hot." Neither situation is optimum for the growth of bluegrass, to say nothing of the fact that this also is the most competitive part of the growing season. The the rate of this time. application second application is applied about 8 weeks later, by about July 1, at -|-7fN/l, 000. The soil moisture is very likely to be a critical factor at Therefore, more than likely I will try to irrigate immediately. This method takes longer, but it pays off in eliminating turf damage. The early fall application is applied by September 1, and again may or may not need to be watered in by irrigating. The soil has been warmed by the sun all summer and will retain the warmth for some time. Now the plant has an environment which is optimum for growth and should last 8 to 10 weeks. My late fall application is 1-|- lbs. of N and i lb. P & K. I feel that the plant has a greater ability to utilize the additional fertilizer best at this time. This brings the seasonal total to 3 lbs. of N and lir lbs. of P & K. MOWING: First, I feel that the mowing height should never vary from 1-J- inches. I maintain this height by mowing fairways at least 5 times per week. The average golf course 18 fairways should contain between 40 to 50 acres. I found that with two 7gang mowing units that my fairways could be mowed in about 4 hours. By mowing this often I always had the grass plant maintained at a near constant height. Also, the size of the individual leaf clippings are small and they will filter into the turf, leaving little or no debris on the surface.. Another advantage of small clippings is that it becomes possible for the clipped grass to get next to the soil more easily and speed up the decay process and thus cause less thatch accumulation. WATERING: Water, In my opinion, should be used as a maintenance tool to insure against drouth and ths maintain active growth. Obviously, soil and water holding ability of the soil on every golf course differs. But, in my case it was necessary to water some fairways with good moisture retention only 6 times a season; yet, others needed 12 or 15 irrigations. There is no way to say that you should water every given number of days. SELECTIVE HERBICIDE PROGRAM; The broadleaf weed control program was based on a "home-brew" mixture of 2-4,D Amine and 2,4,5-T. I always use 1 lb. of 2,4-D per acre, and vary the 2,4,5-T from none to 1 lb. per acre. And, I always treat both the fairways and roughs. Dandelions and buckhorn are not too hard to control. Khotweed is a different type of problem. By timing the application so that knotweed is in the two leaf stage (in late April) satisfactory control can be gotten. Meanwhile, the bluegrass was able to grow, thicken and begin to compete. In all applications a wetting agent was used to enable greater leaf surface wetting, and sprays applied with a 21 foot front mount boom. The next phase of selective herbicide control was a crabgrass control program. I prefer a Tri-calcium arsenate program because of its fine residual effect. Once crabgrass control x\as established, annual additions were made at one-fourth recommended rate in the spring with success. With control of broadleaf weeds, knotweed, and crabgrass, my fertilizer program was benefitting the desirable turf only. FUNGICIDE PROGRAM: My attempt here is to control leafspot on bluegrass in late spring and early summer. Anything that weakens the turf in the spring will undoubtedly affect its ability to withstand the stresses of summer. One season two applications of Parzate, plus iron sulfate, were used. This material was sprayed from a boom jet nozzle covering 40 feet at a time. This allowed us to treat all fairways in 6 hours. Another season I used one application of Acti-dione RZ, plus iron with the same equipment. Each season will determine the number of treatments needed. But, I feel confident even one application times properly is of great benefit. THATCH REMOVAL PROGRAM: On bluegrass a thatch removal operation is preferred before the early fall fertilization. This process allows the fall fertilizer to get into the ground readily. It also makes watering and fall rains much more effective by decreasing run-off. If there are any thin spots in the fairways they are seeded at this time with a 50% Delta bluegrass, 50% Common Kentucky bluegrass mixture. Briefly, the operation has been to thatch, broadcast the seed, drag with a chain-link fence mat, and then remove the thatch. By fertilizing and watering immediately after I have had good germination in 7 to 10 days. Even if seeding is not necessary, thatch removal is beneficial. I have observed new growth and tillering from this severe vertical mowing operation. I have been thatching as deeply as passible which in my case is about one inch into the soil. This really does a root rhizome cutting job, and completely covers the existing green grass with thatch and soil. This whole series of programs have proven successful to me; yet, I'm always looking for ways to improve them. KEEPING TIGHT TURF - BERMUDA GRASS Ernie Schneider, Supt., Bellerive Country Club, Creve Coeur, Missouri Several years ago most of your criticism regarding long or fluffy turf came from your professional golfer. Today even the 100 shooter wants to play on closely mowed, tight turf. We are spending more time and money maintaining tees and fairways today than we are on greens. This was not true in the past. I believe that a good mowing practice is essential to well-groomed fairways. Our mowing starts early in the spring for we do have a weed problem, such as Poa annua, chickweed, etc. These, of course, come on before the Bermuda greens up. The height of cut is as low as the mowers can be set. This height is maintained throughout the mowing season, from April 1 to November. Cne of the most important things in mowing Bermuda turf is to mow often, three to four times a week. I usually try to mow when the grass is reasonably dry, to get a good scattering of the clippings. There is nothing more unsightly on fairways or tees than a heavy cutting of clippings. Three years ago I tried out a set of five-gang, ten-blade mowers. At first I was unhappy. It had more clip per inch, pulling them at the regular speed as we did our other mowers; it would raise up; the back roller would come up off the turf; then when the roller came down it would bite into the turf, making an unsightly cut. After we got rid of our thatch and slowed the speed of the tractor, it did a beautiful job. This mower is much heavier, has more tension on the back roller, which enables it to cut a little closer than a six-blade reel type mower. We pulled them a whole year before we bought them. I try to get over all the fairways at least once a week with this ten-blade. This mower gets more of a workout than the six-blades as it is cutting somewhere at all times. To maintain good tight turf thatching is important. We had a very dry spring in 1963, less than a half inch rainfall during April and May. June was normal; July and August excessive moisture, and the fall was exceptiaally dry. I only thatched three times this past season due to this unusual weather. I thatched in April, June and August. When used the thatching machine is set as deep as possible. This enables us to tear out thatch, dead as well as