Lawn Feeding also Helps Tree HERE ARE two elm trees on adjacent properties in heavy clay soils. Growing conditions are similar except the one to the left is on a lawn fed with T U RF BUILDER four times a year. According to growth ring borings, the tree on the left is 18 years old, the other 29 years. These same borings indicate that the trunk growth of the tree in the well-fed lawn has been double that of the other. As the pictures show, the branch growth and general appearance of the much younger tree is superior. Feeding trees used to be laborious and expensive. Now it is recognized as a dividend of a lawn feeding program. Lawns under trees may well receive four or five feedings a year for better grass — better trees. SPECIAL EDITION GM-466 Copyright 1955 by the O M Scott & Sons Co, Marysville, Ohio PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA All rights reserved. This book, or parts thereof, may not be reproduced publishers. in any form without permission of the Planning The New Lawn PRELIMINARY STUDY is just as helpful to good lawn building as it is to home building. A better lawn is possible at less cost if early consideration is given to saving of topsoil, utilizing the natural grade to best advantage and making plans so the actual seeding will be done at the best time of year. Many new lawns turn out disappointingly because they were planted at the wrong season. In most localities the one best time is late summer or early fall when shorter days and cooler evenings are in the offing. Germination and seedling growth are better when the soil is warm but the days not quite so hot and moisture more abundant. The fall planting season may get under way in August, extend through September or later if weather conditions permit working the soil. A good lawn can be produced in the spring but it takes more attention than one sown in autumn. With good soil, proper watering and mowing, lawns may be started in the summer with reasonable success. Generally speaking, after trees are leafed-out, it's better to plant a temporary grass or clover cover, making the permanent seeding in late summer. In the mid or deep South, warm season grasses such as Bermuda or Zoysia are best seeded in late spring or early summer. It is well to budget the cost of a lawn as part of the cost of the home. The main expense will be in grading and soil preparation. If topsoil must be brought in, this may cost from three to five dollars per cubic yard. Unless a substantial fill is needed, it may be better to utilize the soil on the property in preference to a big outlay for imported topsoil. No matter how rich the soil, it is important to apply a good grass food just before seeding. The cost of good seed and fertilizer is not apt to run more than five dollars per 1000 square feet (50 by 20 ft), a small part of the total lawn cost. It is of prime importance that the highest quality seed be used. It costs more per pound but generally less per lawn because fewer pounds are needed. It is unwise to risk the total lawn investment by use of inferior materials. The Lawn Grade The lawn is usually the dominant feature in the landscape picture. It sets off the house and enhances other landscape plantings. Walks, shrubs, flower beds and statuary are better placed at the perimeter of the lawn since clear areas create an illusion of spaciousness. The direction of slope should be given consideration in the lawn plan. In general a northern or eastern exposure is more desirable. The southern and western slopes are subject to more intensive rays from the sun and so suffer more from heat and drought. In grading, it is desirable to maintain natural and gradual contours. Avoid severe grades wherever possible. They are difficult to establish and maintain because of erosion by heavy rains and extreme drying in periods of drought. Abrupt changes in grade cause mowing difficulty. Soil Problems Probably the most important single feature in building the lawn is the soil. Good loamy topsoil is valuable and makes the best lawn or garden or farm. (See Chapter 2). Before the basement is dug or there is any filling or grading of the property, topsoil should be saved by scraping it to one side for later replacement. In case a substantial fill is necessary, this may be made in part with subsoil but the upper 4 to 6 inches should be good topsoil if possible. The fill dirt should be free of large stones. It is better if it is somewhat sandy or gritty as this will provide better underground drainage and will not compact as readily as pure clay. Many poor spots in otherwise good lawns are due to the effect of buried building debris. If the heavy rains drain slowly due to impervious clay or hardpan, installation of tile drainage should receive serious consideration. Growing conditions will be better for the lawn, shrubs, trees and the garden if surplus water is removed. Basement leakage will be less of a problem if the ground is well drained. It is advisable to learn in advance the general classifi- cation of a soil, how it should be handled and whether it needs lime in addition to fertilizer. Plans For Watering There are advantages to automatic irrigation systems with pipes concealed underground. is to be installed, plans should be made in advance so this work can be scheduled in proper sequence. Even if an elaborate system is not included, it is a good idea to give thought to the location of convenient spigots to attach hose, possibly a type of under- ground connection in the middle of the lawn. If such a system Tools For The Job If the owner decides to build the lawn himself, he may find it advisable to hire some of the heavier work done. For example, large grading jobs are quickly handled by bulldozers or tractors equipped with blades. A rototiller or similar cultivator may accomplish in an hour the amount of soil preparation that would otherwise require days of hand labor. Such machines and operators for them may be hired by the hour in many localities. Garden tractors with plows, disc and spike harrow will help in readying lawn soils. This equipment or the tillers will also aid in the incorporation of organic matter. Small hand equipment required includes spades and shovels, a heavy hoe and two types of iron rakes. The usual garden rake is all right for the lighter work but a heavier road-grading style will save time in cultivation and leveling. Soil for the New Lawn SOIL PROVIDES the lodging place for grass. If it is good quality garden loam, the problems of starting and main- taining the lawn will be easier. On the other hand, most lawns and many excellent ones are growing in stiff clay subsoils or light sandy soils