i ,' ÈL. Câ Ê ■ La w n Care Copyright 1955 by the O M Scott & Sons Co, Marysville, Ohio PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA All rights reserved. This book, or parts thereof, may not be reproduced in any form without permission of the publishers. FIRST. EDITION • 1154 Planning The New Lawn Preliminary study is just as helpful to good lawn building as it is to home building. A better lawn is possible at less cost if early consideration is given to saving of topsoil, utilizing the natural grade to best advantage and making plans so the actual seeding will be done at the best time of year. Many new lawns turn out disappointingly because they were planted at the wrong season. In most localities the one best time is late summer or early fall when shorter days and cooler evenings are in the offing. Germination and seedling growth are better when the soil is warm but the days not quite so hot and moisture more abundant. The fall planting season may get under way in August, extend through September or later if weather conditions permit working the soil. A good lawn can be produced in the spring but it takes more attention than one sown in autumn. With good soil, proper watering and mowing, lawns may be started in the summer with reasonable success. Generally speaking, after trees are leafed-out, it’s better to plant a temporary grass or clover cover, making the permanent seeding in late summer. In. the mid or deep South, warm season grasses such as Bermuda or Zoysia are best seeded in late spring or early summer. It is well to budget the cost of a lawn as part of the cost of the home. The main expense will be in grading and soil preparation. If topsoil must be brought in, this may cost from three to five dollars per cubic yard. Unless a substantial fill is needed, it may be better to utilize the soil on the property in preference to a big outlay for imported topsoil. No matter how rich the soil, it is important to apply a good grass food just before seeding. The cost of good seed and fertilizer is not apt to run more than five dollars per 1000 square feet (50 by 20 ft), a small part of the total lawn cost. 1 It is of prime importance that the highest quality seed be used. It costs more per pound but generally less per lawn because fewer pounds are needed. It is unwise to risk the total lawn investment by use of inferior materials. The Lawn Grade The lawn is usually the dominant feature in the landscape picture. It sets off the house and enhances other landscape plantings. Walks, shrubs, flower beds and statuary are better placed at the perimeter of the lawn since clear areas create an illusion of spaciousness. The direction of slope should be given consideration in the lawn plan. In general a northern or eastern exposure is more desirable. The southern and western slopes are subject to more intensive rays from the sun and so suffer more from heat and drought. In grading, it is desirable to maintain natural and gradual contours. Avoid severe grades wherever possible. They are difficult to establish and maintain because of erosion by heavy rains and extreme drying in periods of drought. Abrupt changes in grade cause mowing difficulty. Soil Problems Probably the most important single feature in building the lawn is the soil. Good loamy topsoil is valuable and makes the best lawn or garden or farm. (See Chapter 2). Before the basement is dug or there is any filling or grading of the property, topsoil should be saved by scraping it to one side for later replacement. In case a substantial fill is necessary, this may be made in part with subsoil but the upper 4 to 6 inches should be good topsoil if possible. The fill dirt should be free of large stones. It is better if it is somewhat sandy or gritty as this will provide better underground drainage and will not compact as readily as pure clay. Many poor spots in otherwise good lawns are due to the effect of buried building debris. If the heavy rains drain slowly due to impervious clay or hardpan, installation of tile drainage should receive serious consideration. Growing conditions will be better for the lawn, shrubs, trees and the garden if surplus water is removed. Basement leakage will be less of a problem if the ground is well drained. 2 Scotts Lawn Research of Marysville, Ohio will analyze soils and make recommendations regarding them at nominal cost. It is advisable to learn in advance the general classifi­ cation of a soil, how it should be handled and whether it needs lime in addition to fertilizer. Plans For Watering There are advantages to automatic irrigation systems with pipes concealed underground. If such a system is to be installed, plans should be made in advance so this work can be scheduled in proper sequence. Even if an elaborate system is not included, it is a good idea to give thought to the location of convenient spigots to attach hose, possibly a type of under­ ground connection in the middle of the lawn. Tools For The Job If the owner decides to build the lawn himself, he may find it advisable to hire some of the heavier work done. For example, large grading jobs are quickly handled by bulldozers or tractors equipped with blades. A rototiller or similar cultivator may accomplish in an hour the amount of soil preparation that would otherwise require days of hand labor. Such machines and operators for them may be hired by the hour in many localities. Garden tractors with plows, disc and spike harrow will help in readying lawn soils. This equipment or the tillers will also aid in the incorporation of organic matter. Small hand equipment required includes spades and shovels, a heavy hoe and two types of iron rakes. The usual garden rake is all right for the lighter work but a heavier road-grading style will save time in cultivation and leveling. 