live material, and also cultivate too. We are trying to create a healthier turf by slitting and tearing - you are making the grass start new shoots. In the grooves where this cultivating action takes place the grass is healthier and is a much brighter color. After thatching,all loose material is picked up by a sweeper, and hauled away. Then, the fairways are cut with the tenblade mower and swept again. The following day they are cut again, and this gives a real smooth appearance. After the fairways are de-thatched, they are fertilized — the first time with a 2:1:1 ratio, at the rate of 300 lbs. per acre. I fertilize three more times during the season with Urea 45. Each application provides one pound per 1,000 sq.ft. - just enough fertilizer to keep the grass in good color. With this fertilizer program I do not get a lush, fast growth. The winter of '62 and '63 was one of the most severe that Kentucky has ever had. Also, we had below normal rainfall. Fairways at Big Spring County Club came through in fine shape with less than 5% winterkill. Also, we had less spring deadspot than noticed the previous year. Zoysia is plugged in damaged areas. At times I wish I would have had watered fairways. To me this would have been very important last year and this year both going into the winter season on the dry side. Now that I have mentioned a fairway watering system, I think that I should tell you that I do not believe in over-watering Bermuda. Once every three weeks, if we do not have rain, is usually sufficient. This past season a water system would have come in very handy when I wanted to spray for weeds. After I thatched and fertilized in April, there was an invasion of crabgrass in some areas, but I had to wait for a sufficient amount of moisture to do the spraying. From past experience, spraying when it is too dry does discolor the grass and retards its growth. For control of the crabgrass I still have the best results by using disodium methyl-arsonate with 2,4-D, and I have increased the amount of wetting agent. The rate used - "on the hot, dry side for turf", and 4 ozs. of 2,4-D and 1/2 gallon of wetting agent to 150 gal. tank. I try to spray on a Monday when the crabgrass has had a chance to get some leaf growth over the weekend. Then, I usually cut these areas on Wednesday, and repeat the spraying on Thursday — I come back the following Monday with another spraying. With this method I have always had real good results. This may sound like a lot of work to you, but the members of Big Spring Country Clud would not trade their U-3 Bermuda fairways for any other type of turf. Good tight turf makes any golfer's game more enjoyable. THATCH AND RENOVATION EQUIPMENT W. H. Daniel, Professor, Dept. of Agronomy Purdue University, Lafayette, Ind. During this Conference you have had several presentation on thatch and its control. Without a doubt there is still much to be learned. Currently, over 20 models from over 12 manufacturers are designed to rake, comb, pull, or cut thatch, old leaves, new leaves, runners, etc., from near the soil surface. Our 1963 Field Day report characterized equipment into 3 groups, depending on their action and speed of operation 1. 2. 3. High speed - rigid blades - cuts whatever touched. Sloxtf speed - rigid blades - combing and pulling. Slow speed - flexible - combing and pulling. Manicuring Manicuring is the grooming of growing plant parts. It is usually light, frequent, partial and cautious. Manicuring should not interfere with the use of the area. It may be intended to just thin out the crabgrass; thin back the creeping bent; take out the old dead leaves of bluegrass; smooth up the uniformity of the area. On bluegrass this is most frequently done in mid-fall. it may be as the grass is growing vigorously. On Bermuda and Zoysia Rejuvenation Rejuvenation could be similar to renovation, but is less drastic. In rejuvenation the idea is to provide room for new growth, remove competition, to give the grass another chance. For this reason cutting into the soil may be desired, cutting through the rhizomes, the runners, the thatch; bringing soil up on top of the existing grass. And, definite thinning - up to 50% removal of grass may be desired. Generally fertilizing at the same time is also favored. Sometimes overseeding may be added. Generally rejuvenation should be done under favorable weather conditionsnot when there is unusual plant stress already present. In either case above, there is one key idea. There should be green growing points remaining after the renovation is completed, otherwise brown areas may be too severe and extensive. WHAT IS ENOUGH? Ernie Schneider, Supt., Bellerive Country Club Creve Coeur, Missouri In 1959 my front yard was planted with a mixture of Tifgreen and Sunturf Bermuda. I maintained this as a putting green at a 5/16" cut. By the next spring this was a beautiful piece of turf. That year I fertilized it as it needed it, but the following year I kept the turf very lush, using 16 lbs. N. per 1,000 sq.ft. That winter I lost 90% of this putting green. I plugged it with the same kind of turf - by August it was back in shape. From then on, I watched my rate of nitrogen. The winter of '62 and '63 was very severe,but there was no loss of turf. Every spring I would de-thatch it very severely, removing all the dead grass and stems down to the ground. This putting green received a lot of traffic from the neighbor children, caddies, etc. It had six putting cups in it. I received a lot of newspaper publicity from this lawn, then many inquiries and calls from persons wanting a backyard putting green. When I would mention that it had to be mowed every other day, this would discourage most of them. I try to encourage people to thatch grass at the proper time - bluegrass in the late summer or early fall, and Bermuda and Zoysia grass during the early spring just when it greens up. I know of an instance where a man thatched his Zoysia lawn heavy in the fall and seeded it to ryegrass. The next year his Zoysia did not recover until late in the summer due to the severe thatching so late in the season. On the golf course I thatch the Bermuda fairways on the average of three times a year, but never later than August. I mow 3 to 4 times a week. I think that is sufficient for well-manicured turf. Whether you are a homeowner, or you make your living maintaining turf, the problems are increasing. Some of the southern weeds and grasses are moving farther north and vice-versa. In the past few years I have found creeping lovegrass and dallisgrass on the golf course - one from the north and one from the south - where they came from I do not know. The cost of controlling weeds and insects in turf can be expensive. For preemergence material, the two which I have had the most success with on both small and large areas, have been calcium arsenate and granular chlordane. I have areas on the golf course where the residual was good for four years on Bermuda and bluegrass, with one application of calcium arsenate at the rate of 10 lbs. per 1,000 sq.ft. on the Bermuda and 15 lbs. on the bluegrass. As far as granular chlordane, I have had wonderful success preventing goosegrass in greens. I have used it on bent and bluegrass for the past four years, and I have seen