"The best service a book can render you is, not to impart
truth, but to make you think it out for yourself.''

OCTOBER
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This NEWSLETTER is published
monthly by the Greenkeepers Club of
New England, and sent free to its members and their Green's Chairmen. Subscription price ten cents a copy, or a
dollar a year.
GUY C. WEST
Editor
312 Mt. P l e a s a n t St., Pall River, Mass.

sented under one head during the last
few years, we are clipping many items
from various issues during the past nine
years, and present them as proof of the
many varied helps to be found in this
one source.

B r o w n e d A r e a s on putting greens are
not necessarily due to brown-patch inHOWARD
FARRANT
Business
Mgr. fection. They may be due to:
132 R u s s e D.
t t Rd.,
W e s t Roxbury,
Mass.
Insufficient water.
Poisons in the soil.
Chemical burns.
October, 1935
Vol. 7, No. 10
Unfavorable soil conditions.
Starvation—especially no nitrogen.
The slack season of the year is nearly
with us. It is our earnest desire that
our members use some of the time
W h y Topdress Greens?
which they will have this coming Winter
season in the pursuit of more knowT o p d r e s s i n g greens is necessary (1)
ledge, and to that hope do we dedicate to furnish additional plant food for the
this issue of the NEWSLETTER. There growing grass, (2) to add a new lively
is a vast amount of interesting and surface of fresh unpacked soil, (3) to
helpful information in the files of any fill up the small depressions in the green
greenkeeper. Past issues of the Green and thus make the surface uniform and
Section Bulletin, Golfdom and other true, (4) to support the mat of fluffy
golf magazines, bulletins from the U. S. stolons and grass blades which continuD. A. and the various state experiment ously accumulate above the surface of
stations, past issues of the NEWS- the soil.
LETTER, and even advertising literature itself, are full of help for all of
us. Many of the articles and suggestions
C h a n g e the cup on a green as soon as
in past issues are now of help under the grass around it begins to show
present problems and conditions.
bruises from the golfer's trampling.
mid-summer, after a Saturday
Many books on greenkeeping in its During
of heavy play, be sure to
many phases are available for those afternoon
change the cups to fresh locations bewho would study a bit this Winter. Our fore
the early Sunday players arrive at
library committee will report along this the course.
line at the December meeting.
If you would have an interesting
evening, try our suggestion, and look
T h e r e is no good reason why any
over past issues of any of the above,
should exceed 8,000 square feet
or read over some of the literature of green
size. If they are larger, the increased
a few years ago. Look over advertising in
literature of five years ago, and ten expense is out of all proportion to any
years ago, and note the many improve- real advantages.
ments in the golf course equipment of
today. Note the changes in the golf
course supplies such as fertilizers of'The w e i g h t of a roller best suited for
fered.
a particular putting green necessarily
In the hope that all of our readers depends on the character of the soil. On
will try to interest themselves in some clays and clay loams, a roller no heavier
professional improvement this coming than sufficient to smooth the green propWinter, we have clipped several inter- erly should be used. On sandy soils,
esting items from a few of our sources very heavy rollers can be used without
of help, and are reprinting them to start ill effects. Generally speaking, use the
the delving for information. As we be- lightest roller that will give the desired
lieve that Herb Graffis and his well- effect. Water-filled rollers are popular
known Golfdom furnish the largest because their weight can be regulated
source of greenkeeping knowledge pre- at will.