3 A water ballast roller is helpful in lawn building as is a seed and fertilizer spreader. These machines may be rented from local hardware or seed stores, although it is better to invest in a spreader because of its importance in lawn main­ tenance. The spreader should be of a type that is accurate for seed sowing as well as grass food applications. Adaptable Grasses Fortunately the most desirable lawn grasses will thrive over a major portion of the Northern Hemisphere. There are excellent lawns in Alaska and Canada of the same lawn seed used so successfully over most of the U S from Maine to Washington, California to Georgia and even in higher eleva­ tions of Mexico. The most attractive grasses withstand extreme cold better than protracted periods of unrelenting heat. Thus daytime temperatures over 100 may be tolerated by grasses if the nights are cool so the soil temperature does not get too high. In the commercial cotton zone of the South, rank growing subtropical grasses crowd out all other grasses in hot weather, except in the shade. Since these grasses turn brown when the weather gets cooler, it is necessary to sow seed in the fall if a green lawn is desired over the winter months. Choosing the lawn goal in advance is a good idea. Gen­ erally speaking, lawns fall into three categories: 1. The deluxe lawn or picture lawn— requiring moder­ ately good soil, careful preparation and maintenance including regular watering during dry weather. 2. A good lawn, the one for casual living not requiring the finesse of care given the deluxe lawn. 3. The utility lawn developed where the soil is not so good, rough usage is expected, minimum care is desired. Most lawns can be improved by proper care so it is not necessary to be forever satisfield with a second rate lawn. The matter of seed selection for these different classes of lawns, is discussed in another chapter. Differences in the maintenance program are pointed up in various sections of this book. 4 Chapter 2 Soil for the New Lawn Soil provides the lodging place for grass. If it is good quality garden loam, the problems of starting and main­ taining the lawn will be easier. On the other hand, most lawns and many excellent ones are growing in stiff clay subsoils or light sandy soils almost devoid of organic matter. Their owners have exerted the extra care in management, feeding, watering and mowing that enables them to enjoy lawn success in spite of poor soil. Good soil is precious and one blessed with it should hus­ band it with care. One of the commonest mistakes in home building is the practice of covering good topsoil with exca­ vation dirt and building debris. Thus in a few hours centuries of nature’s accumulation of topsoil may be lost. Origin of Soils Soil is formed by the breakdown of rocks and varies according to the type of native rock, climate, slope, age, organisms and organic additions. The presence of decaying organic matter, known as humus, is the main reason weathered topsoil supports plant growth better than does exposed subsoil. Better soils are generally darker, due in part to the fact that organic matter tends to become dark brown or black as it decomposes. The humus-rich, surface layer of topsoil is seldom more than a few inches in depth except in valleys or alluvial plains where good soil from the uplands has been deposited by wind or water. Poorer soils are generally either sands or gravels, or the plastic, light colored clays. The physical condition determines a soil’s value — that is, the texture or size of the soil particles, their structure or arrangement and the content of organic matter. The richness or fertility of any soil is not of primary importance. It is easy to add the necessary plant food to soils to make them rich and to add lime to overcome acidity. Even after the lawn is planted, these can be applied at the surface, but it is difficult to overcome poor physical condition. The average ‘person has little choice as to native soil for his lawn but he can protect good topsoil by arranging to have it moved aside before building operations are started. Soil Types Soils are classified as clays, loams and sands depending upon the size and proportion of the individual particles. There are, of course, mixtures of all three and various gradations from one to the other. Unmodified clay is composed of extremely fine particles which tend to form a sticky, compact mass when wet. Heavy clays retain a large amount of water which is released slowly in dry seasons. When they do dry, they tend to bake as hard as brick. In fact pottery, tile and brick are made by puddling and heating certain types of clay. Clay usually dries to a light color. It shrinks in drying, causing cracks and crevices through which the deeper-lying moisture escapes. The extreme contrast to heavy clay is sand. The individual particles of sand are much larger than those of clay though the casual observer may think the opposite is true. Often clay looks coarser because minute particles stick together forming grains or small lumps. Since sandy soil is loose and frequently low in organic matter, it drains quickly and dries rapidly. Sandy or gravelly soils do not retain sufficient moisture for good grass growth in the summer months. They must be watered almost daily and even then the grass may suffer during periods of extreme heat. The Ideal Soil The better lawn soils are the loams made up of silt and clay with organic matter and sand to provide control or drainage of surplus waters. Those who have clay or sandy loams are indeed fortunate. Their soils are friable soon after heavy rains, yet have sufficient organic matter to carry moisture reserves for dry periods. Such soils are generally fairly dark color even when dry. Since humus imparts this dark color to soils, many have the idea that all dark soils are good. Not so, some of the 6 blackest soils are simply muck such as found in drained swamp lands. These become powdery when dry and do not have the body necessary to support grass growth. Many soils that are light brown or red when dry have the appearance of a dark, rich soil when wet. It is not a good idea to judge a soil by its color when it is wet. The physical nature of a soil can he determined by a simple experiment. Moisten a sample of the soil and roll it into a ball, exerting as little pressure