almost devoid of organic matter. Their owners have exerted the extra care in management, feeding, watering and mowing that enables them to enjoy lawn success in spite of poor soil. Good soil is precious and one blessed with it should hus- band it with care. One of the commonest mistakes in home building is the practice of covering good topsoil with exca- vation dirt and building debris. Thus in a few hours centuries of nature's accumulation of topsoil may be lost. Origin of Soils Soil is formed by the breakdown of rocks and varies according to the type of native rock, climate, slope, age, organisms and organic additions. The presence of decaying organic matter, known as humus, is the main reason weathered topsoil supports plant growth better than does exposed subsoil. Better soils are generally darker, due in part to the fact that organic matter tends to become dark brown or black as it decomposes. The humus-rich, surface layer of topsoil is seldom more than a few inches in depth except in valleys or alluvial plains where good soil from the uplands has been deposited by wind or water. Poorer soils are generally either sands or gravels, or the light colored plastic clays. The physical condition determines a soil's value — that is, the texture or size of the soil particles, their structure or arrangement and the content of organic matter. The richness or fertility of any soil is not of primary importance. It is easy to add the necessary plant food to soils to make them rich and to add lime to overcome acidity. Even after the lawn is planted, these can be applied at the surface, but it is difficult to overcome poor physical condition. The average person has little choice as to native soil for his lawn but he can protect good topsoil by arranging to have it moved aside before building operations are started. Soil Types Soils are classified as clays, loams and sands depending upon the size and proportion of the individual particles. There are, of course, mixtures of all three and various gradations from one to the other. Unmodified clay is composed of extremely fine particles which tend to form a sticky, compact mass when wet. Heavy clays retain a large amount of water which is released slowly in dry seasons. When they do dry, they tend to bake as hard as brick. In fact pottery, tile and brick are made by puddling and heating certain types of clay. Clay usually dries to a light color. It shrinks in drying, causing cracks and crevices through- which the deeper-lying moisture escapes. The extreme contrast to heavy clay is sand. The individual particles of sand are much larger than those of clay though the casual observer may think the opposite is true. Often clay looks coarser because minute particles stick together forming grains or small lumps. Since sandy soil is loose and frequently low in organic matter, it drains quickly and dries rapidly. Sandy or gravelly soils do not retain sufficient moisture for good grass growth in the summer months. They must be watered almost daily and even then the grass may suffer during periods of extreme heat. The Ideal Soil The better lawn soils are the loams made up of silt and clay with organic matter and sand to provide control or drainage of surplus waters. Those who have clay or sandy loams are indeed fortunate. Their soils are friable soon after heavy rains, yet have sufficient organic matter to carry moisture reserves for dry periods. Such soils are generally fairly dark color even when dry. Since humus imparts this dark color to soils, many have the idea that all dark soils are good. Not so, some of the blackest soils are simply muck such as found in drained swamp lands. These become powdery when dry and do not have the body necessary to support grass growth. Many soils that are light brown or red when dry have the appearance of a dark, rich soil when wet. It is not a good idea to judge a soil by its color when it is wet. Improving Soil Conditions Two procedures may provide better lawn soils. One is to incorporate liberal amounts of soil of opposite texture together with organic matter. The other is to import the equivalent of four to six inches of good loamy topsoil. When this is added, a gradual blending of subsoil into topsoil is advised, by putting down an inch or two of topsoil and mixing it into the soil in place. Heavy Clays. The first rule in dealing with the heavier soils is to avoid working them when wet. In such condition culti- vation or heavy rolling causes serious compaction. Incorpora- tion of sharp, coarse sand helps to make clay more friable. Fine molders sand will not do as it will have the opposite effect. Pulverized slag, charcoal, sifted ashes and similar materials may be used in place of sand. Large volumes of decaying organic matter help make soils more friable. soils soil conditioners and may the That means a minimum change clay, to 50% by bulk of the in heavy e f f e ct any appreciable 25% to incorporate of clay. Chemical inches but the uncertain. To necessary textured material. to three some qualities Sandy Soils. The coarser grained sandy soils are made more suitable by mixing in clay. Only a small portion is required because the fine grained clay has a greater modifying effect than sand. Possibly 15% to 20% by bulk may be enough. it is coarser of one inch of sand help lasting expense is considerable Soils may be damaged by rolling, especially when the soil is wet. Use of a light roller or the rolling of quite dry soil is not harmful but it does not do any good either. Rolling tends to compact most soils. It is better not to use the roller at all except to press heaved sod back into the ground after spring thaws. Even then a heavy roller is to be avoided. Finish Grade and Seeding PRELIMINARIES in lawn building include rough grading, in- stallation of tile drainage and underground utilities. Next in order is grading of the surface to the levels desired for the finished lawn and, finally, seedbed preparation. It is to be hoped that at least four or even six inches of good friable loam topsoil is in place. If parts of the lawn were not disturbed in grading, they should be cultivated. Extensive areas may be plowed or better still, loosened with a disc set to cut three or four inches in depth. That is sufficient if the natural grade is acceptable for the final lawn. Loam or clay soils must not be worked when wet and sticky, because they will tend to clod and dry into hard com- pact masses. Extensive working of most soils is better accom- plished in summer when they are apt to be drier. Smaller areas may be prepared with power rototillers, In any method, care garden tractors or by hand spading. should be