¿f-'vi WmÊÊÊÊÊm A guide to those who appreciate the orderly beauty of a well kept lawn O. M. Scott & Sons Company Marysville, Ohio Copyright 1939 by O. M. Scott & Sons Company Marysville, Ohio C O N T E N TS PREFACE Page 4 STARTING NEW LAWNS RIGHT . Getting a Good Soil Grade Carefully 5 8 14 Preparing the Seed Bed . . . . 17 Choosing the Seed Sow Seed Evenly Early Care 20 22 24 LAWN RENOVATION LAWN MAINTENANCE . . . . .. .. 27 31 Spring Lawn Treatment . . . . 31 Summer Maintenance Fall Lawn Treatment . . . . .. .. 33 36 FREE LAWN CARE BULLETINS . . 39 PREFACE There is no substitute for the pleasing effect produced by a sweep of velvety lawn. Even the modest plot of grass ex- tending from sidewalk to front door, if it is smooth, thick and green, conveys a sense of orderliness and gives a touch of natural beauty. Many lawns, to the owner's dismay, are not quite successful. The reason is not always lack of interest or care. Some- times a word from those experienced in turf growing may remove an unperceived handicap and cause two blades to grow where but one could grow before. is provided This little booklet is prepared particu- larly to help those who are building new lawns. A bulletin service on maintenance problems in LAWN CARE which will be sent five times a year for the asking. A service is also offered in soil testing, weed and pest identification, and almost any other problem pertaining to lawns—all without charge. Starting New Lawns Right The building of a home is a matter of joy, despite all the incidental trials. Arrangement of rooms, architectural design and pleasing appear- ance become matters of justifiable pride. Certainly, the setting of the house, its lawn, shrubbery and trees, ought not to be slighted. Such matters as the saving of topsoil, the season of planting, the investment that will be involved are worth advance consideration. The outlay necessary for the building of a lawn should be foreseen. One cannot afford to pinch on the final operations. There will be some expense in soil preparation. Fertilizer will be needed to give the seedlings a good start. It is very important that a high quality seed be used. The use of inferior seed containing chaff, weeds and coarse grasses can easily nullify all of the preliminary preparation of a lawn. Best Time for Seeding Many new lawns do not turn out as well as expected because they were seeded at the wrong time. The best season, except in the extremt north, is early fall. A safe general rule is to sow lawn seed in the autumn after the heavy evening dews begin, which is usually soon after August 15. The cool, moist weather normally experi- enced then is excellent for the germination of grass seeds and for the development of sturdy seedlings. The fall planting season extends through September and October. In spite of the fact that the best time is early autumn, most grass seed is planted in the spring. A good lawn can be produced by early spring sowing, but it takes more attention than one sown in autumn. With sufficient water and hand weeding, lawns may be sown even into summer with prospects of reasonable success. If a lawn is ready for seeding in late spring, it might be well to consider sowing a temporary lawn or even a cover crop with the intention of building the permanent lawn in early fall. Save the Topsoil Before actually starting work, the careful lawn builder will examine his subsoil and top- soil condition. The subsoil lies beneath a darker, surface layer of topsoil. It is the material thrown out of basement and sewer excavations. Subsoil usually has a lighter color but heavier texture. It is lacking in necessary humus and plant nutrients. Unfortunately, many must try to grow a lawn on it because their good topsoil was buried in build- ing operations. Theirs is a discouraging task. The topsoil is the part of Mother Earth from which plant life springs. Its significant ingre- dient is humus, the decayed remains of plants and animals. It is said that it takes 5000 years of warming sun, moistening rains, and activity of friendly bacteria to produce six inches of topsoil. Yet all this may be lost by the lawn builder, if it is covered with subsoil from the cellar excava- tion. The work of centuries may be undone in a few hours. Such loss can be made good only through the expensive and frequently unsatisfactory method of buying topsoil. Reasonable care in conserving the original topsoil will be well rewarded. Be- fore building operations are begun it should be scraped off and put into a pile out of the way to be replaced later. The topsoil will be the home of the grass plants. In it their roots are anchored and their food obtained. If the topsoil is shallow, poor in humus and faulty in texture, the time to change it is before the seed is sown. A depth of six inches, or even four, may suffice, though eight inches is better. A greater depth of topsoil is needed where the subsoil condition is very poor. People often lose sight of the fact that a lawn is made up of millions of small living grass plants. These plants cannot thrive in a heavy, compact soil any more than can flowers. It is not uncommon to find a depth of one or two feet of loamy, rich soil provided in flower beds, while an effort is made to grow grass plants on an adjacent area of inert subsoil. GETTING A GOOD SOIL It is the mechanical consistency of soil and not its richness that is of basic importance. If its texture is good, fertility may be easily supplied through the use of the right grass food. The texture of a soil is determined by the size of the particles