as possible. Allow it to dry under normal room conditions. Then drop the ball to a hard surface from a height of three feet. If it crumbles readily it can be considered of good consistency. If it remains intact there is probably excessive clay. If it crumbles in the hand there is likely too much sand. Improving Soil Conditions Two procedures may provide better lawn soils. One is to incorporate liberal amounts of soil of opposite texture together with organic matter. The other is to import the equivalent of four to six inches of good loamy topsoil. When this is added, a gradual blending of subsoil into topsoil is advised, by putting down an inch or two of topsoil and mixing it into the soil in place. Heavy Clays. The first rule in dealing with the heavier soils is to avoid working them when wet. In such condition culti­ vation or heavy rolling causes serious compaction. Incorpora­ tion of sharp, coarse sand helps to make clay more friable. Fine molders sand will not do as it will have the opposite effect. Pulverized slag, charcoal, sifted ashes and similar materials may be used in place of sand. Large volumes of decaying organic matter help make soils more friable. To effect any appreciable change in heavy clay, it is necessary to incorporate 25% to 50% by bulk of the coarser textured material. That means a minimum of one inch of sand to three inches of clay. Chemical soil conditioners may help some soils but the expense is considerable and the lasting qualities uncertain. Sandy Soils. The coarser grained sandy soils are made more suitable by mixing in clay. Only a small portion is required because the fine grained clay has a greater modifying effect than sand. Possibly 15% to 20% by bulk may be enough, or 7 at the ratio of one-half inch of clay to three inches of sand. Generous quantities of organic matter are also helpful. Blow or beach sand will not support a lawn unless covered with 5 or 6 inches of good topsoil. Whenever materials are being added to im­ prove soil, they should not be left as layers, but intimately mixed. If top­ soil is introduced, an inch or two should be spread over the existing soil and then spaded, tiled or raked in so as to effect a gradual change from sub­ soil to topsoil. After that the balance of the topsoil may be put in place. If time permits, it is well to complete the soil modifica­ tion program a full growing season ahead of the lawn planting. Some of the weeds will sprout and they can be eliminated by cultivation. Another advantage is that the soil will settle and it is better if this occurs before seeding. A six inch depth of loose soil will settle at least an inch or two. In calculating the amount of topsoil needed, it should be borne in mind that 16 cubic yards will make a loose fill to a depth of four or five inches over 1000 square feet (50 ft by 20 ft). This will settle to three or four inches. 8 Rough Grading and Drainage The New R ough grading is usually the first step in actual lawn construction. The extent of grading required will de­ pend upon the condition of the ground, the cut and fill required to attain the desired final levels, and the attention that must be given the problem of severe slopes. It is well to utilize the natural contours of an area. Ex­ tensive grading is costly and may result in an artificial looking landscape scheme. Any lawn should have some degree of slope to insure run-off of excess water. The landscape men recommend a pitch of at least 6 inches in 100 feet. A change in grade is better if it is gentle. The maximum feasible grade considering mowing, watering and maintenance is 1 foot in 10 feet. Abrupt changes are best handled with terracing. The final grade of the lawn will be fixed by certain established features such as the house foundation, the sidewalk, street or road, or even the presence of valuable trees. As de­ tailed elsewhere, it is to protect important the grade above the tree root zone. It is to be assumed that valuable topsoil will be stripped and piled to the side, out of the way, before any extensive grading operations are under­ taken. The actual grading should be in two parts. First, the subsoil grade. It is desirable to have it of the same contour as 9 the final grade, except that it should be lower to make allowance for the addition of topsoil. Uneven topsoil depth will cause variation in lawn quality. While subsoil grading may not always be necessary, it is particularly important if the subsoil is impervious clay which will trap excess water during heavy rains or spring thaws. Such subsoil needs to be graded so the underground water can drain by gravity. Otherwise tile drainage should be installed or the saturated subsoil will prevent deep-rooting. Underground Installations. Tile drainage lines are best in­ stalled during or just after sub-surface grading. If the topsoil from the property has not been moved aside, care should be exercised to prevent the loss of topsoil over the trenches either in digging them or in making the backfill. A lmost any lawn that will be growing in a heavy soil or where it may receive seepage water from higher surrounding ground, will be benefited by a properly installed tile drainage system. The first require­ ment is to find a suit­ able outlet of sufficient depth into which the tile can empty. T he m inim um effective fall of drain­ age lines is 3 inches in 100 feet. It is better to set the grade with a leveling device. The tile should be 18 to 24 inches deep and the lines generally not over 20 to 25 feet apart. An effective lawn drainage plan. Laterals may be closer or farther apart as necessary. A typical drain­ age layout is shown in the illustration. The herringbone pattern is more or less standard with a main line of 6 or 8 inch tile into which 4 inch laterals are connected. It is better if they enter at an angle with the flow of the water. Clay or cement tile is satisfactory. They should be placed with inch openings as that is where the water enters and not through the walls of the tile. 10 It is desirable to cover tile lines with 6 inches of