M o s s on the fairways is almost a sure
B u i l d your tees large so that a given
strip of turf can have plenty of time sign that fertilizer is needed.
to recover from divot scars before it is
necessary to use it again. On many
courses, each hole has two tees; one is
T h e r e a r e two methods of thickening
allowed to rest and the turf recover
bent turf quickly. The first way is to
while the other is in use.
fertilize vigorously; the second method
consists in sowing redtop in the thin
spots, since redtop germinates quickly
E l e v a t e d t e e s require hand mowing, and grows rapidly in its early stages.
are difficult to drain and ordinarily reThe second method is a makeshift and
quire more watering than tees built at not recommended unless the bent turf
or only slightly above the level of the is in very poor condition.
surrounding land. For maintenance
eceonomy build your tees so that power
mowers can be used to cut the grass.
M a n y green-chairmen think additional traps are the sole necessity when a
hole is "too easy" and needs tightening,
Move Tee Plates Uniformly
but many a perfectly designed hole has
been ruined by this practice. It is genA d o p t a uniform method of moving erally better to change the location of
the tee plates. At many clubs, the the tee, which does not necessarily mean
workmen taking care of this job are in- moving it back. Sometimes a shift to
structed to look around the tee and pick
side or the other for a matter of
out a good thick belt of grass where the one
only fifteen yards will change remarkplates have not been for some time.
ably the character of shot required.
A much better method particularly if
your tees are large enough, is to use
only half the width of the tee at a time
and starting at the front move the plates
d t r a p s should be constructed so
back about three feet each time they thatS a nentrance
into them and exit from
must be changed. When the back of the them is easy. Otherwise,
players clambteeing ground is reached, start at the ering up over their banks
break
front of the other half and work back. down the carefully prepared will
sand
walls
This gives plenty of time for the grass of the hazard and make proper mainto fill in the old divot scars before any tenance expensive, if not impossible.
portion of the tee must be used again.
S h e e p ' s fescue and Canada bluegrass
have generally been found to be ideal
grasses for the rough. They do well
enough on poor, dry soil and are suited
to almost all parts of the United States,
especially the North.
J u s t because one fertilizer smells
worse than another is no sign the former is any more efficient. Buy your fertilizer on the basis of your turf needs as
established by analysis—never mind the
odor.
A l l s a n d - t r a p s guarding a green
should be visible from the approach
area. A golfer is entitled to know of its
presence and modify his shot accordingly if he so desires.

U n l e s s you are prepared to keep a
water hazard in good clean condition,
fill it up and cultivate rough or put a
sand trap there instead. Nothing is
worse on a golf course than a scumfilled pond of stagnant water.
If y o u w a n t your grounds crew to
work with efficiency, make sure their
hand tools are kept in as good condition
as the mowers and other course machinery. Spades, forks, rakes, hoes, scythes
and sickles should be examined each
morning when brought out for use and
if the working edges of these implements are dulled or turned, take a
minute to sharpen them up. The difference in volume of work possible with
sharp tools as against dull ones is amazing.

K e e p c o u r s e machinery well lubricated. Don't shove the drum of lubricating oil in any old corner of the equipment shed; find a well-located place for
it, easy to get to. Keep gummy dust
off the noses of the oiling cans. All this
takes very little time, but repays a
hundredfold.

M u c h of the costly work in maintenance is the result of ill-considered
construction. When building or revamping, don't lose sight of the maintenance
work that will have to be done.

E q u i p m e n t b a r n s , caddie shelters and
parking spaces should be screened with
shrubbery. Emphasize the
Now is the time to start thinking trees and
features of a golf course; conabout improving those weak golf holes natural
on the course. Collect several hundred ceal the accessories.
score cards of actual rounds played by
your members, dubs and shart-shooters,
average the strokes needed on each hole
In p l a n n i n g parking space for memof the layout separately, and you will ber's automobiles, figure on an acre of
be able to pick out the holes that need ground for every 200 cars.
tightening up.
Don't be guided by popular opinion.
Just because the conviction has grown
R e s p o n s i b i l i t y for replacing divots
that Number Five is too easy, is no rea- should be fastened on the caddies. Drill
son to tear up the hole. Very possibly, it into their heads that they MUST reyour averages will disclose that two or trieve and tamp into place every divot
three others are poorer holes than con- their player takes. Don't leave it to the
demned Number Five.
players alone.

is important. The finest
golf layout in the world may lack interest if the surroundings are unpleasant, while a mediocre course appeals a
great deal to the majority when the
backgrounds and vistas are well thought
out.
Landscaping

N o m a t t e r how rushed the greensstaff may be, it doesn't take long to
pick up loose paper, sticks, rubbish, etc.
Workmen should never overlook a
chance to improve the tidiness of the
grounds.