taken to avoid turning up subsoil and burying good topsoil. Soil Improvement This is the last chance to incorporate soil improving materials such as organic matter or sand. The physical con- dition of the soil cannot be much improved after seeding so whatever is necessary should be accomplished now. After plowing or spading, the soil is apt to be rough and cloddy. Discs or power cultivators are useful in breaking up such soil as are garden cultivators, heavy hoes and rakes. Except on large open areas, the final soil preparation and leveling is best done by hand. On acreage seedings, this may be accomplished with drags, spike harrows, cultipackers and the like. Before the final working, it is well to incorporate lime if a soil test has shown this to be needed. The raw ground agricultural limestone is usually recommended and generally applications will vary from 50 to 100 pounds per 1000 square feet or one to two tons per acre. Final Leveling In final grading care is needed to see that surface drainage is provided to all parts of the lawn. Depressions where water will stand, high spots that will be scalped in mowing, or sharp changes in grade should be avoided. One way to guard against this possibility in flat lawns of limited area is to use a leveling board in the final stage of seedbed preparation. A 12-foot plank makes a good leveling board if one like that shown in the illustration is not available. When used, strings are stretched with the "fall" of the land, 12 feet apart. The strings are held on stakes and located on the stakes the width of the board above the desired finished grade. Thus when the board is held edgewise between two lengths of string, it is possible to ascertain the high and low spots and adjust them accordingly. Seedbed Preparation. Alternate harrowing or hand raking and rolling serve to break the surface soil. Some clods will be raked out in the operation -ft and these may be used to ; fill in low places after re- moval of stones and rub- bish. JV ^ , If 1 , - & v * . jjL I , . , * - fW , i . . _ * * With heavier soils, the j finished surface need not be as fine as can be de- ^ % veloped in a sandy loam. ^ t > * O If there is a good disper- sion of pea-size particles in a clay or clay-loam seedbed, it is just as well to have a mixture of larger pieces, up to a half inch or inch in diameter — between the size of a marble and a golf ball. A deep dust mulch is not good because of the possibility of the formation of surface crusting because of the puddling action of heavy rains or waterings. It is difficult for seedling grass to emerge through such a crust. A moderately coarse surface will not appear as attractive but will have crevices into which seeds can lodge and find moisture for germination. Seedlings will be sheltered from washing rains and drying action of the sun. Apply Grass Food It is essential that a generous supply of soil nutrients be available to the sprouting grass. Since it is more readily avail- able if fairly near the surface, the application of grass food is recommended in connection with the final raking. Grass food can be broadcast by hand, but a more even distribution is obtained with a good spreader. If footprints or wheeltracks are much in evidence, they should be raked out before seeding. Grub Proofing. In the Atlantic seaboard states, grubs of Jap Beetles ruin many lawns each year. They are extending their operations westward all the time and along with white grubs of May beetles and June bugs are now serious pests around Pittsburgh, Cleveland, Detroit, Cincinnati and St. Louis. Where there is likelihood of grub infestation, it is a good idea to treat the soil before seeding with a pest control that will destroy grubs hatching from eggs in the soil. Selecting Seed the Too often lawn seed is purchased because of low cost per pound. Often such seed is the most expensive per lawn because coarse, large seeds fill up the package. They may not have the ability to produce a lawn but in any event they have to be planted heavily. It may well be necessary to use three pounds of ordinary seed to get as many grass plants as can be obtained from one pound of the best lawn seed. Selection of a "Shady Lawn" mixture or a "Terrace" mixture is not the answer to either problem. The problems are solved by the right maintenance program as stipulated in later chapters. The important consideration in seed selection is to con- sider plans for maintenance. Will lawn be regularly watered in dry seasons, cut short, fed frequently and ScuTL-ed for disease. Then get seed for the deluxe lawn. If, in contrast, the growing conditions will be very poor, the use of coarser, hardier grasses may be the answer. A good plan is to select the seed firm in which one has confidence, then choose from the brands of that seedsman according to needs. the When to Seed With few exceptions, the best seeding time is right after the months of hottest weather, when the days grow noticeably shorter and better conditions of moisture are expected. Usually heavier dews are typical of the fall season, and in many localities rainfall is favorable. Evaporation is less rapid than in mid-summer and irrigation less of a problem. Preparing the soil in summer or in dry periods may develop a powdery condition in the upper inch or so of sur- face soil. If that happens, it is better to wait for rain to settle this dust mulch or water thoroughly before seeding. Otherwise the first heavy rain may bury the seed so deeply that it cannot germinate or may wash the seed out of place. It is all right to go ahead with seeding as long as the soil is workable even into November or December. The seed may not germinate until the following spring, but it will not be harmed appreciably, whether sub-zero temperatures are com- mon or not. Spring seedings should be completed as early as weather permits to get root growth before hot weather. Heat is just as much an enemy of seedling grass as drought. The actual date of spring seeding depends upon when the ground gets dry enough to work. This may be February or possibly not until May. Summer seedings can be successful only if adequate irrigation is possible. Normal rainfall may sprout the seed but it would be unusual for nature to provide steady rains to support the seedling grass to maturity. How to Seed Whether seeding by hand or spreader, it is well to divide the seed, sowing part in one direc- tion, the balance cross- wise to the first. This assures more even cover- age and lessens the pos- sibility of missed spots or windrows. C o v e r i ng Seed. There is no one best pro- cedure for covering seed. The question whether raking or brushing is bet- ter