cinders, gravel or crushed stone before the trenches are back-filled with dirt. This makes them more efficient and lessens the chance of the tile filling with silt and mud. Control of Grading Before a cut is made or a low spot is filled, some levels or points of elevation need be established. On large areas engineering help is needed to set grade stakes, particularly if the distances are over 75 feet. The amateur can set stakes for lesser distances by using a string or line level. These are inexpensive levels, encased in metal hooks on either end for temporary fastening onto the cord. By stretching a cord and using the line level, any number of stakes can be placed at the same level. Each stake can be marked with a pencil as to the amount of cut or fill required. The closer the stakes, the more exact the final grade. Small lawns are usually brought to grade by good work with shovel and wheelbarrow to move the high spots into the low ones. Larger lawns may call for the use of a tractor and plow, a scraper and leveling drag or even a “blade” powered by a jeep, small tractor or bulldozer. Sometimes other types of road grading equipment are available. Reference stakes for such extensive operations should be established at frequent intervals so that too much time will not be lost in determining intermediate grade positions. Whatever the size of the lawn, the method of setting the stakes or the equipment used, the goal should be subsoiband surface grades of sufficient slope to drain surplus water so it does not collect in holes or pockets. The final covering should be good topsoil, if possible, to an even depth of 4 to 6 inches or more. Replacing The Topsoil If extensive grading operations are carried out in wet weather, the subsoil may be severely compacted before the job is done. If that happens, the hardened soil should be roughened by cultivation to a depth of 2 or 3 inches so there will be a mixing of topsoil and subsoil and not a definite layering. The latter will interfere with normal movement of air and water through the soil and restrict normal healthy root development. 11 If the grading plan or the soil condition requires addi­ tional topsoil, the depth should be allowed for in the grading operation. It must be borne in mind that loose soil settles considerably. A layer of 6 inches will shrink at least one inch and maybe two. Twelve cubic feet will cover 100 square feet to a depth of 4 inches, but this will settle to a depth of 3 inches or less. Grading Slopes and Terraces It is difficult to maintain grass where grades are sharper than 25%, that is a drop of more than one foot in 4 feet. Grass can be held on slopes up to 50% but that is quite a severe problem. As grades approach or exceed one foot drop in two feet horizontal distance, it is better to resort to ground covers or ease the grade problem by means of re­ taining walls and terracing. is often found on slopes be­ cause of erosion or care­ lessness in grading. Because slopes usually make grass growing more difficult, it is well to have as great depth of good soil as pos­ sible. Protecting Trees The poorest soil Grade 1 ft. to 2 ft. (50%) This slope will Grade 1 ft. to 4 ft. (25%) Pleasing to be difficult to maintain. the eye. Easy to mow, minimum erosion. change Those blessed with large trees will want to protect them during grad­ ing operations. An experi­ enced tree man should be consulted if the new grade is to be decidedly lower or higher than the natural grade under the trees. If the grade is to be lower, a sloping mound of soil should be left aroutid the base of the tree, extending out as far as the drip of the branches. As much soil should remain over the root zone as was there originally. Dry walls and terracing solve a severe in elevation from house to street. If, to the contrary, the level is to be higher, some arrange­ ment of a dry well or a fill of gravel and stone is required under the tree so the roots continue to get needed air. 12 Finish Grade and Seeding Preliminaries in lawn building include rough grading, in­ stallation of tile drainage and underground utilities. Next in order is grading of the surface to the levels desired for the finished lawn and, finally, seedbed preparation. It is to be hoped that at least four or even six inches of good friable loam topsoil is in place. If parts of the lawn were not disturbed in grading, they should be cultivated. Extensive areas may be plowed or better still, loosened with a disc set to cut three or four inches in depth. That is sufficient if the natural grade is acceptable for the final lawn. Loam or clay soils must not be worked when wet and sticky, because they will tend to clod and dry into hard com­ pact masses. Extensive working of most soils is better accom­ plished in summer when they are apt to be drier. Smaller areas may be prepared with power rototillers, garden tractors or by hand spading. In any method, care should be taken to avoid turning up subsoil and burying good topsoil. Soil Improvement This is the last chance to incorporate soil improving materials such as organic matter or sand. The physical con­ dition of the soil cannot be much improved after seeding so whatever is necessary should be accomplished now. After plowing or spading, the soil is apt to be rough and cloddy. Discs or power cultivators are useful in breaking up such soil as are garden cultivators, heavy hoes and rakes. Except on large open areas, the final soil preparation and leveling is best done by hand. On acreage seedings, this may be accomplished with drags, spike harrows, cultipackers and the like. Before the final working, it is well to incorporate lime if a soil test has shown this to be needed. The raw ground agricultural limestone is usually recommended and generally 13 applications will vary from 50 to 100 pounds per 1000 square feet or one to two tons per acre. Final Leveling In final grading care is needed to see that surface drainage is provided to all parts of the lawn. Depressions where water will stand, high spots that will be scalped in mowing, or sharp changes