W h e n t o p d r e s s i n g , remember these
two precepts: Don't apply too thick.
B e g i n now to think about your land- Work the dressing well down into the
scaping program for this fall. Shrubs turf.
and young trees should be planted then,
not in the spring. Fall is also the time
F l a g s should be colorful and flagto put out bird houses; weathering over poles
brightly painted. Not only is
the winter removes human and paint visibility
helped, but the bright colors
odors.
add to the beauty of a well-kept golf
green.
Establish a definite parking space for
members' cars and insist that this space
If a p r a c t i c e green is to be of maxibe used and no other. Nothing is more mum
to members, it should be
unsightly than a clubhouse road with plantedbenefit
and maintained identical with
cars parked at all angles and at half a the regular
greens
of the course.
dozen places.

which result in winterkill in its many forms are caused by
several agencies, but rarely, if at all,
from extreme frost. Variable winter
weather is more to blame than belowzero temperature, also methods in handling greens, and in the construction of
greens themselves.
The injuries

Advertising literature is full of helpful advice for greenkeepers. As a
sample we reprint the following information issued by the Ohio Humus Products Co.:
Better and More Economical Compost

By J. A. Smith
Practical experience, during the past
few years, has shown that materials en-

tering into and the manner of handling
compost can be greatly, improved upon.
The primary purpose of the compost
pile has been to produce a humus from
decaying sod, manures and other organic matters and to have this humus,
through ageing, become a fixed part of
the earth in which the decay has taken
place.
Since the production of good compost is one of the most expensive operations we have on the golf course and so
frequently the product proves unsatisfactory, the following methods of
economically handling should be of interest.
It has been demonstrated that a onehalf acre plot of almost any ordinary,
well drained soil, so located that it will
not become easily infected with weed
seed, makes a good beginning for a
compost bed. This should be plowed as
deeply as possible and reduced to a fine
state by farm tools.
Upon this should be spread forty-five
tons of good humus, or its humus equivalent of well rotted manure. This should
be at once disced until it appears to be
a good mixture of earth and organic
matter. If well-rotted manures are
used the quantities should be increased
several time's over the quantity of the
humus indicated.
From this on, the more frequently
it is stirred with the plow, disced and
cultivated, the better mixture of earth
and organic matter there will be and
the process of ageing will be speeded
up. If good humus, comparatively dry,
is used, within six months a perfect,
permanently mellow, easily screened top
dressing will have been produced and
ready for use. Rotted manures will require approximately one year of ageing
before a complete decay has been acr^N complished. If top dressings are needed
and the compost bed is wet, opening up
with a spike harrow, on a bright day
with a drying wind, will quickly allow
the screening of the top inch or more.
Upon this area it is possible to produce approximately 500 tons of good top
dressing at a total cost of less than
per ton, due to the mechanical means
employed. The area exposed to the
weather speeds up the necessary ageing.
As we all know, greenkeepers do not
merely grow grass, but have many other
activities. Landscape plantings often
are done by the greenkeeper. Information along this line may be found in

You Reap what You Sow
Y o u k n o w , w e ' v e been t h i n k i n g how
t r u e t h a t old s a y i n g is.
We've
been
looking a t some fine, v e l v e t y t u r f w h i c h
resulted f r o m t h e use of our V I C T O R Y
F e r t i l i z e r w i t h t h e u n i q u e H u m u s base
w h i c h does so m u c h to e n r i c h poor soil.
Of course, t h e seeding w a s done w i t h
our H O V E Y ' S grass seed w h i c h a l w a y s
produces
such
gratifying
results.
In
f a c t , w e h a v e n ' t e n o u g h s u p e r l a t i v e s to
tell you how y o u r greens w i l l look if
you use these t w o fine essentials. L e t it
suffice to say t h a t y o u ' l l be d e l i g h t e d .

Hovey & Company
150 Milk St.—Boston, Mass.
Han. 1 4 5 4 - 5 5

W r i t e f o r our n e w price list if you
h a v e n ' t received one.

many plant material catalogs. An excerpt from Little Tree Farms Catalog
42 will show this angle.
N o t e s on the Selection, P l a n t i n g a n d
C a r e of E v e r g r e e n s

SELECTION
Select evergreens to fit soils and situations. For most soils all species catalogued are suitable. On light sandy land
use Ground Juniper, White, Red, Scotch
and Austrian Pine, Heavy muck lands
grow Arborvitae and Japanese Yew well.
Near seashores plant Scotch and Austrian Pine.
For badly windswept locations specify
Scotch Pine, Douglas Fir and Juniper.
In shade Hemlock. In partial shade
Hemlock, Douglas Fir, White and Red
Pine. Under city conditions Douglas
Fir, Pfitzer Juniper and Japanese Yew
are best.
In foundation planting all except
White, Red, Scotch, Austrian, Limber
Pines and Blue Spruce. For accents and
formal effects the narrow columnar
shape of Red Cedar, Arborvitae and
Irish Juniper. Wider upright trees are
White Fir, Douglas Fir, Spruces and