which dominate it. These par- ticles may be coarse, medium or fine. The coarser ones are gravel and sand; the finer ones are silt and clay. Individual particles of gravel and sand are easily distinguished by the eye; those of silt and clay are not. Clay soils have the characteristic of being poorly drained, which causes them to dry out slowly and bake hard after drying. Clay is fine grained earth composed of particles from the decomposition of rock. It is hard when dry, and plastic or sticky when wet. Subjected to great heat it becomes like stone. Sandy soils are just the opposite, permitting rapid drainage, drying out very quickly and remaining loose. Another component of better soils is partially decayed organic matter called humus. This im- proves soil structure and acts as a reservoir for moisture and plant nutrients. Best Soil Type The ideal lawn soil is a mixture of these various particles and humus in such proportions as to produce a loam, silt loam, or sandy loam soil. Such a soil is friable and works readily even when wet. It is usually dark brown to black in color, depending on the quantity of humus present and the color of the minerals from which it originated. Soil color is often deceiving. Many soils that are light brown or red when dry have the appear- ance of a dark, rich soil when wet. It is not a good idea to judge a soil by its color when it is moist. Some of the darkest soils are simply worn out muck and not suitable for lawns. The mechanical nature of a soil can be deter- mined by a simple experiment. Take a sample of the soil, wet it thoroughly and roll into a ball, exerting as little pressure as possible. Allow it to dry a couple of days under normal room con- ditions. Then drop the ball to a hard surface from a height of three feet. If it crumbles readily it can be considered of good mechanical consis- tency. If it remains intact there is too much clay. If it goes all to pieces or crumbles in the hand there is too much sand. Soils of heavier texture than a loam will pro- duce a good lawn if the subsoil is not too clayey or poorly drained. Such soils must not be worked when wet or they will pack and be worse than before. For the same reason clay soils will be damaged if rolled with a heavy roller. It is possible to have good lawns on sandy soils (except blow sand or beach sand) if they are watered frequently during dry seasons, pos- sibly every day. Frequent applications of fer- tilizer are also necessary because food element!, are rapidly washed through the soil. Securing Weedfree Soils If it is necessary to purchase topsoil an inspec- tion should be made of the source of supply. A garden area that has been cultivated for years is usually quite free from weeds while an area covered with all kinds of wild growth should be eyed with suspicion. Whenever there is any doubt, obtain a sample of the soil sufficiendy in advance to make a test for weed growth. By keeping the soil moist and warm for a few weeks the type and quantity of weeds will soon become evident. It takes three cubic yards of soil to add one inch on 1000 square feet. Improving Soil Texture In building a new lawn, the native soil must ordinarily be used. Often it is not desirable but it may be made more suitable. Any soil of poor texture can be improved by mixing with it suffi- cient quantities of soil of opposite texture. For example, 15% to 20% by bulk of clay added to a sandy soil and thoroughly mixed with it will produce a more compact soil with greater moisture holding capacity. It should be spread evenly to a depth of about 1 inch and thoroughly mixed with the upper 4 or 5 inches of soil. Because of the difference in size of soil par- ticles a given volume of clay has a much greater modifying effect on sand than the same amount of sand has on clay. To make any appreciable change on a heavy clay soil requires 40% to 50% by bulk of coarse, sharp sand. As much as V/2 or 2 inches of sand must be mixed with 3 or 4 inches of clay to effect any real change. Adding Organic Matter Even though a soil has proper texture it needs organic matter to support a good lawn. It is the lack of humus that makes subsoil undesirable. Humus tends to lighten heavy soils and per- mit a freer movement of air and moisture. It also improves sandy soils by tying the sand par- ticles together, thereby increasing their water holding capacity. Under these ideal conditions plant food undergoes the chemical change that makes it available to the grass. There are several good sources of organic mat- ter. Some of the best are the green manuring crops such as a fall sowing of field rye at 3 pounds per 1000 square feet. This should be turned under in April when green and succu- lent. Soybeans sown in late spring at the same rate will add a substantial amount of humus. The crop should be turned under about the first of August and the area placed in cultivation for about a month to allow for decomposition and settling of the seed bed before fall sowing. Farm manure is an excellent source of organic matter. It will greatly improve soils if applied at the rate of 1 or 2 cubic yards to every 1000 square feet. Unless thoroughly rotted it is apt to contain many seeds of troublesome weeds. Spent mushroom soil is a mixture of horse manure and soil which has been used in a mush- room bed for about a year. It has about the same value as ordinary farm manure, is usually free from weeds and has a good texture. Peat is another source of humus. Imported peat is available in almost any section of the country. Some localities produce domestic peat, although