in grade should be avoided. One way to guard against this possibility in flat lawns of limited area is to use a leveling board in the final stage of seedbed preparation. A 12-foot plank makes a good leveling board if one like that shown in the illustration is not available. When used, strings are stretched with the “fall” of the land, 12 feet apart. The strings are held on stakes and located on the stakes the width of the board above the desired finished grade. Thus when the board is held edgewise between two lengths of string, it is possible to ascertain the high and low spots and adjust them accordingly. Seedbed Preparation. Alternate harrowing or hand raking and rolling serve to break the surface soil. Some clods will be raked out in the operation » and these may be used to fill in low places after re­ m i *11 moval of stones and rub­ bish. I s - ..., \ a £ -t •’• w V - if c * * . •. * k ■***. m ti* With heavier soils, the Wlth heavier soi|s> finished surface need not be as fine as can be de- veloped in a sandy loam. ^ If there is a good disper­ sion of pea-size particles in a clay or clay-loam seedbed, it is just as well to have a mixture of larger pieces, up to a half inch or inch in diameter — between the size of a marble and a golf ball. A deep dust mulch is not good because of the possibility of the formation of surface crusting because of the puddling 14 4 action of heavy rains or waterings. It is difficult for seedling grass to emerge through such a crust. A moderately coarse surface will not appear as attractive but will have crevices into which seeds can lodge and find moisture for germination. Seedlings will be sheltered from washing rains and drying action of the sun. Apply Crass Food It is essential that a generous supply of soil nutrients be available to the sprouting grass. Since it is more readily avail­ able if fairly near the surface, the application of grass food is recommended in connection with the final raking. Grass food can be broadcast by hand, but a more even distribution is obtained with a Scotts Spreader. If footprints or wheeltracks are much in evidence, they should be raked out before seeding. Grub Proofing. In the Atlantic seaboard states, grubs of Jap Beetles ruin many lawns each year. They are extending their operations westward all the time and along with white grubs of May beetles and June bugs are now serious pests around Pittsburgh, Cleveland, Detroit, Cincinnati and St. Louis. Where there is likelihood of grub infestation, it is a good idea to treat the soil before seeding with a pest control that will destroy grubs hatching from eggs in the soil. Selecting the Seed Too often lawn seed is purchased because of low cost per pound. Often such seed is the most expensive per lawn because coarse, large seeds fill up the package. They may not have the ability to produce a lawn but in any event they have to be planted heavily. It may well be necessary to use three pounds, of ordinary seed to get as many grass plants as can be obtained from one pound of the best lawn seed. Selection of a “Shady Lawn” mixture or a “Terrace” mixture is not the answer to either problem. The problems are solved by the right maintenance program as stipulated in later chapters. The important consideration in seed selection is to con­ sider plans for maintenance. Will the lawn be regularly watered in dry seasons, cut short, fed frequently and ScuTL-ed for disease. Then get seed for the deluxe lawn. If, in contrast, the growing conditions will be very poor, the use of coarser, hardier grasses may be the answer. A good plan is to select the seed firm in which one has confidence, then choose from the brands of that seedsman according to needs. 15 With few exceptions, the best seeding time is right after the months of hottest weather, when the days grow noticeably shorter and better conditions of moisture are expected. Usually heavier dews are typical of the fall season, and in many localities rainfall is favorable. Evaporation is less rapid than in mid-summer and irrigation less of a problem. Preparing the soil in summer or in dry periods may develop a powdery condition in the upper inch or so of sur­ face soil. If that happens, it is better to wait for rain to settle this dust mulch or water thoroughly before seeding. Otherwise the first heavy rain may bury the seed so deeply that it cannot germinate or may wash the seed out of place. It is all right to go ahead with seeding as long as the soil is workable even into November or December. The seed may not germinate until the following spring, but it will not be harmed appreciably, whether sub-zero temperatures are com­ mon or not. Spring seedings should be completed as early as weather permits to get root growth before hot weather. Heat is just as much an enemy of seedling grass as drought. The actual date of spring seeding depends upon when the ground gets dry enough to work. This may be February or possibly not until May. Summer seedings can be successful only if adequate irrigation is possible. Normal rainfall may sprout the seed but it would be unusual for nature to provide steady rains to support the seedling grass to maturity. How to Seed When to Seed to Whether seeding by hand or spreader, it is well to divide the seed, sowing part in one direc­ tion, the balance cross­ wise the first. This assures more even cover­ age and lessens the pos­ sibility of missed spots or windrows. Covering the Seed. There is no one best pro­ cedure for covering seed. The question whether raking or brushing is bet­ ter than allowing nature to bury the seed by action 16 of rain and alternate wetting and drying is debatable. Seed is sometimes covered by a light hand raking or by dragging a flexible steel door mat over the area. Rolling follows to firm it into the soil. A good practice is to rake after the first part of the seed is sown, rolling only after the second. A light roller is advised, just heavy enough to firm the soil, not pack it. Small lawns may be topdressed with an eighth-inch or so of screened soil or compost. The use of