Hemlock. For middle heights use the
various Cypresses, Hemlock and Japanese Yew. The low growers are Creeping, Pfitzer and Savin Juniper, Yews,
Mugho Pine and Globe Arborvitae.
PLANTING
This is a simple operation and nearly
always successful, if a few rules are
followed. Dig the hole wider and deeper than the spread of the roots. Take
off the burlap. Fill under and around
the plant with good soil mixed with onethird peat moss. Pack very firmly. During the operation thoroughly saturate
the soil allowing the water to be absorbed before firming. A three-foot
tree requires four to five pails. About
each plant leave a four-inch depression
as wide as the spread of its branches to
aid in subsequent waterings.
Mulch three inches deep with peat
moss. Don't neglect to use peat moss
when planting. Evergreens love it and
we cannot be too emphatic about the
benefits derived from its use. Saturate
once each week during the first month
and every two weeks thereafter. Superficial watering is not enough. Saturate
thoroughly every fall. If plants are
growing taller than desired, they may be
kept down by breaking off the terminal
bud each year. Side branches may be
treated in the same way. If in doubt,
ask us.
OCTOBER

MEETING

The R. I. Greenkeepers Association
met with us at the Wanamoisett C. C.,
Rumford, R. I. on October 7. The
crowd was rather small, due to poor
weather conditions in the morning. In
the Golf Tournament, the winners were:
N. Sperandio—81-14-67.
R. Robinson—99-28-71.
M. Greene—92-20-72.
R. Peckham—82-9-73.
The winner in the R. I. Assoc. tournament was L. E. Erwin with a 65 net.
POSITION wanted by an experienced greenkeeper with plenty of
knowledge of economy in maintainence,
and up to date methods with the newest
of bent grass. Write X. Y. Z., care of
the Editor.

T H E STORY OF A SOD

The writer thinks it will be interesting to all who are interested in the
care of golf courses, or especially in
grass growing, to know just what a one
foot square sod of the wonderful No.
14276 velvet bent did in two growing
seasons, and the amount of work it
furnished, as well as the education
gained by experimenting with it.
In the Spring of 1933 I obtained a
sod a foot square and put it on an edge
of a garden at my home and wondered
where I would use it. Being out of
work, and everyone cutting expenses,
I could not find anything in greenkeeping except a position in the middle z v>
West, so I decided to take a job offered
me as salesman for a roofing concern.
This was far from my idea of living, as
I like to work with nature, and I decided not to go to far, and quit.
My wife's father then gave me a
plot of land of some four hundred feet.
My nursery sod by now amounted to
about ten feet where I took care of it,
so I had plenty of plants for this small
area. I marked rows fourteen inches
apart and proceded to plant the velvet
about seven inches apart in the row,
in small pieces to make it go as far as
possible. I finished the piece the middle
of July and found that I needed more
ground as my nursery was growing fast
sending up plenty of shoots and getting
plenty of joints. One day the idea hit
me to try planting some of the velvet
in a four hundred foot piece of lawn
enclosed by our Cape Cod picket fence,
which I thought would be a good place
to experiment secretly. This was a bad
looking place to invite a nice grass like
14276 to put up, but in it went, about
seven inches apart each way. By this
time my wife's father had pulled up
some beans and invited me to use that
plot. As time went on and garden crops
came out, velvet bent went in, and the
last was put in a place where melons
were raised and it was getting late.
When I finished this piece of land it
was just ten days before the ground
froze, and I was wondering if it would
winter-kill, as the velvet was of very
small pieces. I had now a plot of three
thousand, one hundred and seventyfive feet, free of weeds by constant
hoeing and weeding. I kept the rows
between filled with top soil and sand,
but used no fertilizer as the garden
had been well manured for crops and
had been well cultivated.
1-

NEW ENGLAND GROWN
Winter-hardy,

Acclimated

Tested Seeds

BENT SEED
for

and

New England Golf Courses

Fairway Fertilizer

D i r e c t f r o m t h e f a r m s of

85 STATE STREET

A. N. PECKHAM

BOSTON

K I N G S T O N , R . I.