not all of it is good for lawns. Most baled peat is delivered in a very dry con- dition. If used that way and the lawn seeded immediately there may be trouble because the peat will draw moisture from the soil and de- prive the seedlings of it. If time permits, peat should be mixed into the lawn soil about a month before seeding. If this is not possible, it should be spread out in a shallow pile and exposed to the weather for several weeks, or it may be soaked with a fine spray from the hose until it is thoroughly moist. This takes several hours for each bale. To bring the humus content to a desirable amount, 15% to 20% of peat by volume is re- quired. In preparing the soil to a depth of 4 inches, about an inch layer of peat should be spread and mixed thoroughly into the soil. One bale of peat covers 300 square feet to a depth of one inch. Muck is an advanced stage in the decay of domestic peat. Where available cheaply and free from toxic acids, it can be used in the same manner as recommended for peat. When using organic matter it is important to get it thoroughly mixed with the soil. If this is not done the layers of organic material will interfere with the natural movement of moisture in the soil and will discourage deep penetration of the roots. Some contractors and nurserymen have special cultivating machinery which does the mixing much better and cheaper than can be done by hand. It is better to buy organic materials on the basis of volume, such as bales or cubic yards. If purchased on the basis of weight the buyer is apt to pay an exorbitant price for the moisture contained. GRADE CAREFULLY Certain points must govern the grading, in- cluding the elevation of the house, sidewalk or curb and trees. The grade between these fixed points should be pleasing to the eye and sloped sufficiently to permit adequate surface drainage. Depressions in which water will stand and ice form should be avoided, as either condition is injurious to grass. One point often overlooked is the importance of subsoil grading. This grade ought to be parallel with the desired final lawn surface but at a sufficiently lower elevation to take care of the depth of topsoil to be added later. Only then will uniform soil and drainage conditions prevail. When the final elevation is to be lower or higher than the original surface, the change should be made in the subsoil grade after first removing the topsoil. Except on very small lawns it is advisable to set a few grade stakes at the house foundation line and at opposite known grade points such as the curb or sidewalk. If the grade is to be uniform, stretch a strong cord between these stakes at a height of 3 or 4 inches above what is to be the final grade so raking and leveling can be done without having to remove the cords. When conditions will allow for a sloping or rolling grade set stakes 20 to 30 feet apart at various points. Then connect these stakes with cord and view the line thus formed from some distance. Adjust the cords until a pleasing effect is presented by the network of cords. On large lawns it is well to employ surveying equipment to establish grade lines. For medium size lawns an inexpensive type of spirit level is accurate for distances up to 75 feet. It is best to use a level of some type wherever it is de- sired to have two points at the same level or at some predetermined fall. A slope of one foot in 100 feet is considered ideal for pleasing appear- ance and good surface drainage. Depressions should be filled only with soil. Spots filled with stones or rubbish may cause trouble for years by uneven settling and inter- ference with water supply and drainage. It will be clear that the desired depth of top- soil must have been previously determined. Since the topsoil will settle it should be an inch or two higher than the desired final grade. For best results there should be a gradual change from subsoil to topsoil. This can be accomplished by mixing a little of the topsoil into the subsoil so there is no definite line between the two. During grading operations is a good time to see about the installation of underground utility conduits as well as drainage and sanitary sewers. See that valuable topsoil is not lost in backfilling the trenches or that sticky clay subsoil is not mixed with good loam, as so often happens. If necessary to change the grade under trees some provision must be made to protect their roots. This is a job for an experienced tree man. Tile Drainage If the soil is very heavy or clayey, it may be desirable to install a tile drainage system. This should be done after the subsoil is graded but before the topsoil is replaced. The soil should be fairly dry at the time, as a wet clay soil may become puddled around the tile. The bottom of the trenches should be at a depth of to 2 feet including the depth of the topsoil, and the lines spaced not over 20 to 25 feet apart. Ordinary porous farm tile should be employed in lawn drainage and not the vitrified or sewer tile. To allow for entrance of water as well as for expansion, there should be at least one- fourth inch between the joints of porous tile. The minimum effective fall is 3 inches to each 100 feet. This grade must be set with a leveling device, as the eye cannot be trusted. Laterals must enter the main line at an angle of 45 degrees or less, and with the fall of the water. Three inch tile may be used for laterals up to 400 feet in length, and 4 inch for later- als up to 1000 feet. An outlet is usually available in a city storm sewer system. If not, dry wells may be used. Tile