no damage - only near perfect control There have been some reports of damage from other areas where this chlordane was used — I have not seen this myself. I did have one puzzler. To control chickweed and crabgrass we applied calcium arsenate to two lawns - one neighbor across the street and one next door to me. goth were applied in September - one received no control, and the other was perfect. The neighbor who received no control gives his yard good care with regular fertilization, etc., and the other is rather haphazard about his lawn care. I do know the material was applied properly as I put it on myself. (Editor's note: Heavy fertilization builds up phosphorus to high availiabity which over-rode arsenic toxicity. On unfertilized lawn arsenic was toxic since less phosphorus was present.) I often puzzles me as to how much realjris enough - whether it be fertilizer, insecticides, or herbicides. I have had many excellent results, and some not too good. GREENS - MY IDEAS John McCoy, Supt., Cincinnati Country Club, Cincinnati, Ohio The theme of this morning's Conference is - "Turf, Ready for Use." From the previous speakers you have heard thatch discussed and how superintendents keep a tight fairway turf with different grasses. I have been asked to express my ideas of keeping a tight turf on greens through management and the use of topdressing. In the majority of cases today the golf course superintendent arrives at a course knowing little of its construction or maintenance history. It has been designed by an architect, built by a constructor, and probably been maintained by one or several different superintendents over a period of a few to many years. Whenever a superintendent takes over a new or different course, he faces a breaking-in period of two or more years before he intimately knows his new course. First, he must know the type of maintenance the club desires, and then he must make his plan of operation. Most golfers desire a putting green that is smooth, dense, or tight, upright in growth, disease-free, uniform in color both as to individual greens and throughout the season - one that is free of grain and one that will hold a well-played ball. Putting speed of greens varies with different clubs,depending on type of play, or rather players. With these requirements how are we to plan our maintenance program to produce greens meeting these conditions and carry it out without undue interference with the players? Watering is probably the hardest and yet the most important job to accomplish. Grens vary much in structure, in soil, in contour and in type of grass. I prefer hand-watering of greens in early morning. We use sprinklers also, but not in critical weather periods. Water should never be applied faster than the soil will absorb it. Too wet a green will cause the turf to lay flat, which is a start for mat or thatch formation, as well as other troubles. I have never been able to solve over-watering the center of a green when using sprinklers - that being the main reason I prefer hand-watering. Fertilization is another very important management practice. I do not belive in pushing greens to a fast growth in early spring when growth is naturally fast. We hold off fertilizing the putting area until the early lushness is gone. I prefer dry applications to liquid applications of fertilizer because I can secure a more even application and use materials with slower nutrient availabiLity. I use frequent light applications, the materials and analysis of my choosing. Sewage sludge, ureaform, sulfate of ammonia, and muriate of sulfate of potash are the principal ingredients; the sulfate of ammonia being used in very light amounts. The amount of elements used is varied to suit seasonal and weather conditions. I believe that some readily available phosphorus is desirable for short cut turf. Also, that it is better to apply ureaform fertilizer in several light applications per season rather than in one or two heavy applications. Light fertilizer applications do not promote rapid growth, but a very uniform growth pattern which is favorable in keeping thatch from forming. May I add that our fertilizer applications are made with a rotary spreader powered from a light garden type tractor. The spreader is very easy to handle and gives a very uniform spread with our mix. Vigorous brushing of greens is very important,and along with regular cutting helps keep grain and thatch from forming by pulling up blades and runners. I do not like brushes attached to a greens mower for this work. I prefer flat steel wire brushes separately mounted on a two-wheel type tractor. Our brushes are 4 ft. in width, 4" thick, with 5-inch long wires. The brushes are mounted behind the power wheels. An adjustable castor wheel behind the brush controls the pressure put on the brush, and also raises the brush for transport. The best brushing is done when the wires are kept in a nearly vertical position. With this type of equipment one man can brush greens faster than three can cut. Early morning brushing before cutting removes dew and when fertilizing we try to do it immediately after brushing. In my program topdressing is a must. Topdressing should be done frequently, at least six times a season, with light applications and throughout all the growing season. Topdressing will improve putting by keeping the turf tight. It helps reduce disease by applying fresh soil material at the soil surface. It aids in decay of organic matter by giving soil bacteria a place to work as I don't believe they work in organic matter above the soil line. Topdressing maintains present soil characteristics, or can gradually modify soil structure, depending on the mixture used. Root growth is deeper. There is less wilting in hot and humid weather. Also, air and water penetration being improved. I prefer about one eighth cubic yards of dressing per 1,000 sq.ft. of putting surface per application; the material having been screened before applying so that all material, can be worked into the surface with no tailings to be removed. With mechanized operations, a power spreader, power driven brushes to work the topdressing in (the same brushes used for brushing at other times) twenty greens can be topdressed in six hours. Cut after topdressing and lightly watered, the greens are in very playable condition. In cool weather greens are cut after topdressing and before watering; in warmer weather watering precedes cutting. By using two brushes on a green and varying directions of each operation, a mower is starting to cut a green as the spreader is finishing applying topdressing to that green. Two or three times over the green with the brush incorporates this amount of topdressing in a tight green. Vertical mowing is a help in preventing thatch formation, but it does not work into my program. It is a slower operation than brushing and I consider it a means of correcting a thatch condition more than in preventing it. It may disturb putting to the point that players complain. Aerifying helps in maintaining subsurface soil conditions and thus aids in thatch control through better growth conditions. Any method of aerifying produces a roughened putting surface. To my mind the time greens need aerifying most is in late May or early June after they