MODERN SERVICE
All who are interested in

Lawn Mower Repair Service

are cordially invited to visit and inspect our
Modern Service Shop
and also our display of equipment
OUR SERVICE

INCLUDES:

Every mower, including the engine unit in power mowers, is taken
apart and completely REBUILT (not merely repaired).
_ Every part is thoroughly cleaned and any worn parts replaced.
Cylinder and bottom knife are reground in a specially constructed machine
that assures you of perfect alignment and a true cutting edge. All mowers
are painted without additional charge.
We will examine your mower and furnish estimate without cost.
Truck service is maintained for collection and delivery within one
hundred mile radius of Boston.

IDEAL MOWER SALES and SERVICE
111 Cypress Street, Brookline, Mass.

Telephone Beacon 2898

The following Spring I found that the
grass had wintered in fine shape. I
rolled the rows down to mat the grass
so joints on it would catch in the soil
to push things along. I watched closely
for disease and have never found any
except a very small amount of pink
patch in the first planting. This did not
worry me, however, as I claim it is
very seldom seen except during a season that does not warm naturally in the
Spring before hot weather comes along.
Pink patch, so-called, was with us when
I did farming twenty-five years_ ago,
and farmers then gave the credit for
its appearance to worms eating grass
roots.
When the finished plot had been growing two seasons I sold three thousand
feet to the City of Hartford to be used
at Goodwin Park for nine greens to
be built by our good friend Everett
Pyle. Mr. ' Hollister of the Park Department, who bought my turf through
the recommendations of Pyle and Prof.
North, told me that he had never seen
so beautiful turf in his life. It had
grown together so firmly that strips ten
feet long, a foot wide and an inch
thick would not break apart if they
were pulled along the ground by one
end.
Pyle and his men came to my home
in August to cut and move the turf,
and he says that it took four men four
hours to cut it and there were three
truck loads to move to Hartford, a distance of seventy miles. Friend Pyle
also states that it took twenty-eight
men thirty hours to cut and replant
on a plot of two and a quarter acres,
and of course to put on the water.
After the turf had been taken away
I plowed and added twenty-eight yards
to soil and graded, then started to replant with the grass I had reserved. I
hired a man a full week, and had my
boy of fourteen help, to get some idea
of greenkeeping work. When this plot
was planted, I found that I needed
more land, and Mrs. Robinson's father
said, "Plant my onion bed if you wish,
as I don't feel at eighty-three that I
want so much to care for". Needless
to say, I took advantage of the offer
and started another fifteen hundred
feet. When this piece was finished I
still had more turf, and decided to cut
in some of it in an eight hundred foot
plot of German bent I had planted some
time ago. I planted four thousand
pieces in this plot, and finished up what
is now six thousand feet of velvet, and

it looks wonderful and free of weeds
by constant weeding and hoeing. Incidently, my front lawn plot cut in two
years ago is practically filled in today,
and today, October 20th, is being cut
a quarter inch and is comparable to
any green, which is wonderful in so
short a time.
The point which I wish to emphasize
is that in two growing seasons a sod
of a foot square has furnished work
equivalent to 1852 hours for one man,
and three days for one truck, and seven
days for a pair of horses. I feel that
the above foot of turf has just started
on its way!
R. F. Robinson,
Oaklawn, R. I.
T h e r e g u l a r N o v e m b e r m e e t i n g will
be omitted, to be replaced with the annual Frolic, to be held on N o v e m b e r 9th
at the S u d b u r y T o w n Hall, S u d b u r y ,
M a s s . T h e E n t e r t a i n m e n t C o m m i t t e e is
p l a n n i n g f u n f o r all, f o r t h i s e v e r y
m e m b e r e n t e r t a i n m e n t , w h i c h is t o b e
strictly informal. W a t c h for the notice!
Plan to be there with the w i f e /

Married, at Waltham, Mass., on October 5th, Diana Dion and Arthur Anderson, of Braeburn and Golf Committee
fame. Congratulations, Arthur.
The Board of Directors met on September 27th at the Braeburn C. C., and
on October 21st at the Juniper Hill
Golf Club.
YOU CAN'T GROW GRASS ON
THE SIDEWALK!