lines must be covered with gravel, cracked stones or cinders to a depth of 6 or 8 inches before filling in the trench, otherwise they will soon fill up with silt and mud. PREPARING THE SEED BED After the installation of tile lines, completion of subsoil grading and other preliminary steps, the lawn builder should again turn his attention to the topsoil. The care exercised in preparing soil to receive the seed will have an important effect on the final result. It may determine whether the growth is spotty or even and whether the lawn is rough or smooth. Except on very large areas, the final prepara- tion is best accomplished with hand tools, par- ticularly rakes and heavy hoes. All sticks, stones and other debris should be removed. A finely pulverized and smooth surface can be obtained by the alternate use of the rake, hoe and me- dium weight lawn roller. Rolling is especially important as it will reveal high and low spots which can be readily adjusted. The upper inch of soil is where the tiny grass seedling must get its start. It should be as fine as possible and just slightly moist. A good seed bed can never be obtained on a heavy soil when it is wet. Rolling of wet soils is especially dam- aging because it compacts the soil so that in dry weather it bakes as hard as cement. Adding Grass Food Lawn soils are greatly benefited by enriching them with a specific grass food. After the grass is up, this food can be applied only on the sur- face, and, to an extent, washed into the soil. The time to apply to greatest advantage is dur- ing the preparation of the seed bed, when it can be raked in and placed where it will encourage a deep, strong root growth. The plant food requirements of grass are entirely different from those of flowers because in grass, green vegetative growth is wanted while in the latter it is blooms. The best food for grass contains primarily elements that produce a gen- erous leaf growth in the right ratio with those elements that are responsible for a vigorous root growth. Moreover these nutrients should be in such form as to furnish a long lasting as well as a quick supply of food. The fertilizer selected should be distributed evenly and thoroughly raked into the upper 3 or 4 inches of soil. Some types are caustic so they must be put on several days in advance of seeding and then watered in. With other special grass foods there is no danger of burning and seeding may follow right after the feeding. Lime Acid Soils Several weeks before seeding, the soil should be tested for lime requirements as suggested in the February 1938 issue of LAWN CARE. Per- manent turf grasses prefer a slightly acid soil, but excessive acidity must be neutralized with lime. Grub Proofing In sections where White Grubs or Japanese Beetle Grubs are prevalent, it is wise to grub- proof the soil before seeding to avoid later pos- sibility of turf destruction by these pests. This can be done by working Arsenate of Lead into the upper 2 inches of soil. The required amount will vary from 10 to 40 pounds per 1000 square feet, as directed in LAWN CARE, March 1937. Good Lawn Foundation Many lawns are torn up and rebuilt every few years. If construction is thorough at the start this will not be necessary. Before sowing seed, therefore, be certain that these essentials for a good lawn have been provided: 1. Careful subsoil grade conforming to the desired final contour of the lawn. 2. Tile drainage in heavy and poorly drained subsoil. 3. A gradual blending from subsoil to topsoil, with no distinct layers of different materials. 4. At least 4 inches of topsoil having good texture and abundant organic matter. 5. Application of lime if the soil tests ex- tremely acid, and a generous application of spe- cial grass food capable of lasting as well as im- mediate stimulation. CHOOSING THE SEED The selection of seed for an initial sowing is a matter of greatest importance. Presumably, the choice will have been made long before the time for sowing arrives. It is a disastrous blunder to buy seed in a hasty or thoughtless manner. No matter how favorable the other factors may be, the sowing of a poor lawn seed dooms any lawn to failure. Cheap mixtures are likely to contain coarse grasses that have no place in a lawn, grasses that grow luxuriantly for a time but fail to make permanent turf, and weeds that will give end- less trouble. In sowing a mixture containing only 1% weeds, 100 to 125 weed seeds are planted on each square foot of ground. It is common to find cheap mixtures containing 2% or 3% of weeds. High grade mixtures are the most economical because they can be sown at a lower rate. More- over, buying weeds is an expensive proposition at any price. Creeping Bent In selecting permanent turf-making varieties for the lawn, Creeping Bent may well receive consideration. This has become familiar to many because of its extensive use on the putting greens of practically all of the fine northern golf courses. Creeping Bent makes a turf of fine texture. It has a rich, almost brilliant color, and grows so quickly that weeds are crowded out. It makes a solid carpet-like lawn which can be mown closely, but is somewhat more subject to disease attacks. To bring out its full beauty, a Bent lawn must be topdressed at least once a year. For further information about Creeping Bent grass send for free booklet BENT LAWNS. Grass for the Shady Lawn Grass varieties which do best in full sunshine make a poor showing under the shade of trees or shrubbery and north of buildings. For such spots, a special mixture of shade tolerant grasses must