than allowing nature to bury the seed by action the of rain and alternate wetting and drying is debatable. Seed is sometimes covered by a light hand raking or by dragging a flexible steel door mat over the area. Rolling follows to firm it into the soil. A good practice is to rake after the first part of the seed is sown, rolling only after the second. A light roller is advised, just heavy enough to firm the soil, not pack it. Small lawns may be topdressed with an eighth-inch or so of screened soil or compost. The use of raw peat moss is a questionable practice since there is danger of the roots growing up into the peat instead of down into the soil. Protecting Planting the Nothing can or need be done to protect grass seeds or seedling grass except to preserve moisture and prevent washing during heavy rains. Many like to "mulch" after a late spring seeding. Clean straw may be used to conserve moisture (they reduce evaporation) and to prevent serious washing. Not more than an inch or two should be used and this ought to be raked off as soon as the grass is well started. Interlaced cord, held down by pegs, is often used to hold the straw in place. Coarse cheese cloth or even light weight open burlaps may be used to hold seed in place and conserve moisture. They should be removed as the grass gets a good start. Open mesh material such as used for handling oranges and onions makes a good covering to reduce erosion. This material (Erosionet) can be purchased by the yard. Anchoring any such material is a problem. Small wooden pegs or even golf tees are safer than wire or spikes, considering the lawn mower. Early Care While prolonged drouth does not harm seed, its germina- tion can be hastened by regular watering to take advantage of otherwise good growing weather. Once the seed has started to sprout, the supply of m'oisture must be constant or the plants may perish. Two or three waterings with a fine spray may be required on bright days until the grass gets a good start. It is not necessary to flood the ground but the surface needs to be moist at all times. As the grass matures, watering can be less frequent but heavier. Young turf is not benefited, may even be harmed by any covering designed to protect it from cold. New grass should be cut when any of it gets close to two inches tall and with a very sharp mower set at 1 to l/2 inches. Dull blades pull out plants and break many of the tender hair-like roots. Traffic should be kept off new grass, at least until after several mowings. Proper Mowing THE PRINCIPAL PURPOSE of mowing a lawn is to improve its appearance. Unless properly done, however, this improvement will be temporary, for one thing is certain — how a lawn is mowed has much to do with its health. The important factors in mowing are: 1) Start is any growth 2) Decide clipping to be upon maximum as soon as there cut. and minimum appreciable heights of cut for hot and cool 3) Try more mowing to mow the than a fourth is desirable. seasons. lawn before it has grown of the cutting height. much Frequent Looking to the health and appearance of the lawn, the one most important point is to mow so that only moderate growth is cut back each time. Through the centuries nature has endowed grass with the ability to tolerate frequent defolia- tion but the roots will suffer if too much of the energy produc- ing green growth is suddenly removed. Grass looks bad if tall growth is cut back because the lower leaves will be brown and scraggly due to the shading effect of tall grass. The Right Height The reader is referred to the discussion in Chapter 1 regarding his choice of lawn goal. The three categories of lawns are not rigid castes but it is well to determine what is desired and establish mowing plans accordingly. Mowing heights may be determined on this basis: Hot Season 1 % 2 2Vz Deluxe — - short cut Good — medium cut Utility — high cut In dense shade grass has to live on reduced ration of sunlight. Such lawns are better maintained at the medium Coot Season inch 7 V/2 " 2 to 3 " inches of or high cut levels except when tree leaves are dropping in the fall. Disposition If the clippings are evenly scattered and not heavy, it makes little difference in grass health whether they are removed or not. Clippings will be detrimental if matted so as to smother the grass. They may give the lawn a dull, brownish cast. This is largely a matter of appearance. Clippings Clippings are of negligible value in returning plant food to the soil. They have slight value as mulch in reducing evaporation. This is a questionable blessing since a layer of decaying vegetation at the soil surface contributes to the activity of harmful fungi and molds that may cause grass diseases in wet conditions. Clippings may also harbor harmful insects. Some utilize grass cuttings to advantage as mulch about shrubbery, in gardens or as humus-forming additions to the compost bed. Actually the disposition of clippings can be a matter of an individual's choice as to whether he uses the catcher on his mower, rakes or sweeps the clippings, or simply lets them work down into the turf. If the unsightliness of the clippings can be tolerated for a day after cutting, there will be less bulk to rake up and carry off. Lawn Sweepers are excellent for gathering clippings and help give the lawn a better groomed appearance. Type of Mowers It is a matter of individual determination whether the lawn is cut by hand or with power, with the traditional reel type mower or the newer rotary types. The important con- siderations are: one that has the range of Many to in mowing. but relatively or high 1) Select a good machine, needed. and cutting heights it sharp 2) Keep in good adjustment. lawns have a brownish tearing or bruising of the grass blades cast after mowing due 3) Rotary mowers have certain shortcomings from undulations, lawns can be maintained if surface depressions outstanding free spots. Other considerations regarding mowing equipment in- clude weight, ease of manipulation, ability to trim close to trees and shrub beds, danger to users and others. Watering Lawns The amount and type of natural rainfall are the main factors affecting the timing of the watering program. A slow, soaking rain of a half inch will do more good than a driving downpour of several times that amount. When rains have been missing for a week or two, it is time to examine the soil to see if it is getting too dry. This condition may develop much earlier in the spring than usually anticipated. Bright sun and brisk wind evaporate moisture quickly and may set up a need for watering much earlier in the spring than usually considered. It is not advisable to