(from a leaflet of F. H. Woodruff
& Sons)
A g o o d , fine textured lawn that will
retain its color and that will resist long
droughts, is a source of constant pleasure and satisfaction. Like a coat of
paint to a house, it adds dollars and
cents to its value.
There is an old saying among nurserymen—"don't plant a dollar bush in
a fifty cent hole," and this applies
equally as well to lawns. Building for
permanence not only requires good lawn
seed but also a seed bed that has been
thoroughly prepared. Follow the few
simple rules below and have a lawn that
will be the "Talk of the Town."

THE CARPENTER GRINDER
WILL SAVE YOUR CLUB
HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS.

With "THE
a c o m p l e t e j o b of
between now and
will b e s h a r p e n e d

N o w is t h e t i m e t o c o n s i d e r p r e paring your mowing equipment for next
season's work.
C A R P E N T E R " i n s t a l l e d in y o u r s h e d , y o u c a n m a k e
s h a r p e n i n g a n d o v e r h a u l i n g y o u r e n t i r e fleet of m o w e r s ,
t h e o p e n i n g of t h e 1 9 3 6 s e a s o n . W h a t is m o r e ; t h e y
exactly the way you want them.

W r i t e u s f o r d e t a i l s of o u r B U D G E T P A Y M E N T

PLAN.

CARPENTER TOOL COMPANY

325 W A T E R S T R E E T

W A R R E N , R . I.

The grand condition of the 1934
championship turf at Brookline
was a tribute to

fauway
9

NEW PROCESS

the t o b a c c o s t e m fertilizer imp r e g n a t e d w i t h 6 - 6 - 4 f o r m u l a allsoliable p l a n t f o o d s .
Investigate
its e c o n o m y .

Genera! Chemical
Company

5 4 3 C o m m e r c i a l St.
58 Weybosset St.

Boston
Providence

Soil—The soil used in making the
seed bed should be fine and crumbly.
This assures good drainage and permits
deep rooting of the grass.
Fertilizing—Even the best soils will
be benefited by the addition of good
commercial fertilizer. Sheep manure
and bone meal are good, but we advise
the prepared fertilizers as they contain
all the different foods so necessary for
a successful lawn.
Seed B e d — A f t e r digging the soil to
a depth of about eight inches, rake well,
removing all stones and lumps. If you
have time, let it stand for a week. This
will give the soil time to settle and any
weed seeds will sprout. Another good
raking will destroy the weeds and will
correct the inequalities in the soil. Roll
and then rake lightly. Now you are
ready to sow the seed.
Seed—When you choose a lawn mixture, you should keep in mind that some
varieties of grass are for a quick
growth, while others come to their maturity later in the season and help to
maintain that even green that you want.
All of our mixtures are recleaned and
balanced to give a quick growth without sacrificing the later permanent
varieties.
Sowing—Use plenty of seed (about
1 lb. to every 100 square feet). Remember—a thick grass sod is the best
protection against weeds. To insure
even distribution, which is important,
divide seed in half and go over the
ground twice, making the second sowing at right angles to the first. Sow
on a calm day, for if it is windy, you
may help to sow your neighbor's lawn,
rather than your own.
Covering—After you have sowed the
seed, cover with a light sifting of sand
or humus, or, if these are not available,
rake very lightly, and go over it with
a light roller or spat it down with a
board. If it doesn't look like rain, wet
it well with a hose, using a fine spray
to avoid washing.
Mowing—Depending on the weather,
the seed will sprout in from five days
to two weeks. Don't mow the grass until it is three inches high. This gives
the plants ample time to take root. For
the first few weeks set the mower high,
cutting it about two inches from the
ground.
Rolling—At least one rolling each
year is necessary to preserve a healthy
turf. This should be done in early spring
or as soon as the soil is dry to settle
the soil about the roots and to level off