raw peat moss is a questionable practice since there is danger of the roots growing up into the peat instead of down into the soil. Protecting the Planting Nothing can or need be done to protect grass seeds or seedling grass except to preserve moisture and prevent washing during heavy rains. Many like to “mulch” after a late spring seeding. Clean straw may be used to conserve moisture (they reduce evaporation) and to prevent serious washing. Not more than an inch or two should be used and this ought to be raked off as soon as the grass is well started. Interlaced cord, held down by pegs, is often used to hold the straw in place. Coarse cheese cloth or even light weight open burlaps may be used to hold seed in place and conserve moisture. They should be removed as the grass gets a good start. Open mesh material such as used for handling oranges and onions makes a good covering to reduce erosion. This material (Erosionet) can be purchased by the yard. Anchoring any such material is a problem. Small wooden pegs or even golf tees are safer than wire or spikes, considering the lawn mower. Early Care While prolonged drouth does not harm seed, its germina­ tion can be hastened by regular watering to take advantage of otherwise good growing weather. Once the seed has started to sprout, the supply of moisture must be constant or the plants may perish. Two or three waterings with a fine spray may be required on bright days until the grass gets a good start. It is not necessary to flood the ground but the surface needs to be moist at all times. As the grass matures, watering can be less frequent but heavier. Young turf is not benefited, may even be harmed by any covering designed to protect it from cold. New grass should be cut when any of it gets close to two inches tall and with a very sharp mower set at 1 to l / 2 inches. Dull blades pull out plants and break many of the tender hair-like roots. Traffic should be kept off new grass, at least until after several mowings. 17 Proper Mowing T he principal purpose of mowing a lawn is to improve its appearance. Unless properly done, however, improvement will be temporary, for one thing is certain — this how a lawn is mowed has much to do with its health. The important factors in mowing are: 1) Start clipping as soon as there is any appreciable growth to be cut. 2) Decide upon maximum and minimum heights of cut for hot and cool seasons. 3) Try to mow the lawn before it has grown much more than a fourth of the cutting height. Frequent mowing is desirable. Looking to the health and appearance of the lawn, the one most important point is to mow so that only moderate growth is cut back each time. Through the centuries nature has endowed grass with the ability to tolerate frequent defolia­ tion but the roots will suffer if too much of the energy produc­ ing green growth is suddenly removed. Grass looks bad if tall growth is cut back because the lower leaves will be brown and scraggly due to the shading effect of tall grass. The Right Height The reader is referred to the discussion in Chapter 1 regarding his choice of lawn goal. The three categories of lawns are not rigid castes but it is well to determine what is desired and establish mowing plans accordingly. Mowing heights may be determined on this basis: Cool Season Hot Season inch ? V/2 “ 2 “ 11/4 2 2'/2 to 3 short cut medium cut high cut Deluxe — Good — Utility — In dense shade grass has to live on reduced ration of sunlight. Such lawns are better maintained at the medium 18 inches or high cut levels except when tree leaves are dropping in the fall. Disposition of Clippings This is largely a matter of appearance. If the clippings are evenly scattered and not heavy, it makes little difference in grass health whether they are removed or not. Clippings will be detrimental if matted so as to smother the grass. They may give the lawn a dull, brownish cast. Clippings are of negligible value in returning plant food to the soil. They have slight value as mulch in reducing evaporation. This is a questionable blessing since a layer of decaying vegetation at the soil surface contributes to the activity of harmful fungi and molds that may cause grass diseases in wet conditions. Clippings may also harbor harmful insects. Some utilize grass cuttings to advantage as mulch about shrubbery, in gardens or as humus-forming additions to the compost bed. Actually the disposition of clippings can be a matter of an individual’s choice as to whether he uses the catcher on his mower, rakes or sweeps the clippings, or simply lets them work down into the turf. If the unsightliness of the clippings can be tolerated for a day after cutting, there will be less bulk to rake up and carry off. Lawn Sweepers are excellent for gathering clippings and help give the lawn a better groomed appearance. Type of Mowers It is a matter of individual determination whether the lawn is cut by hand or with power, with the traditional reel type mower or the newer rotary types. The important con­ siderations are: 1) Select a good, machine, one that has the range of cutting heights needed. 2) Keep it sharp and in good adjustment. Many lawns have a brownish cast after mowing due to tearing or bruising of the grass blades in mowing. 