have been compacted during the usually more moist spring season by humans and equipment. This is also the hardest season of the year to accomplish this work. I have long felt that the best type aerifier for use in spring or summer was the drill type as it disturbed the putting surface less than punch types, either with open or closed punches or spoons. A light brushing and a cutting after drilling left a good putting surface with little or no complaint from players. Another management practice is use of fungicides and insecticides. Following my program as outlined, disease and insect control are relatively easy. My main idea here is to apply in concentrated form. I never apply over two gallons, generally less, of a fungicidal and insecticidal mixture per 1,000 sq.ft. of green, including collor or apron, and never water it in. I can see no reason for applying diluted solutions. It is not difficult to train an employee to apply this amount if you select the proper type of equipment. The ideas I have mentioned have produced for me greens that the players like. Our cutting height is a nominal 1/4 inch, a height my Chairman does not want changed and the height remains the same throughout the season. Frequent light applications of fertilizer maintain a uniform growth, and the grass has a healthy appearance and good color at all times. Topdressing keeps a tight, smooth surface with good ball holding and putting qualities free from grain and thatch. Disease prevention and control are kept at a minimum. All operations are performed with the player in mind so that they can have an enjoyable round of golf at all times. GREENS - SOME OBSERVATIONS James L. Holmes, Mid-Western Agronomist U.S.G.A. Green Section The periodic loss of some turf on putting greens is becoming less of a problem yearly. More technical data is being made available and golf course superintendents develop superior maintenance skills. At most clubs in the Midwest, members can expect to play on adequate putting surfaces at all times during the playing season. We have progressed considerably in construction methods of putting greens which include design, soils, technical abilities and knowhow in using the information we have. As a result of information derived from sound research and continuous observations, reputable and knowledgable architects and builders now insist upon constructing greens so that adequate surface and subsurface drainage is accrued at all times. This drainage includes both water and air. Specific information in this regard is available as a result of work done here at Purdue with soil additives, and research sponsored by the USGA Green Section. In order to assure proper drainage, the relationship between capilary, noncapilary and total air space must be properly determined for each specific scil 'used. Where greens have been constructed with drainage principles protected, turf has developed well and observations indicate that it will be possible to maintain adequate putting surfaces at all times with a minimum of "headaches." It has been determined that water infiltration rates between 1/2 and 1 inch per hour, when the soil is compacted, are optidmal by USGA Green Section recommendations when using only soil, sand and peat. It is important to note that this infiltration rate must be assured even when soils are compacted. This is paramount because putting green compaction is an extremely serious problem and one which has caused the golf course superintendent considerable chagrin. If one is to be assured of a proper infiltration rate, or an infiltration rate which can be effectively controlled, a perched water table relationship is essential. In perching water tables, one must be extremely careful that excess water is not held. If so, the infiltration principle is destroyed. It has been my observation that if one does not use the proper percentage of sandy materials, it is usually better to use no sand whatsoever; but, rather simply use the soil present and construct greens so that surface drainage is assured. I have observed repeatedly that greens built with native soils produced excellent putting qualities for a number of years. Therefore, if the entire concept of the sandy soil construction is not followed - exactly - I suggest that the native soil present on the building site be used. Naturally, I am aware that numerous authorities on this subject would violently disagree. Nonetheless, this has been my observational experience. Overwatering, or water-saturated soil conditions continues to be one of the most serious problems in maintaining greens which cannot or do not drain. If all the technical improvements currently known are incorporated when greens are constructed or rebuilt, this serious factor will become less of a problem. When one considers the tremendous amount of work done and equipment used to "aerate" green soils, he immediately becomes aware of the necessity for and lack of drainage - both air and water. Perhaps we are guilty of throwing out the baby with the wash water. Developments in improved bentgrasses have been extremely slow since the results obtained from selections made in the pie green work sponsored by the Green Section. At the present time the majority of grasses used for putting greens are still those developed in this testing work. Developments in this field are limited primarily to Penncross bentgrass. However, new selections, such as Evansville, are being released and I believe it is only a matter of time until superior bents are available. Poa annua is "the last serious weed problem in putting greens. Of course, there is always the question of whether Poa annua is a friend, or foe. I believe as a result of the severe damage done to Poa annua during recent winters, this plant must be considered a foe in this part of the country on putting greens. Presently work is being accomplished in enzymatic control of various plants. Surely, it is only a matter of time until we can eradicate Poa annua without running the chance of seriously damaging desirable bentgrasses. Many golf course superintendents continue to apply lead arsenate, or calcium arsenate to putting surfaces in an effort to retard Poa annua vigor as well as grub and worm-proof the soil. It is my opinion that this is an excellent practice. HOW BLUEGRASS DEVELOPS Tim Ga^kin, Warren's Turf Nursery PalosPark, Illinois When a bluegrass seed falls on the ground, either naturally or through a seeder, it starts the cycle of development of a bluegrass plant. There are various stages of development of bluegrass from the seed to the flowering plant. There are also changes through the seasons in a mature bluegrass sod, such as leaf development, rhizome production, flowering, etc. All of these occur year after year. Each of these factors contribute to the development of a bluegrass sod and to the appearance of a bluegrass lawn. Development of a Bluegrass Most bluegrass seed, when it first fall from the seed stalk, or is harvested in the seed field, will not germinate. It is alive, but dormant. That is, given the proper treatment and conditions it will germinate and produce a seedling. These conditions are either letting the seed age for several months, or a period of alternating hot and cold conditions when the seed