any bumps that may have been caused
by freezing and thawing.
Watering—Lawn grass can stand lots
of water, but it should be applied in
the evening after the sun has gone
down. A good drenching twice each
week is much better than a light sprinkle
every evening, as it soaks down through
and tends to encourage deep rooting.
Weeds—Dandelions and all obnoxious
weeds can be kept in check and eventually eliminated through a systematic
plan of care and feeding of the lawn.
Weeds thrive where grass is thin or in
a weakened condition. Starved or half
starved grass has little chance of combating the growth of weeds. A thickly
matted turf of vigorous grass having a _
strong root system is needed to eliminate weeds. Such a turf is not easy to
penetrate. The mat of well developed
roots crowds around the roots of the
weeds and thus hinders its growth. All
of which has a tendency to choke out
the weeds. Mowing often and regularly
prevents the weed from making any substantial growth and from going to seed
in addition to bleeding it until it is
eventually eliminated.
Reseeding—Every lawn regardless of
how thick the sod may be, is benefited
by a light seeding every spring and fall.
Sow about half the quantity for a new
lawn. Bare spots should be dug up or
roughed up with a rake, fertilized and
reseeded.
Usually it is quite difficult to obtain
a satisfactory growth of grass under
trees and in shady places.
Trees and shrubs draw heavily on the
soil and it is very essential that plenty
of fertilizer be used, both in the spring
and also in the fall.
All of the above mentioned suggestions are things that would come to any
of us if we would only stop and reason
the whole thing out, but if you will
give your lawn a little care, you can
have a turf that will remain a rich
emerald green well into the winter. The
three things to remember are:
Sow Good Seed
P r e p a r e the Soil Well
Use P l e n t y of Good Commercial
Fertilizer

We have received notice from Dr.
V. T. Stoutemyer of the Iowa State
College that their annual Greenkeepers
Short Course will take place on March
2 and 3, 1936, with Dr. John Monteith,
Jr. as the principal speaker.

Buy Seeds Now For Next Spring ?
YES SIR!

A n d have them delivered and paid for next year. Unquestionably
savings to your budget can be made by estimating and contracting your
seed needs now for 1936.
A l l g r a s s e s a r e n o w r i d i c u l o u s l y l o w a n d s i g n s of t h e i n e v i t a b l e
price rise are already seen. G r e e n s k e e p e r s by bring this suggestion to
t h e a t t e n t i o n of t h e i r c o m m i t t e e c h a i r m a n will b e r e n d e r i n g t h e i r c l u b
a real service. W e are p r e p a r e d to quote you on such a basis.

THOMAS W. EMERSON CO.
BOSTON, MASS.

"New

England's

Largest

Wholesale

Seed

House"

SB mgr ..

Another Worthington Money Saver

H e r e ' s a n e w d u m p body tractor.
T h e body is not hinged. It rocks. Is
easily removable. Or if desired, can
be left on w h e n t r a c t o r is used for
mowing , the body being so low it does
not interfere with seeing the cutting.
-

M a i n Office:
STROUDSBURG
Pennsylvania

-

Send for the catalog. Get the full
f a c t s on this W o r t h i n g t o n Cost Cutting E q u i p m e n t . See for yourself the
m a n y w a y s we can cut down your
c u t t i n g costs.

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Lower

Sales A g e n c i e s fn A l l
P r i n c i p a l C i t i e s of
U. S. A .

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GREENS SWEEPERS
BEAUTIFY YOUR GREENS
a n d e c o n o m i z e in u p k e e p w i t h S p r i n g f i e l d L a w n S w e e p e r s .
Used and r e c o m m e n d e d by Golf G r e e n s Specialists

everywhere.

M a d e l a r g e l y of w e a t h e r r e s i s t i n g a l u m i n u m , m a k i n g t h e m v e r y l i g h t
a n d e a s y t o r u n . I n d i s p e n s a b l e f o r q u i c k l y r e m o v i n g all u n d e s i r a b l e
m a t t e r f r o m the greens, such as leaves, sticks, stones, worm-casts, anthills, e t c . A l s o i n v a l u a b l e f o r c o n t r o l of b r o w n p a t c h , a n d i n w o r k i n g
in a n d r e m o v i n g e x c e s s f e r t i l i z e r . A l s o v e r y e f f i c i e n t in c l e a n i n g u p
a r o u n d t h e C l u b H o u s e a n d G r o u n d s . S p r i n g f i e l d S w e e p e r s c o m e in H a n d
Operated and Tractor and Horse-Drawn Models for the Fairways.
H a n d o p e r a t e d sizes a r e 2 8 " b r u s h , 3 6 " b r u s h a n d 4 2 " b r u s h .
T r a c t o r a n d H o r s e D r a w n sizes a r e 3 6 " b r u s h a n d 4 4 " b r u s h .
Distributed by

NEW ENGLAND TORO CO.

1121 W A S H I N G T O N S T R E E T

—

—

W E S T NEV/TON, MASS.