wait for the grass to show signs of withering. Once the soil gets dry to a depth of two or three inches, it is difficult to restore opti- mum moisture, especially if it is a heavy clay that bakes hard and cracks open. A lawn watering program cannot be scheduled by the calendar. The need for water is best determined by occasional examination of the soil. A good plan is to cut a small plug 2 or 3 inches deep with a knife or trowel. If the upper inch or so reveals any sign of dryness, it is time to water. It is easy to replace moisture to that depth but if the soil is dry much deeper, the task is more than proportionately greater. to determine need the soil to examine The sure way for water is Some have learned to tell by the "feel" of the lawn under- foot when it needs water. As a soil dries, it loses resiliency of damp soil and there is a marked contrast to walking over a part of the lawn that stays moist because of shade from the house as against a part exposed to full sun. This will be noted especially in one's heel prints. Quantity of Water As the soil dries out it should be necessary to replace only as much moisture as lost in the interval by evaporation and transpiration from grass leaves. From an average loam soil this loss on warm summer days may be 50 gallons per 1000 square feet. A six day total of 300 gallons would be the equiva- lent of a half inch rain. The length of time needed to replace the loss depends upon the sprinkler and water pressure. A good type at 20 pounds' pressure would need to run 2 or 3 hours. In the case of a sandy soil, the moisture loss should be replaced long before it amounts to as much as a half inch of rain. While such soils absorb water quickly they hold less mois- ture and lose it more readily. They need to be watered more frequently, in smaller quantities. is easy during to check any given spray and measuring It sprinkler the cans should Watering Not a Panacea be deep enough from a under The the effectiveness time by placing the depth of delivery c o f f ee cans collected. that water does not splash of water out. • Pouring water on a lawn in the summer will not make up for lack of plant food or other deficiencies in the maintenance program. Neither will it restore turf which has gone off-color because of fungus diseases, beetle grubs, chinch bugs, or injury from a dull or poorly adjusted lawn mower. MANY PEOPLE inquire if chlorine and other chemicals used in purifying city water are harmful to grass. If water is suitable for human consumption or even for laundry pur- poses, it is not likely to hurt plants. It is doubtful if enough such water would ever be put on a turf to cause any appre- ciable concentration of chemicals. The lime in some water may tend to alkalinize soils but not harmfully except under extreme conditions. CRABGRASS, is called watergrass by many because they as- sociate it with watering and think "sprinkling" brings it on. Actually Crabgrass will grow in drier soils than will desirable grasses but like most plants it enjoys abundant moisture and thrives on it. • Pro per Lawn Feeding enough one lawns in' five receives of outstanding in plant this if all were food of grass Hardly lawn food. The number country would to receive the two or three increase right times a tremendously formulation year. EACH OF THE MILLIONS of grass plants that make up a lawn is a living organism. It must obtain minerals and water from the soil and carbon dioxide from the air. The quan- tity and combination in which these are available determine the vitality, the color and density of turf. Unlike birds or animals, a grass plant cannot go wander- ing about in search of food. It must take what nourishment it can find in the limited zone of soil where it makes its home. Good feeding promotes deeper, more penetrating roots that enable grass to draw on a larger volume of soil moisture, helping it through periods of drouth. Moss is an often-present warning that soil is becoming deficient in plant food. Lime may be needed but usually feed- ing is the answer. The Right Food The first step in choosing a fertilizer for lawns is to get one that is compounded especially to feed grass. A general flower and garden fertilizer is seldom right because it is prepared to encourage the production of blossoms or fruit. In contrast, the need in lawn feeding is to encourage green leaf growth and deep, sturdy roots. Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium are the main ele- ments which grass needs and which are deficient in most soils. Of these, the first is of primary importance because it is respon- sible for the green vegetative growth that is, after all, the lawn. A scientifically prepared. grass food blends the three major elements in the right proportions. Manures and Peats. The use of manures is not as pre- valent as formerly due to their scarcity but many folks still have the erroneous idea that they are the best fertilizers. Such materials provide little actual plant food. A ton of manure provides less plant food than a hundred pounds of scientifically prepared grass fertilizer. Furthermore, manures are likely to introduce objectionable weeds. The real benefit from manures and similar substances results from the humus they add to the soil, improving the physical condition. They should be in- corporated thoroughly in the soil before seeding or mixed with soil to provide topdressing material. Other materials that fall into the class of manures, from the standpoint of being good sources of humus but negligible sources of plant food, include various types of peats and mucks. Actually these call for supplemental applications of plant food since bacteria working to disintegrate humus ma- terials frequently exhaust the soil supply. LIME helps reduce substitute for a complete excessive plant food. acidity but it is not a When to Feed Feeding should be planned to produce continuing maxi- mum lawn beauty. It is not necessary for a lawn to be off-color for more than a few weeks out of the year when temperatures are very low. Late Winter-Early Spring feeding is advised to get grass off to a good start in the new growing season. It is the time when grass generates new roots. They can be made sturdier and more extensive by early feeding. Feeding in Late Spring-Early Summer will help grass through the trying hot months. Many use the Scotts WEED & FEED combination in May or early June, get double benefits from a single application in control of broad-leaved weeds and feeding of grass. is suggested for A half rate application of T U RF BUILDER lawns in mid-summer. This can be ap- plied safely with a Scotts Spreader if the grass is dry at time of