is moist. The reason for this is to prevent the seed from germinating as soon as it falls to the ground in July. Then the conditions for germination and establishment of a seedling bluegrass are very poor with hot weather and periods of drouth. When the warm days and cool nights of fall come, the seed will germinate when conditions are the best for establishment of bluegrass plants. When the seed germinates a" primary root is formed which penetrates the soil, and first one and then later leaves will be formed. If the seed germinated in the fall, the cold weather of winter will stop further growth. At this time, the young seedling will consist of several tillers (usually three) each with 2 to 5 green 1 ea ves. In the early spring additional tillers will be formed. Leaf growth will increase. Before June or July, the rhizomes will start to grow. The plants must be of a certain size before rhizomes will be produced. Usually about two rhizomes are formed. These will grow undergound and then come to the surface and produce new crowns. The new leaves and these rhizomes will increased the density of a stand of seedlings which may look thin in the fall. The warmer weather in summer may slow down growth of both rhizomes and leaves. This is one of the reasons why bluegrass lawns appear the poorest and why diseases cause the most problems during July and August. Very hot and very dry weather will stop growth completely and the grass will turn brown. Root growth is best when the soil temperature is about 60° F. and stops at 80° F. As the days get cooler, bluegrass beings to grow again. This a period of less leaf growth as compared with rhizomes growth. New rhizomes are formed from the old rhizomes. Many new rhizomes are developed during October of a normal season. The rhizomes formed at this time do not form new crowns by growing upward to the surface, but stay below the ground until spring. In the spring there is a flush of leaf growth, as described earlier, some form new tillers and some from the new crowns produced from rhizomes developed in the fall. Unless the shoots or tillers flower (as described later) the cycle of growth of leaves and later rhizomes occurs year after year in bluegrass sod, although in old sod fewer rhizomes are produced. Leaf The leaf of the bluegrass is the organ which comprises the most visible part of turf. After all, a lawn is just a collection of grass blades and tillers. Each tiller has about 3 green leaves. Leaves are formed in the spring about every 10 to 12 days. In the summer there is a new leaf every 17 days; the fall every 19 days; and winter about every 81 days. These figures are, of course, easily altered by a change in the weather. After the leaves first appear, they will grow during the summer for 3 weeks. After that, the leaf will be green for another 6 weeks in a normal season. One can see why a bluegrass lawn takes so much mowing in the spring and summer. The leaf blades in the spring grow successively longer, and in the fall the leaves as they are produced are shorter than the next older leaf. This is apparently related to the length of day. Another effect of the length of day is that in the summer the shoots and leaves are upright, while in the winter the leaves and shoots are spreading and decumbent. Also, the number of shoots is greater in the winter or shor days, even in controlled climate chambers. The length of day also will determine when the flowering will occur. Leaves may last 9 weeks in the summer. Shoots and tillers, which are composed of leaves, grow until the shoot flowers in the early summer,and after the seed is ripe the shoot will die. Since not all shoots will flwoer, those that don't will grow for one more season - they rarely last longer. Rhizomes The rhizomes or underground stems have two functions. One is to allow the plant to spread vegetatively. This occurs mostly in the spring and summer. The second function of rhizomes is as a storage organ. Various studies have shown that following leaf growth in the spring, there is storage of reserves in the rhizomes. The same thing occurs in the fall when there is little leaf or shoot growth and food is stored in the rhizomes for the winter. The rhizomes in the summer are longer, and stay underground longer than those in the fall. It has been reported that rhizomes will not grow to the surface if the air temperature is below 50° F., while the best temperature for root and rhizome growth is 50° to 60° F. One half the rhizomes formed in June will emerge by fall; the rest will emerge "the following year. Flowering Everyone has seen bluegrass flowering on roadsides and in waste areas, and others have noticed flower stalks of bluegrass in lawns in May before the mower cuts them off. These flower stalks are the result of a process that started in the previous fall. During the cool, short days (less than 9 hours of delight) the flowering stalk was initiated in some of the tillers of the plant. Only about one-third of the mature tillers will produce flower stalks. Instead of a vegetative bud which would produce more leaves in the spring, a bud is formed which will produce a flower stalk. The time of the winter this flowering bud is formed depends on the variety. Common Kentucky bluegrass usually has about half of the flowering buds formed by the middle of December, while in Merion that stage is reached by the end of January. Of course, Merion flowers in the spring later. As the weather becomes warmer in spring, the flower stalks elongate and by May the plants are in flower. If the plants are mowed the stalk is cut off and the base of the stalk, which is not cut off, usually dies. These dead stalks and some short flower stalks, which for seme reason or another are not mowed off, detract from the appearance of the lawns at this time of year. Newport, a heavy seed producer, is noted for its numerous seed stalks even under turf conditions. Two weeks after the flowering stalk appears, the plants flower. These plants shed pollen from 5 A.M. to about 10:00 A.M., unless unfavorable weather checks the flower's opening. The seeds are mature when the flower stalk turns yellow. The process of the development of the seed need not concern us here except that in the improved commercial varieties of Kentucky bluegrass, the seed is produced asexually through a process called apomixis. This means that almost all of the seed (95%) or more) is exactly like the parent plant. They are the same as if you divided the parent plant into two plants. Thus, these strains are quite pure, much purer than many field crop seeds. Environmental Factors There are several things that a person can do which will affect the number of rhizomes and tillers, or shoots. Naturally, one would want the greatest number of tillers for the best appearing lawn, while a large number of rhizomes will allow turf injured by diseases or insects to recover quickly. Fertilizing as is well known will increase the growth of lawns. As can be seen by the chart, the number of both rhizomes and shoots increased with fertilization. However, nitrogen fertilization increases the shoots and leaves relatively more than the rhizomes. NO, SHOOTS AND RHIZOMES PER 1 SQUARE FOOT Shoots Rhizomes * No Fertilizer Unmowed Mowed** 279 1939 July 368 221 