3) Rotary mowers have certain shortcomings but outstanding lawns can be maintained if relatively free from undulations, surface depressions or high spots. Other considerations regarding mowing equipment in­ clude weight, ease of manipulation, ability to trim close to trees and shrub beds, danger to users and others. There may 19 be some advantage in the suction action of rotary mowers in pulling grass to an upright position in the cutting. Pattern of Cut If convenient, it is well to alter the direction and pattern of lawn mowing from time to time. One problem is that one of the mower wheels is traveling on uncut grass. This flattens a track of grass especially during lush spring growth. If a reel-type mower is operated back and forth, the action of the cutting reel tends to push the track of depressed grass down further and miss cutting it. This usually results in a ridge of uncut grass, unless the lawn is mowed a second time. One way to help overcome this is to mow around the plot as shown by the diagram. In round and round mowing, if the rotation is such that the clippings are thrown into the uncut grass, they will be chopped and scat­ tered a second time. Special Mowing Problems Steep Terraces should be mown up and down with the slope. To cut crosswise of the ridge or crown will cause scalping. If the slope is definitely south or west, it may be better to avoid short cutting because of the stronger bearing of the sun on such exposures. A taller growth of grass insulates the soil and roots to some extent and helps reduce soil erosion. Seeding Spikes. It is normal for grasses to shoot up flowering seed stalks in late spring or early summer. This characteristic may even appear in regularly mown lawns in some seasons. Scattered seed stems may hug the ground and get quite coarse. This is more pronounced in some types of grass than others but may develop in any lawn, especially one having bare or thin spots. The period of this seeding is usually limited to a couple of weeks. Extra patience in mowing, possibly raking up the prostrate stems, use of grass shears, sickle or grass whip may be called for. Another solution is to cut the scattered seeding stems with a sharp spade or ice hoe before or after mowing. 20 Chapter 6 Watering Lawns T he brilliant green lawns of the British Isles owe their beauty not to any closely guarded secrets, but mainly to ideal moisture conditions. Gentle rains fall fre­ quently and atmospheric conditions are favorable so there is little critical drying. Most sections of the United States east of the Rockies have an annual rainfall greater than that of England, yet the watering problem through the summer is more difficult. Evaporation during hot weather is rapid. Many of the rains come as heavy, dashing storms so that the water runs off the surface before it can be absorbed. There may be many such heavy rains during the summer with severe drouths in between. To offset this fluctuation and provide an evener moisture supply, supplemental watering is needed. Importance of Watering Taking the key from the British Isles, it is obvious that grass is apt to do better if a constant supply of moisture is available to it. That means the soil should not dry severely at any time. A watering program designed to replace moisture as it is lost will be good for grass. Generalized advice so frequently heard is to water seldom but deep. That may or may not be the answer to your lawn. Except in arid climates, it is seldom necessary to water mature grass just for the sake of keeping it alive. But care­ fully watered grass should be a bright green throughout the summer. On loam and clay soils a good turf can withstand severe and protracted drouth. It may turn quite brown, but unless cut too short it will revive with moisture. Sandy or gravelly soils may dry so severely that even weeds are killed. The amount and frequency of watering depend upon the type of soil, height of cut, exposure of the lawn, temperature and rainfall. 21 Some soils have a greater moisture retaining capacity than others. An abundance of organic matter acts as a sponge to retain moisture and release it to the grass as needed. Silt, loam and clay soils retain water longer than sandy, gravelly soils. Steep slopes receive less benefit from rainfall and irriga­ tion because of surface runoff. When to Water The amount and type of natural rainfall are the main factors affecting the timing of the watering program. A slow, soaking rain of a half inch will do more good than a driving downpour of several times that amount. When rains have been missing for a week or two, it is time to examine the soil to see if it is getting too dry. This condition may develop much earlier in the spring than usually anticipated. Bright sun and brisk wind evaporate moisture quickly and may set up a need for watering much earlier in the spring than usually considered. It is not advisable to wait for the grass to show signs of withering. Once the soil gets dry to a depth of two or three inches, it is difficult to restore opti­ mum moisture, especially if it is a heavy clay that bakes hard and cracks open. J 1 I i A lawn watering program cannot be scheduled by the calendar. The need for water is best determined by occasional examination of the soil. A good plan is to cut a small plug 2 or 3 inches deep w ith a knife or trowel. If the upper inch or so reveals any sign of dryness, it is time to water. It is easy to replace m oisture to th a t depth but if the soil is dry much deeper, the task is m ore than proportionately greater. The sure way to determine need for water is to examine the soil Some have learned to tell by the ’‘feel” of the lawn under­ foot when it needs water. As a soil dries, it loses resiliency of damp soil and there is a marked contrast to walking over a 22 DRY part 'of the lawn that stays moist because of shade from the house as against a part exposed to full sun. This will be noted especially in one’s heel prints. Quantity of Water As the soil dries out it should be necessary to replace only as much moisture as lost in the interval by evaporation and transpiration from grass leaves. From an average loam soil this loss on warm summer days may be 50 gallons per 1000 square feet. A six day total of 300 gallons would be the equiva­ lent of a half inch rain. The length of time needed to replace the loss depends upon the sprinkler and water pressure. A good type at 20 pounds’ pressure would need to run 2 or 3 hours. In the case of a sandy soil, the moisture loss should be replaced long before it amounts to as much as a half inch of rain. While such soils absorb water quickly they hold less mois­ ture and lose it more readily. They need to be watered more frequently, in smaller quantities. It is easy to check the effectiveness of delivery from a sprinkler during any given time by placing coffee cans under the spray and measuring the