be provided. These are more expensive than other grasses, but they must be used to pro- duce successful turf where there is less than half a day of good sunshine. A complete treatment of the shade problem is given in LAWN CARE, March 1935. The Question of Clover The use of White Clover is a matter of per- sonal preference. Clover is not a grass and some feel that it has no place in a lawn. It grows in patches, breaking the continuity of an even textured turf, and it winter kills badly. On the other hand, Clover will grow on poor soil where the average lawn grass fails, thus occupying space that otherwise might become infested with weeds. It looks green after mow- ing, because it grows so close to the ground. It is a legume, and tends to enrich the soil with nitrogen. If it is desired it is better sown by itself rather than as part of a lawn seed mixture. In that way it is possible to get a more even dis- tribution. It is best planted in early spring. SOW SEED EVENLY The ideal time to sow seed is on a calm day, when the topsoil is moist and the surface is just beginning to dry out. If wind comes up during the seeding opera- tion, seed with the wind and not against it. If the area is large, the use of a mechanical seeder is better than hand sowing. Whether the hand method or the mechanical seeder is used, it is well to divide the seed and sow one-half in one direction, then the other half at right angles to the first. Otherwise, a uniform coverage will not be obtained because some areas will get no seed and other spots too much. An inexperienced person may divide the seed into four equal bulks and sow each over the entire area from a different angle. The rate of seeding will vary with the sort of mixture used. A high quality mixture will go twice as far as one of poor quality. Four to 6 pounds of such a mixture per 1000 square feet will be quite sufficient. A poor mixture, on the other hand, must be sown at a much heavier rate, and, even then, the result will be a poor, weedy turf. The percentage of permanent grass seeds in such a mixture is small, and in order to get enough permanent grass plants, the seed must be sown thickly. Cover Seed Lightly- After the seed has been sown evenly it is es- sential that it be covered very lightly, just enough to keep it from blowing away. If seed is buried too deeply the grass will not emerge. If there is an available supply of finely screened, weedfree topsoil, the seed may be cov- ered very lightly with it. If no topsoil is avail- able, bury the seed by raking carefully. The practice of using a layer of straw is not advised except for protecting slopes and possibly for summer plantings. A layer of peat or manure should never be used. It is very necessary to roll newly seeded lawns with a light roller. This firms the soil and brings it into direct contact with the seed which can then get moisture for germination. Unless a prolonged drouth follows seeding, it is best not to start sprinkling. Once started, watering must be repeated often enough to keep the surface from drying out and forming a crust which the seedlings cannot penetrate. If a heavy rainstorm seems in the offing sprin- kle the area immediately. By firming and bind- ing the surface soil, washout and erosion losses may be considerably lessened. EARLY CARE During the first month of growth, seedling plants must be watered at shorter intervals and more lightly than established turf. The root sys- tem is limited and cannot reach the deeper mois- ture. As the turf becomes older, less frequent and more intensive watering will encourage deep rooting. When seeding is done in the fall, natu- ral climatic conditions usually take care of the moisture problem until spring. Young turf is not benefited and may be harmed by protection from cold, so no winter covering is recommended. The First Mowing Seedlings should first be mowed when the grass is about 3 inches tall. The cutting may be done with a scythe or with a very sharp mower set to cut iy2 to 2 inches high. Dull blades pull the plant and break many of the tender hair-like roots. The first clippings may be left. If the ^rass is 2 or 3 inches long during the winter it vvill start ofi better the next spring. New grass should not be cut after danger of heavy frost. Reseeding the Bare Spots Except under very favorable circumstances there are apt to be some bare spots in a new lawn. The causes are many. Some seed may have been covered too much or too little, other may have been washed or blown away. Some seedling plants are drowned because of water standing in low spots, while grass in other spots may die for want of needed moisture. One of the main causes for bare spots in new lawns is a fungus disease called "damping oil." This is especially troublesome in wet seasons. Sometimes it kills the sprouts before they emerge from the ground, making it appear that the seed failed to germinate. At other times the disease comes after the grass is started. There is no prac- tical preventive except that the grass in well prepared beds seems more resistant. Just as soon as it can be determined with cer- tainty that new grass is not going to "catch" in some places, these spots should be reseeded. If a covering of grass is not provided quickly, these spots are vulnerable and weeds may soon occupy them. This is especially true in the spring season because weeds are much more active and vigorous than in the fall. Before sowing more seed scarify the soil with a stiff garden rake or a hand-type cultivating claw for the smaller spots. If the areas are low because of