application. Fall feeding with T U RF BUILDER helps grass recover from the effects of summer heat and drouth. It encourages the lateral spread of the roots by supplying nutrients over the winter when there is im- portant root activity even though the grass is dormant. Sow grass seed or apply lawn food, evenly and accurately. W i th a good spreader any homeowner can easily do his own seeding and feeding, also weed control. Soil Testing A good laboratory test of soils will establish two things (1) the physical classification of the soil sample, and (2) the pH of the soil, that is, whether it is alkaline, neutral or acid in reaction. The former will provide the clue to soil handling and possible modification, the other as to the need for lime. Scotts Lawn Research Laboratories of Marysville, Ohio provide a soil test service at the nominal charge of a dollar per sample, including report and recommendations. Many Lawns Need Lime The use of lime is important in lawn building and main- tenance over a large part of the country. The exceptions are the limited areas of the Mid-West where soils are mainly of limestone derivation, and the more arid lands of the West. Control of Weeds — Non-Grass Types PROBABLY the simplest definition of a weed is: "Any plant growing out of place." Thus a garden plant springing up in the lawn is a weed, as is the finest grass in a flower bed. Dr. E. R. Spencer, author of an excellent book on weeds, says: "Of all the forms of nature . . . nothing is so sure to come into one's life as weeds." Some folks feel that in this respect their lives have been full indeed. In lawns, certain grass plants are just as obnoxious as dan- delions, buckhorn, plantain or daisies. Thus the subject of lawn weeds necessarily includes grass-type weeds as well as the broad-leaved plants which are more commonly considered weeds. Now it is possible to clear a lawn of most unwanted growth — grass weeds as well as others — by easy applications of chemicals. Moreover, this can be accomplished without permanent injury to the desirable lawn grasses. Modern science is responsible for the development of selective weed controls. One type of chemical effective against most dicotyledons (p l a n ts emerging has little effect on monocotyledons (one l e a f, e. g. grains) and has been available for several years. Clovers and most garden plants are "dicots." Grasses, desirable and otherwise, are "monocots." The dicots are successfully eliminated from lawns because a dosage of dichlorophenoxyacetic acid 2,4-D that proves their undoing is relatively harmless to grasses. two leaves) with The selective action of a very minute amount of 2,4-D is its most startling feature. Large, healthy dandelions and other susceptible weeds disappear in a few weeks while sur- rounding grass remains unharmed. In its early development this nemesis to lawn weeds could be applied only as a spray. Admittedly this was a great advance over hand-digging both in effectiveness and in labor saving. However, the extra work of carrying water, pumping Volunteer growth of weeds, clover and grasses. No seed was planted. This mess sprouted from dormant seeds in the soil in the matter of a few weeks in the spring. up pressures and the need for specialized equipment stimulated Scotts Lawn Research into developing selective control for broadleaved weeds in two easily used dry compounds. granular 1 ) 4-XD — a clean, 2) WEED & FEED — combining control with a special stimulate grass. weed ously the free-flowing weedicide the fertilizer same e f f e c t i ve simultane- to Either product is quickly applied with the same conven- ient two-wheeled spreader used for seed sowing and fertilizer applications. Effects Are Good Practically any lawn can be cleared of dicotyledons with no injury and little or no discoloration to the grass. A good a time to do this is during p e r i o ds of a c t i ve weed growth, except in very hot and humid weather. The dicots vary in their resistance to chemical weed controls. Clover is one of the more resistant species. Generally it is not destroyed but growth is retarded, par- t i c u l a r ly its t e n d e n cy to bloom. This is considered an advantage because profuse blossoming the serious objections to clover in lawns. is one of . 111 • III • 'V^'ili | tions are reduced substantially if applica- tion is made in late winter, about the Some plants are more resistant to the action of the 2,4-D chemical. The list includes the low growing, vining type of weeds such as chickweed, speedwell, trefoil and ground ivy. Usually they require repeat applications in warm weather at 3 to 4 week intervals. tWild garlic or wild onion infesta- M ay Be Slow Susceptible plants begin to show the effect of 2,4-D :, I^SW'^I^V^:\y^/iVi" in two or three weeks. Mliyt/Zi^V^JLi'df^lV/^AI^W/^^//ZJ Authorities recognize the value of within a matter of days — if growth is active. On the other ^ w W ^ w n f ^ W m ^^ feeding grass at the same time weed hand if the weather is cool or the soil dry, little effect may be • control is used. This strengthens the turf, '•l n - ' noted until good growing conditions prevail. At times weeks ' « - 1" it to fill out and take over may elapse before the weed destruction is evident. The action " where the weeds had been. Lawn food " of an application may be delayed but is not apt to be lost. can be put on separately although the more convenient plan is to use Scotts WEED & FEED which does a simultaneous job of feeding the grass as it clears out broad-leaved weeds. - • • - „ .^V enabling °' >•>•••' time growth emerges, with a follow-up Control of Weeds — Crab grass OF ALL OBSTACLES to good lawns, Crabgrass is probably Enemy No 1. Crabgrass is strictly annual, volunteering from seed as the soil warms in late spring or in the summer. Unless checked, its claw-like spreading tentacles will crowd out desirable grasses and take possession by mid-summer. Crab- grass then shoots off ugly wiry seed heads that are extremely difficult to mow. The first heavy frost finishes the plants but before that time, millions of seeds will have been dropped to germinate another year. The chemicals controlling non-grass weeds such as dan- delions will not selectively control grass weeds. Some years ago, however, scientists at the University of Rhode Island noted that some forms of mercury had the ability to select between grasses. They established the fact that certain dosages, properly administered, would prove the undoing of Crabgrass without permanent injury to desirable grasses. Scotts Lawn Research developed a practical commercial product, given the name of SCUTL. On the market since 1950, it has been proven as the