Aug. 395 300 306 Sept. 300 Nov. 294 285 1940 April 429 360 334 1939 July Aug. Sept. Nov. 1940 April 254 286 236 252 256 255 279 321 306 294 333 Fertilized* Mowed** Unmowed 789 603 816 543 643 817 706 924 776 654 1405 950 Average 35 366 414 498 443 351 3 06 390 40-1 407 447 423 418 Average NaNOg at 200 lbs. acre April and July 1939, ** 1 inch cut From "Kentucky Bluegrass" Ohio Sta Bull. 681, 1949. Mowing will also increase the number of shoots and will increase the number of rhizomes where one doesn't fertilize. In fertilized lawns there is no increase in number of rhizomes; in fact, close mowing (less than 1 inch) reduces the relative number of rhizomes per shoot. There are many other factors (rainfall and irrigation, disease, insects,etc.) which will affect the growth of bluegrass. The kind of bluegrass is important too. These must be taken into account in developing a lawn program. RESEARCH FOR BETTER BLUEGRASSES C. W. Lobenstein, Dept. of Plant Industries Southern Illinois University, Carbondale, Illinois Much progress is being made in the development of techniques for maximum performance of presently available turfgrass varieties. However, for continued advancement in turfgrass culture, improved varieties are essential. This is especially true in the case of Kentucky bluegrass. We could take the view that present varieties are adequate if properly managed. We could also say that present model cars, tractors, and mowers are adequate. This does not cause us to turn away from still better designs, or improved performance — there is always room for improvement. One phase of our work at Purdue is seeking improved Kentucky bluegrass varieties involved making some specific measurements of the rates of growth and sod formation by several different selections. Most of the selections had come from patches in established mowed turfs. They had formed denser, thicker turfs than the common types. The principal question we tried to answer was, "What characteristics do these types have which permit their superior performance?" In some cases the selections were lower growing. Perhaps they flourished because of less injury from low mowing. Surely all potential varieties for fairways should be evaluated for this feature. Some were not attacked as severely by the more damaging fungous diseases. This remains a major goal in new varieties. Other selections were very aggressive and formed sods over larger areas much more rapidly than common varieties inspite of severe disease attacks and upright growth habits. The increased rate of spread and sod formation resulted from production cf greater numbers as well as increased length of rhizomes. In four separate tests nine test selections produced, by growth from single shoots during periods of 120 days or more, an average of one new rhizome per day. This represented slightly more than 3 inches linear rhizome growth per day. In the same tests Merion and three Common types averaged only 0.3 rhizomes, or approximately 3/4 inch rhizome growth per day. Comparisons of the average number of newly emerged shoots per day showed almost 3 times as many for the 9 vigorous selections. Differences between Merion and the other standard varieties were generally not significant. Measurement of the area occupied by growth from single tillers during the summer of 1962 showed an average for the 9 experimental clones of 16 square inches for 120 days and 50 square inches for 180 days. Average for the Merion and Common types were 6.3 and 28 square inches during the same periods. Initially the Merion types had slightly larger numbers of shoots per unit area, but at the end of the first year's growth, sods of aggressive types were generally as thick as Merion. The observed differences in rhizome development appears to arise from variations in the physiology of the plants rather than from structural or morphological differences. Results of this study suggest that such aggressive types have the capacity to accumulate greater energy reserves more rapidly and possibly with more limited foliage area. Such possibilities need to be examined on a larger scale because of the implications regarding mowing practices and disease problems. Studies of regrowth into barren areas in 3-year old sods showed that the virorous types maintain their aggressive characteristics even in mature sods. While the measured differences were not as great, they were still threefold, or greater than Merion or Common. The superiority in rhizome growth and recovery potential observed in this group of experimental selections could imply several possibilities for the future development of improved bluegrass varieties. Should not rhizome potential and rate of sod formation be weighed more heavily in evaluation of new varieties? Does greater rhizome development permit certain types to escape or recover more rapidly from disease attacks, or mowing injury? May satisfactory stands be established with lower seeding rates? Will sod fields regenerate more rapidly after cutting? If apomixis and other plant breeding problems prevent introduction of greatly improved varieties from seed sources, is the possibility of establishment by vegetative means completely unrealistic for certain areas? i For the many varied turf situations and geographic locations in which Kentucky bluegrass is expected to perform, I personally doubt that one single variety can ever be found to fill the entire bill. Maximum performance in most field and vegetable crops has usually been due in part to the use of specific varieties for certain areas, or conditions. Why should we expect our crop of turfgrass to be different? Finally, the results of this study and subsequent observations lead to the conclusion that the potential for more satisfactory bluegrass varieties just from selections of naturally occurring Kentucky bluegrass ecotypes is still very great. RESEARCH IN BLUEGRASS Charles D. Berry, Graduate Student Purdue University The question is, "What should be done?" There are so many ramifications to be considered that one must pick a phase and move forward with it. Myself, being interested in genetics and in re-combining of attractive characters exhibited by various sources, would like to approach it by controlled cross-pollination. Now, your comment could be - "what good is cross-pollination going to do for everybody knows bluegrass is highly apomictic." Most bluegrass populations are highly apomictic, but clones are being found which reproduce sexually. When found these can be included in breeding programs, possibly crossing with apomictic types in order to reclaim the apomictic character to stabilize any segregates which are found having the desirable characteristics. We have set up an ideal circumstance, but how will we recognize these plants that are products of cross-pollinations? For this one must have genetic markers, or highly heritable characters which can be recognized in the individual arising from such cross-pollinations. To do this, tests must be made of the heritability of various characters. Ma st er's In my/program during the winter of 1963, 15 selected seed sources were planted in mass in greenhouse containers from which 100 individuals of each source were selected at random quite carefully and planted in individual