settling or washing, they should be leveled by top-dressing lightly with pulverized soil. After this treatment scratch some good grass food into the surface soil. The additional nutri- ents will stimulate the new grass to faster growth so that it will catch up with the older grass and keep ahead of weed competition. Abundant food will also hasten the early development of roots which should be well established before the sea- son is too far advanced. Following the soil preparation sow the seed and scatter it well outside the bare spots so it will blend completely into the established grass. Firm the soil by gently pressing it with a flat board or roll with a light roller. This brings the newly planted seed in closer contact with the moisture bearing soil particles. To speed germi- nation the newly planted spots must be kept moist at all times during dry weather. Lawn Renovation Whether to renovate an unsatisfactory lawn )r to rebuild it entirely is often a real question. If repeated attempts to establish a permanent, thick turf have failed, rebuilding is essential. The causes of previous failure, however, should be determined and avoided. If it appears that failure is due to lack of proper maintenance and care, over a period of years, then renovation may be expected to cor- rect the condition. The best time to renovate a run-down lawn is either in the early spring or in late summer when competition from weeds is at a minimum and cooler weather is favorable to the develop- ment of turf. Preparation Close mowing is not ordinarily a sound prac- tice, but in renovation, rake the lawn and mow it in the opposite direction with the mower set to cut as low as possible. Rake and mow again, changing the direction of each operation. The purpose is to remove the tops of prostrate creep- ing weeds and grass blades that have toppled over, thus exposing the soil and revealing thin spots. Loosen any bare ground with a rake. Some parts of a lawn may become compacted because of frequent trampling. Such places should be loosened by forcing a spading fork or similar tool into the soil to a depth of eight or ten inches. If the perforations are made fairly large and sharp sand or compost worked into them, opportunity will be given for pene- tration of air, moisture and plant food which will encourage deeper rooting and insure a bet- ter stand of grass. It is advisable, at this time, to pull or dig ou' as many weeds as possible. Dead Crabgrass plants should be raked out. In spots where weeds are very prevalent it may be necessary to eradicate them by one of the methods suggested in LAWN CARE. Spade up bare spaces to a depth of three or four inches, being careful not to cover the topsoil with subsoil. If the soil of these areas is poor, it should be improved as suggested on page 10 or replaced with good topsoil. If practical, topdressing the poorest parts of the lawn with one-fourth to one-half inch of good, loamy, weedfree topsoil will provide a better seed bed for the new sowing. In addi- tion such topdressing may be used to build up low spots and thus correct faulty drainage and improve the grade of the lawn. Enriching the Soil Feeding plays an important part in the lawn renovating program. An even application of a special grass food will encourage the existing turf to tiller out as well as promote a vigorous growth of the new grass. The quantity re- quired depends entirely upon the brand used. A low price may be misleading. The more concen- trated fertilizers cost more per pound but less per lawn since they will go three to four times as far. Furthermore, some fertilizers are caustic and very apt to burn. As in the building of a new lawn, it is important to use a specific grass fertilizer. This will prove the most economical as well as the most effective. Sowing the Seed Follow feeding by seeding. The amount of seed to be sown depends upon the condition of the turf and upon the quality of the seed. Two or three pounds per 1000 square feet should be ample, if clean, high germinating seed is used. Bare spots should receive about twice this amount. Rake the seed lightly into the loosened soil or, better, cover it with one-fourth inch or less of good topdressing. Follow this by a light rolling to bring the seed and soil into close con- tact. If this renovation is carried out in cool wea- ther the grass should be cut frequently and closely so the old grass will not offer too much competition to the seedling plants. In such cases it is well to catch the clippings and also to keep leaves cleaned off the lawn. Improving Shaded Lawns The grass under or near trees and shrubs is frequently thin and weak due to the competi- tion for food and moisture. In such a case the renovation problem trees and shrubs as well as the grass. involves the At times it may be advisable to prune the lat- eral surface roots at the edge of a shrubbery bed or hedge. Most important is provision for an independent food supply for these roots. A good grass food is quite suitable for this feeding job. This can be easily worked into the mulch of the shrubbery bed. The feeding of trees is a bit more difficult but this is very important for the health of the tree as well as the grass. If both grass and trees are competing for the surface supply of plant food both will suffer from lack of nourishment. After the food requirements of the trees have been taken care of, a surface application should be made for the benefit of the grass. If the lawn gets less than a half day of sun- shine it is necessary to use special grasses that are adapted to growth