easy-to-use answer to the Crab- grass problem. It is a dry, granular compound, quickly applied with the same spreader used to sow seed or to distribute fer- tilizer. SCUTL can do a thorough job if properly used. In a sense it is a lawn medicine and like most medications, one dose is not enough. Knowledge Is Power \ Vji \M Ik* To conquer Crabgrass, it is necessary to understand its habits of growth and to be able to recognize it in its early stage of development. A few innocent looking sprouts of light green, stubby grass may fore- tell trouble in a lawn. The sketch represents Crabgrass in the two-leaf stage, the beginning of one of the slickest subversive operations in the plant world. From one of these sprouts a plant spreading out as much as two feet may develop almost unnoticed within a period of ninety days. finger grass. Crabgrass has different names in various localities. There are many varieties, mainly of the genus Digitaria or Synther- isma. Other English names in common use are wiregrass, water-grass, Control. The procedure for control of Crabgrass will de- pend upon the season or progress stage of the pest when the campaign against it is begun. As with most things, the earlier start is better but if Crabgrass is growing in a lawn, the time is "Now." SCUTL is one weapon and its strategic use in three different situations is outlined below. 1. Late Spring The control action of SCUTL affects either the plant or the germinating seed. It is possible to forestall later trouble by having SCUTL on the ground so the sprouts of Crabgrass pick up a lethal potion as the first leaf emerges. The timing will depend upon when the soil is subjected to a couple of weeks of real warming sunshine. This is usually about time dandelions are blossoming, late tulips are in full glory. A total of five or six easy spreader applications is made at intervals of two to three weeks. Some varieties of Crabgrass may germinate after this program necessitating a clean-up treatment in mid or late summer. 2. Mid-Summer If the late spring program has not been car- ried out, Crabgrass will be growing actively by the time ram- bler roses have bloomed and summer seems definitely at hand. Some are fooled by Crabgrass in its early stages because the bright yellow-green sprouts are not ugly, though the leaves are broader than desirable grasses. By mid or late June the spreading and branching phase of Crabgrass is usually under way. Since growth is tougher and more rapid in hotter weather, the interval between appli- cations in this program is 5 to 7 days. After the second application in this series, a distinct If yellowing followed by browning of Crabgrass plants will be noted. If this does not occur, then some variety other than Crabgrass is the lawn cul- prit. The list of summer annual grasses which are not controlled by chem- icals includes: Foxtail, Goose Grass, Witch Grass and Dallis Grass (Pas- palum). in doubt whether your problem is Crabgrass, send a specimen for identification to Scotts at Marysville, Ohio; Cranbury, New Jersey; or Palo Alto, Cali- fornia. Wrap in foil or wax paper to prevent drying but do not moisten plants. 3. Late Summer The real orneriness of Crabgrass may not be recognized until late summer when it sends out reddish or purplish seeding spikes that are wiry and extremely tough to mow. By then Crabgrass will have smothered much desirable grass but even so, control efforts are very much worthwhile. Future trouble may be lessened by preventing further spread and seed development, but quick action w i ll be if Crabgrass has needed grown unchecked into August. * The late season treat- ment is S C U TL at 5 day intervals applied to damp vegetation. Other Grass-Type Lawn Weeds WHILE SELECTIVE chemical controls for Crabgrass have been discovered, no such success can be reported for various weed grasses, most of which are annuals. Many re- semble Crabgrass so closely in appearance and habit of growth that cases of mistaken identity are common. Hot Weather Troubles MID-SUMMER may be a trying period for lawn owners es- pecially in extremely wet or extremely dry seasons. In- sect pests are most apt to be bothersome in the months of June, July or August. Where summer turf injury is observed, it is advisable to reflect on the weather of the preceding weeks, check soil moisture and look for insects. The effect of not enough rain is usually obvious and the answer too, as discussed in Chapter 6. Too Much Moisture Too much moisture in a poorly drained lawn may first be indicated by a yellowing of the grass. A soggy soil prevents air from reaching the roots and they suffocate for lack of oxygen. Saturated soil is also destructive to soil bacteria that make minerals available to the grass. When soil is saturated the deeper roots are drowned and the grass is left with only a shallow root system. Then a brief interruption in the supply of moisture places the lawn in a most vulnerable position, because the surface soil dries quickly and no deep roots are alive to get the lower-lying moisture. This produces the paradox of grass in an over-watered soil dying because of a lack of moisture. As soon as a shallow rooted situation is discovered, it is advisable to nurse the lawn back to health by daily watering with a fine spray. As the excess water drains from the subsoil, the grass roots will begin growing downward again. Then sprinkling should be less frequent and more thorough until a normal moisture condition is restored. Turf Diseases Though few realize it, various fungus diseases take quite a toll of grass. Often the injury is only scattered and the results simply a thinning of grass that may go unnoticed. At other times conspicuous brown patches develop though not all browning of grass is caused by disease. Certain forms of mercury provide the best protection against grass diseases. It happens that one of these mercurials is an important component of SCUTL, the Scott product for control of Crabgrass. More and more SCUTL is coming into use as a general "Lawn Treatment." This calls for regular ap- plications beginning in late spring to provide the beneficial fungicidal effect of curbing grass diseases. At the same time SCUTL stops many annual weeds before they can emerge from the soil. Grass plants are like animals in that they are better able to withstand disease attacks if they receive the benefit of good care. Leaf Spot. The activity of the Helminthosporium fungus causes the grass disease known as Leaf Spot. It is one of the first injuries to be reported following a wet spring season. When Leaf Spot attacks, the grass does not immediately dis- appear though it does develop lesions, brownish