four inch pots. The 1440 seedling plants were carried to the field on May 10, 1963 where they were planted in an 8 replicated, randomized, block design, as space plants on 2 foot centers. These were then maintained at 2" cut to compensate for the soil mounding under space planted conditions, with 1 lb. of actual nitrogen per month fertilization, and with watering when the least drouth tolerant showed the characteristic black color when wilting starts due to moisture stress. To round this out the grasses were maintained under as uniform and desirable management as was practical. The width of the leaf on individual plants ranged from 3 to 7 mm. This was done by selecting several mature leaves in the clone and recording the average of the measurements. Next the plants were scored for growth habit, prostrate to upright; this measurement offering some idea as to the type rhizome emergence and type of tillering. Leaf angle, using the third leaf down from the newest formed as a standard, was scored from narrow to wide, narrow being about 10 degrees and wide being about 90 degrees. Why? In a dense stand of turf, leaves of a wide angle shade other leaves ultimately causing some of the lower leaves to die. A very narrow leaf angle will probably leave less leaf area following mowing, especially close mowing. A crude measure of total spread was then taken by calibrating a scoring device on which the maximum was the spread of the most vigorously spreading type; the minimum was the spread of the least vigorously spreading type, and the length between was divided into equal increments. A measurement of spread for two directions was then taken, averaged and recorded as the spread for each plant. This character, of course, gives one an idea as to the extensiveness of rhizome formation. Immediately following the above measurement the spread or area covered (that could be considered dense enough for turf) was measured in a similar manner for each clone; the correlation of which, with the total spread,score will indicate the relationships of total rhizome vigor with ability to fill in or produce a dense turf. In early September an individual plant score for rust susceptibility, based on 107o of the leaves having rust pustules being resistant to 1007o of the leaves having pustules, was made. The value of such a score needs no explanation. Now we have a bunch of data - what are we going to do with it? The data has now been put on I.B.M. cards and an analysis of variance and correlations among these characters will be computed. From the above analyses the broad-sense heritability of these characters can be obtained and some idea about whether any of these characters are genetically correlated can be seen. As one can readily see, I lack considerable work completing this experiment. I hope to be able to report to you on the products of these analyses in the near future. Meanwhile, the research on bluegrass is expanding. I'm building on the research work of Lobenstein and Melkerson, former students. SOD GROWING NOTES - DISCUSSION Ray Freeborg, Acting .Secretary Link's Nursery, St.^Louis, Missouri Seeds and Seed Control Seed dormancy in Merion bluegrass has been quite evident in harvested crops the year of harvesting. It is suggested best to buy or have one year old seed. There may be a slight loss in viability due to this one year storage period, but this is offset by the greater total percentage germination. New selections of bluegrass have developed new problems in sod development and maintenance. An example would be the clumpy character of several new varieties that have proven superior in disease resistance, etc. Their sod-forming character is not so good that good dense sod would be formed. It may be necessary to include several varieties in one planting to assure the proper sod density. Or, heavier seeding may be required to correct this problem. Sod thickness is always of concern to the sod grower. Work completed by Tom Hodges (see Purdue work) has given support to the development of a sod thickness that is 3/4" to 1" thick. This thickness permits the newly laid sod to become attached to the ground more rapidly. Plant patenting was discussed. The most recent subject is the Scott patent on the Windsor variety of Poa pratensis. The abstract of this patent is as follows (taken from government patent No. 2364). Victor A. Renner, Marysville, Ohio, assignor to The 0. M. Scott 5c Sons Co., Marysville, Ohio, a corporation of Ohio. Filed January 22, 1963, serial number 253,234 1 claim (CI. Pit. 88). "The variety of bluegrass plant, substantially as shown and described herein, characterized particularly by dark green color and prolonged retention of color through summer and into fall, dense growth, less vertical growth, high resistance to common grass diseases, and ability to survive under drouth conditions." Vegetative methods of planting some grasses are considered necessary. grasses would include the Zoysias, hybrid Bermuda and bentgrass clones. These One approach to vegetative plants of Zoysia was proposed by Link's Nursery, St. Louis, Missouri. This method involves the use of two Rogers units. First, the Aero Blade, a vertical cutting unit, has blades set about 1" apart. This unit is run over the established Zoysia sod set about 1" to 1-1/2" deep; then again run over the turf at right angles. The resulting small 1" sod squares are kept moist and permitted to remain attached to the soil for a one week period. Then, a sodcutter, set to cut about 1/2", is run over the area, skinning the ground and releasing the sod squares. These can be picked up with a shovel and placed in a hopper spreader, or spread by hand over the area to be planted. The second unit has 3 parts - a tiller, vertical press disks, and a roller. The small plugs should firmly set into the soil. Water to assure survival and fertilize to push the grass as desired. Also, a good weed control program, either pre- or post-emergent should be developed. There are many pre-emergents that can be worked into this program. We prefer the post-emergent AMA + 2 , 4 - D at 8 oz. + 1 / 2 ( 4 0 7 o active) 2 , 4 - D as a weed control on Zoysia. This rate may be too phytotoxic for use on the bents, or bluegrasses. Another method proposed was that of hydr-seeding, or actually hydro stolonizing. The stolons would be mixed with a mulch, a small amount of fertilizer, and water. They are then sprayed over the area to be planted. One problem that should be taken care of involves the mulch wrapping around the stolons and preventing the stolons from touching the soil. They are then subjected to drying and subsequent loss. This can be corrected where light rolling is practical. The wet mulch is definite benefit to the stolon establishment. Apreferred treatment was to use mulch after stolons were planted. Some time was devoted to the discussion of a central body for the development and preservation of foundation planting stock that would be for sale to a potential consumer as sod growers. The need for this is apparent when you see the many various strains of bentgrass that are sold as Toronto, Cohansey, and Washington. This is true for the other superior strains of soloniied bents. The certification program for Evansville Creeping Bentgrass is a desirable