in shaded conditions. Ordinary seed mixtures will not survive. The best time to improve a shaded lawn is in early fall. Although this may require extra care in keeping leaves removed so they won't smother the tender plants there is a distinct advantage in seeding at this season. The grass has extra time in which to become established before leaves shut out sunlight the following spring. Spring seeded lawns, while often suc- cessful, are subjected to the harmful effects of shade from trees before they can develop much root growth. Consequently their chances of sur- vival are lessened. Further details about improving shaded lawns may be found in LAWN CARE for March 1935. Lawn Maintenance Even the best built lawn does not maintain tself. Under the fostering hand of man, luxu- riant turf may last indefinitely. Neglected, it is likely to deteriorate and become poor and weedy. Methods of mowing and watering are impor- tant. Excess soil acidity must be corrected. Food materials must be provided to replace those that are exhausted or washed out in drainage water. SPRING LAWN TREATMENT The spring maintenance program may begin in late February or early March and seed scat- tered where the turf is thin. At that time the soil will be full of holes, a honeycombed effect produced by alternate freezing and thawing. Seed sown in such ground need not be covered, as it is gradually worked into the soil by action of the weather. Cold will not hurt the seed. Many grass seeds germinate better if they have been subjected to freezing temperature. Scatter- ing seed on the snow is an easy way to do a good job on a level lawn. As the snow melts, the seed settles into the ground. Germination takes place as soon as the soil becomes warm, and the grass plants have time to become established before hot weather. One good practice often overlooked by home owners is the feeding of turf in late winter or early spring while grass is in a dormant con- dition. The work is out of the way before the rush of other spring gardening. As the ground thaws the plant food elements settle into the soil where the roots use them. Of all things that can be done to help build a better lawn there is nothing so important as regular feeding every spring. A fertilizer containing both organic and in- organic elements will supply a quickly available source of food and by the time this is exhausted, the organic portion will become available and provide a longer lasting source of food. If feeding and seeding is not done while the soil is still frozen, then as soon as the ground has thawed, rake the lawn thoroughly with an iron-toothed rake. This scarifies the surface and removes leaves, dead grass and other debris accumulated over winter. This is suggested only for well established lawns and not those started the previous fall. If the reseeding of thin areas has not been done earlier, it should follow the fertilizer appli- cation. Rake the seed in lightly or cover it with one-fourth inch of topdressing. Roll Lightly It is important that the lawn be rolled as soon as frost is out of the ground in the spring. This firms the surface soil and pushes the frost heaved crowns of grass back into the soil. A water or sand roller is the best type and should not weigh over 100 to 125 pounds per foot of width. It is a mistake to roll lawn soils when they are very wet. This may compact the surface soil so it bakes into a cement-like condition in the summer months. Usually there are only a few days in the spring when the soil is just right for rolling. This ordinarily comes before grass starts growing but after the time that deep freezes may be expected. SUMMER MAINTENANCE The important features of summer mainte- nance are mowing, watering and weed control. In some cases it has been found that a light feeding in June gives grass a better color through the summer months. This is not recommended when Crabgrass or other summer weeds are dominant in the lawn because they would bene- fit from the feeding. A good, clean, weedfrer lawn may be aided by an application of gras food at about half the usual rate but a poor, weedy lawn will not be benefited. Cut High It is common practice to cut grass too closely during the summer months. The height of cut as measured by the distance from the bed knife to the ground should be 11/2 or 2 inches. Higher cutting means a stronger turf because the longer blades encourage deeper rooting. This sturdier grass can better withstand the competi- tion of weeds, heat and drouth, insect and ani- mal pests, and the wear and tear of traffic. It is necessary to avoid close mowing, espe- cially during hot weather. At that time the longer grass protects the roots and stems from the direct burning rays of the sun and conserves moisture by reducing surface evaporation. Adjusting the Mower The height of cut of hand mowers is deter- mined by the adjustment of the wooden roller. 