depth of water collected. The cans should be deep enough that water does not splash out. Watering Not a Panacea Pouring water on a lawn in the summer will not make up for lack of plant food or other deficiencies in the maintenance program. Neither will it restore turf which has gone off-color because of fungus diseases, beetle grubs, chinch bugs, or injury from a dull or poorly adjusted lawn mower. Many people inquire if chlorine and other chemicals used in purifying city water are harmful to grass. If water is suitable for human consumption or even for laundry pur­ poses, it is not likely to hurt plants. It is doubtful if enough such water would ever be put on a turf to cause any appre­ ciable concentration of chemicals. The lime in some water may tend to alkalinize soils but not harmfully except under extreme conditions. • • C rabgrass, is called watergrass by many because they as­ sociate it with watering and think “sprinkling” brings it on. Actually Crabgrass will grow in drier soils than will desirable grasses but like most plants it enjoys abundant moisture and thrives on it. 23 Proper Lawn Feeding Hardly one lawn in jive receives enough plant food. The number of outstanding lawns in this country would increase tremendously if all were to receive the right formulation of grass food two or three times a year. E ach of the millions of grass plants that make up a lawn is a living organism. It must obtain minerals and water from the soil and carbon dioxide from the air. The quan­ tity and combination in which these are available determine the vitality, the color and density of turf. Unlike birds or animals, a grass plant cannot go wander­ ing about in search of food. It must take what nourishment it can find in the limited zone of soil where it makes its home. Good feeding promotes deeper, more penetrating roots that enable grass to draw on a larger volume of soil moisture, helping it through periods of drouth. Moss is an often-present warning that soil is becoming deficient in plant food. Lime may be needed but usually feed­ ing is the answer. The Right Food The first step in choosing a fertilizer for lawns is to get one that is compounded especially to feed grass. A general flower and garden fertilizer is seldom right because it is prepared to encourage the production of blossoms or fruit. In contrast, the need in lawn feeding is to encourage green leaf growth and deep, sturdy roots. Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium are the main ele­ ments which grass needs and which are deficient in most soils. Of these, the first is of primary importance because it is respon­ sible for the green vegetative growth that is, after all, the lawn. A scientifically prepared grass food blends the three major # elements in the right proportions. 24 Scotts T urf Builder is the one lawn food, compounded especially for grass, becoming more popular every year since its introduction in 1928. Manures and Peats. The use of manures is not as pre­ valent as formerly due to their scarcity but many folks still have the erroneous idea that they are the best fertilizers. Such materials provide little actual plant food. A ton of manure provides less plant food than a hundred pounds of scientifically prepared grass fertilizer. Furthermore, manures are likely to introduce objectionable weeds. The real benefit from manures and similar substances results from the humus they add to the soil, improving the physical condition. They should be in­ corporated thoroughly in the soil before seeding or mixed with soil to provide topdressing material. Other materials that fall into the class of manures, from the standpoint of being good sources of humus but negligible sources of plant food, include various types of peats and mucks. Actually these call for supplemental applications of plant food since bacteria working to disintegrate humus ma­ terials frequently exhaust the soil supply. LIME helps reduce excessive acidity but it is not a substitute for a complete plant food. When to Feed Feeding should be planned to produce continuing maxi­ mum lawn beauty. It is not necessary for a lawn to be off-color for more than a few weeks out of the year when temperatures are very low. 25 Late Winter-Early Spring feeding is advised to get grass off to a good start in the new growing season. It is the time when grass generates new roots. They can be made sturdier and more extensive by early feeding. Feeding in Late Spring-Early Summer will help grass through the trying hot months. Many use the Scotts Weed & Feed combination in May or early June, get double benefits from a single application in control of broad-leaved weeds and feeding of grass. A half rate application of T urf Builder is suggested for lawns in mid-summer. This can be ap­ plied safely with a Scotts Spreader if the grass is dry at tim e of application. Fall feeding with T urf Builder helps grass recover from the effects of summer heat and drouth. It encourages the lateral spread of the roots by supplying nutrients over the winter when there is im­ portant root activity even though the grass is dormant. seed or apply The Scott Spreader has been to sow especially designed grass lawn food, evenly and accurately. With one of these any home- owner can easily do his own se ed ing and fe e d in g , also weed control. Soil Testing A good laboratory test of soils will establish two things (1) the physical classification of the soil sample, and (2) the pH of the soil, that is, whether it is alkaline, neutral or acid in reaction. The former will provide the clue to soil handling and possible modification, the other as to the need for lime. Scotts Lawn Research Laboratories of Marysville, Ohio provide a soil test service at the nominal charge of a dollar per sample, including report and recommendations. Many Lawns Need Lime The use of lime is important in lawn building and main­ tenance over a large part of the country. The exceptions are the limited areas of the Mid-West where soils are mainly of limestone derivation, and the more arid lands of the West. 26