step. An organization, The Sod Growers of Mid-America, formerly the Sod Growers of Illinois, is interested in many of the problems we have discussed. This group is open to membership. Information may be received from Mr. Ben Warren, Warren's Turf Nursery, Palos Park, Illinois. HUMAN COMFORT OUT-OF-DOORS James E. Newman, Dept. of Agronomy Purdue University What are the conditions that produce human comfort out-of-doors? If you should ask ten different individuals what each considered to be ideal weather for being outside, you would probably get ten different answers. Often individual responses will vary according to his or her likes and dislikes for outdoor activities. Also, there are real differences among individuals as to how each responds to the weather elements. To gain some insight, in a scientific way, as to when an individual is comfortable outside, let us examine what constitutes human comfort. First of all,periods of rainfall can be eliminated, since most people prefer to avoid being all wet, both figurately and actuvally. Secondly, one must ask what combination of weather elements produces the kind of outdoor conditions that lead to human comfort and activity. From recently reported bio-climatological research in Europe, we learn that human comfort outside is related primarily to four environmental factors, or weather elements. They are (1) the temperature, (2) the humidity, (3) the amount of sunshine or solar heat striking a person, and (4) the amount of wind. Figure I pictorially diagrams how these four major weather elements interact to produce an environment under which various out-of-doors human activities can take place in comfort. Most individuals are comfortable in a shaded area, out of the wind, with temperatures between 70 and 80° F., and relative humidity between 20 and 807o. These combinations of sensible temperatures and relative humidities, in the absence of direct sunlight and wind, are kncwn as the "human comfort zone." This zone is the same indoors and out. It is represented by a heavy, dark line surrounding the combination of temperatures and humdldities in both Figure I and Figure 2. In fact, Figure 2 elaborates on some of the ideal pictures in Figure I. As shown in both Figures, ideal human comfort in average household or street dress covers a range of temperatures and humidities. This is proof that individuals vary in their response to environmental factors both indoors and out. Some are socalled warm blooded, while others are more cold-blooded. Thus, each person may require somewhat different combinations of temperatures and humidities for comfort. This is particularly true when the individual is at rest, or relaxing. "When temperatures rise into the 80's and 90's a fan or air-conditioning is needed indoors. Light winds add to human comfort outside when temperatures climb into the 80's. In fact, a wind is necessary for comfort if humidity stays above 50?o and the sun is shining. As temperatures drop below 70° F., heat must be added indoors and some direct solar heat is necessary outside for comfort. Temperatures between 50° and 60° under full sunlight are nearly ideal for active sports out-of-doors. Further, the comfort zone in normal street clothing can drop as low as 45°F. under full sunshine and little or no wind. Then, too, the comfort zone can shift up to the low 90's at night under clear skies with light winds and low humidities. Therefore, Figures 1 and 2 simply relate the proper combination necessary to create range of environmental conditions out-of-doors. Figures 3, 4, and 5 illustrates the average percentage of time during the year that temperatures and humidity relationships can be expected to fall within the human comfort range. Such illustrations, relating how temperature and humidity vary throughout the year, are referred to as climographs. These three climographs portray hourly temperature-humidity distributions during a ten year period for Indianapolis, Indiana (Figure 3), Minneapolis and St. Paul, Minnesota (Figure 4), and Jacksonville, Florida (Figure 5). The human comfort range, as outlined by the double dark lines, has been defined as any combination of temperature and relative humidity between 45 and 9 0 ° F., and 20 to 80%. Note the similarity to the percentages of time during the year falling within the defined comfort range at these three widely scattered geographical locations. At Minneapolis-St. Paul, on the average, 38% of the time during the year falls within the comfort range. At Indianapolis this value turns out to be 397>, while at Jacksonville it is 467o of the time. Preliminary calculations show that these figures seldom fall below the 357o, or go above 507o for any large geographical location within the continental limits of the 48 states. Therefore, on a yearly basis, the amount of time one can spend out-of-doors and be comfortable in normal street or light work dress, does not vary appreciably for most geographical areas in the United States. In contrast climates differ greatly on a seasonal basis. It is the seasonal difference between geographical locations that is so striking. For example, in Figure 4, nearly six months of the year (47 percent) is too cold, or both too cold and too humid at Minneapolis-St. Paul. However, at Jacksonville only 67> of the year falls in the same category. Yet, Jacksonville, being a sub-tropical location near the Atlantic Ocean, has nearly half of the year too hot, or too humid for human comfort. On the other hand, Minneapolis-St. Paul has only 157o of the time during the year falling in these same categories. There is as much justification for air conditioning buildings in Jacksonville as there is for heating systems in Minneapolis. At Indianapolis (Figure 3) nearly 5 months of the year is too cold or too humid; another 2 months are too hot or too humid. Yet, all of these seasonal climates at these assorted geographical locations have between 4 and 5 months of the year falling within the ideal comfort range. For Jacksonville, the season of human comfort occurs generally during the colder half of the year beginning in October and ending in late May. At Minneapolis-St. Paul, the out-of-doors season generally begins in mid-June and extends into late October. The enjoyable out-of-doors season at Indianapolis occurs over a 7 month period beginning in mid-April and lasting through midNovember, with much of July and August being too hot and too humid. In summary, the nearly ideal human comfort range for out-of-doors weather conditions occur mainly during the cooler half of the year in the southern areas of continental United States. Such weather conditions are largely concentrated in the warmest four to five months in northern continental United States. The ideal out-ofdoors season for comfort and activities are confined to a four or five month period during late spring and early autumn in the mid-continental United States. The total length of time during the year when an individual finds comfortable outdoor weather conditions does not vary greatly from one geographical area to another within the continental 48 states. no 100 PROBABLE HEATSTROKE ABOVE THIS LINE TOO HOT FOR COMFORT, EVEN WITH WIND ! ABOVE THIS LINE WIND N E E D E D COMFORTABLE IN CALM SHADE (INDOORS AND OUT)