7here these cannot be adjusted to the desired height of cut, they can be adapted by means of special brackets or larger rollers. Remove the grass clippings in wet weather and whenever they are heavy enough to mat, otherwise they may be left without injuring the appearance or growth of the grass. There may be a slight benefit from these clippings in that they provide a mulch which reduces evaporation, but they do not supply the grass with readily available plant food. LAWN CARE for March 1939 contains a com- plete discussion of the lawn mowing subject. Correct Watering Artificial watering during the summer months should be considered only as a supplement to a deficient rainfall. An excess of water causes dam- age. Clay soils become puddled. Grass grows spindly and is more susceptable to disease. Acidity of the soil is increased and nutrients leach out. Incorrect watering has a cumulative effect which may become more apparent after three c four years. Daily light sprinklings are harmful except on sandy soils that drain very fast. Con- tinued light waterings of heavier soils produce a growth of roots near the surface, where they may be injured by the drying sun and wind. The purpose of artificial watering is to pro- duce a storage of water in the soil. Hence, it should be deep and thorough, rather than light and frequent. In the absence of rain, a thorough soaking once in four or five days, to moisten soil to a depth of four to six inches, is advised. It is a mistake to water lawns on a definite schedule. Some need water every day or two, others at weekly intervals. Soil type and ex- posure vary so much that no rules can be estab- lished. Whatever water is applied should be in a light spray so the ground can absorb it as it falls. FALL LAWN TREATMENT With the advent of cooler weather in late Au- gust or early September comes the best grass growing season of the year. Warm days, cool nights and abundant soft rains make this an ideal time to remedy summer's damage. Germi- nation is quick because the seed lodges in soil that has been thoroughly warmed by the sun all summer long. Vigorous roots develop as a natural preparation for the winter season ahead. Weeds are dormant and offer no strenuous com- petition. As a result of these conditions the grass tillers out and forms a dense growth. Should early fall seeding be delayed, then even winter seeding merits a trial. In practically all experiments such plantings have compared very "ivorably with those made earlier in the season. \—Although the seed lies dormant until spring, nevertheless it enjoys an earlier start than spring seeded lawns. In making the fall lawn treatment Crabgrass and other summer weeds should first be re- moved. It is not necessary to wait until Crab- grass dies. In fact, it is better to mow the Crab- grass closely and start the renovating procedure before it produces seed. After destroying the rank growth of the undesirables, a feeding and seeding program should be followed similar to that outlined for spring. Rake the surface to loosen the soil slightly before applying fertilizer and sowing the seed. Only the grass will derive the benefits of grass food applied at this time because weeds have already ceased their vigorous growth. It is useless to sow cheap lawn mixtures in the fall. The annual grasses which comprise most of these preparations will succumb during the win- ter so the seeding will have to be done all over again in the spring. Instead, choose a high quality lawn seed composed of deep rooting perennial grass varieties. Sow it uniformly, then use a light weight roller to press the seed into the soil. Remove falling leaves regularly so they will not mat and smother the new planting. There is no danger of pulling up the tender grass if a flexible leaf rake is carefully used. By keeping the lawn closely mowed the young grass will not be shaded too much by the old grass, but when growth begins to slow down raise the mower to cut 2 inches high. This will prever serious damage from a heavy frost. Stop ali cutting sufficiently early so the grass will go into the winter with a growth of 2 54 or 3 inches. The question is often raised about the value of a winter mulch such as leaves, straw, or manure. The evidence is against their use, be- cause any advantage they afford is more than offset by the danger of smothering the grass and the risk of introducing weed seeds. The only protection a lawn needs for the winter is against trespassers. If grass is walked on while frozen the footprints may show for months to come. * CONCLUSION If any one conclusion can be drawn from an abundant experience with fine turf, it is that good lawns are rarely accidental. They are planned. A properly constructed lawn, given reasonable care, is seldom threatened very seriously by weeds, diseases or insect pests. These poten- tial trouble makers are always present but a strong, resistant turf is least susceptible to injury. With a little simple planning a beautiful lawn is within anybody's reach. Behind the preparation of this booklet lies a sincere desire to bring you intelligent counsel concerning the building and care of one of nature's most beau- tiful gifts—a good lawn. May yours be a source of joy and a contribution to your contentment. FREE LAWN CARE BULLLETINS Any of these bulletins pertaining to your lawn Problems will be sent without cost on request: Subject Issue Sept. 1930 Ants Sept. 1929 Buckhorn Feb. 1939 Chickweed Apr. 1938 Chinch Bugs Feb. 1929 Compost Apr. 1935 Crabgrass Mar. 1938 Dandelions June 1930 Earthworms Mar. 1937 Grubs Honeycomb Soil Feb. 1937 Lime Feb. 1938 Subject Issue ... June 1931 Moles Mar. 1929 Moss Mar. 1939 Mowing ...Aug, 1928 Plantain Feb. 1935 Rolling , . Mar. 1935 Shade ....Aug. 1937 Soils Terraces ... .May 1933 Topdressing.. Feb. 1929 Watering Aug. 1934 Web worms... June 1929 LAWN CARE.—Published five times each year. A full set of all issues to date with index in paper binding—25c. In attractive loose-leaf binder of imitation leather—$1.00. CREEPING BENT LAWNS.—A practical discussion of the most beautiful of all lawn grasses. Tells how to plant with either seed or stolons. Many natural color illustrations. Sent free on request. * O. M. Scott & Sons Company Marysville, Ohio