centers merg- ing into black edges. This trouble can be forestalled by utilizing the fungicidal activity of SCUTL. Brown Patch. The disease Brown Patch causes some grass to turn brown during the summer months. The responsible fungus, Rhizoctonia is present in soils and on vegetation everywhere. It is usually inactive except during periods of hot, humid weather when grass is in a weakened condition. solani, The first evidence of Brown Patch is a whitish smoke ring blight followed by wilting and blackening of the affected grass as the disease continues. The attacked grass turns brown in ever widening patches roughly circular in outline. Unless the disease lasting, only the top growth is injured. is very severe and long Lack of good air circulation makes grass more susceptible to Brown Patch so it often hits lawns surrounded by a dense growth of trees or shrubs or in other locations of poor air drainage. In many cases Brown Patch can be prevented by remedy- ing the factors responsible. If this is done and the disease is still troublesome, regular applications of SCUTL are sug- gested at two-week intervals. Growing Grass In The Shade food and water. This need BRIGHT GREEN VIGOROUS grass in the shade zone is possible in most places and without too much effort. The answer is simply in furnishing adequate amounts of the basic needs of all growing things: is more critical for grass under trees because the tree roots have first call on the available soil nutrients and moisture. Dense tree foilage filters out sunshine, but this is the least important factor. Lack of direct sunlight does not pre- clude the possibility of good turf. Protection from the direct rays of midsummer sun may even be a blessing. Seeding. It may be necessary to sow seed under tree-shaded lawns more often than in the sun because of greater mortality of grass plants. Selection of seed is important although va- rieties that make the most attractive turf in the sun have the same advantages in the shade if properly cared for especially in the matter of moisture supply. Feed, feed, and feed again, because the trees take so much nourishment from the soil. Feed at least spring, summer and fall and under severe competitions a half dose as often as once a month through the growing season. This is not much of a chore using a SCOTTS SPREADER. Besides helping the grass, regular feeding of the lawn under trees will supply nutrients for faster growth of the trees. Watch soil moisture under trees. Because protection from the sun reduces evaporation, the upper inch or so of soil may re- main relatively moist while the deeper soil is dried severely by the feeding roots of trees. A good size tree may take up a hun- dred gallons of water or more in a day. Aside from that, the lawn under the trees does not get as much benefit from sum- mer showers. Nature has endowed most trees with a leaf ar- rangement that sheds rain to the outer edge of the spread of branches. It is difficult to prescribe an exact irrigation schedule for all shaded lawns because of variations in soil, exposure and rainfall. Personal observation is the answer. If possible, the water should be delivered so it is immediately absorbed and does not form in puddles over the lawn. There are some locations where grass does not thrive because of excess moisture especially in the early spring and late fall. Such a situation calls for regrading or installation of tile lines. Cut high. Of almost equal importance to seed-food-water, is the matter of mowing. A short cut is all right in cool spring weather, higher cutting to 2 inches or more is better practice during hot weather. Still higher cutting, up to three inches, may be advisable in places protected from the sun in the early part of the day and then suddenly subjected to direct rays during the hot mid-day hours. In such cases the broiling sun wilts the grass because the breathing pores cannot close quickly enough to avoid excessive transpiration. The leaves give off moisture faster than it can be taken up by the roots. Do not neglect cutting just because a higher growth is maintained. The mowing schedule should be such that the grass is cut as soon as a half inch of growth develops. Sometimes thick growths of shrubs interfere with air circulation across lawns. If possible, thinning or pruning is advisable to give the lawn area cross ventilation, preferably in the direction of the prevailing wind for the area. Feeding Trees Frequent feeding of grass under trees has a dual benefit. It helps the growth of trees as well as the lawn. Observation has shown that enough plant food percolates into the tree root zone to double the rate of branch growth when T U RF BUILDER was used on the lawn four times a year. Lawn Renovation AT TIMES IT IS DIFFICULT to decide what to do about a . poor lawn, whether to tear up and rebuild or try to make it into a good lawn by surface treatments. If a lawn is poor because of inadequate maintenance, surprising improvement can be made in just one season of intelligent care. Proper mowing, liming, feeding and weed control supplemented with seeding has worked wonders on many mediocre lawns. It is certainly true that having good soil makes it easier to develop and main- tain a good lawn. On the other hand, most lawns are growing in poor soil condi- tions and the cost of good loam, if it can be found, is usually prohibitive. The general advice then is to work with the soil in place, if it is actually soil and not stones, gravel or loose sand. Investigation mended before After accordingly. Check the Soil — Take soil samples as suggested elsewhere in this book in order to learn — An appraisal of the present condition of a lawn is recom- time or money. that it is well to determine a plan of action and proceed of any particular investment 1. The soil classification — to know what you are dealing with. 2. The pH, which will indicate if your soil needs lime and if so at what rate. into the poorer spots or bare areas where you may Probe find — Buried building debris. Pockets of stone, gravel or loose sand — this should be removed to a depth of 6 or 8 inches and replaced with good soil. Drowning of roots because of poor surface grade or impervious soil. Correct the grade by leveling with good soil. Some turf areas are poor because of compact hide- bound soils caused by trampling. Such areas should be loosened by spading and cultivating or opened up with deep perforations made with spading fork or aerator as described below. Improving Soils of Established Lawns It is difficult to improve the physical soil condition under established turf. There is considerable benefit from regular feeding as it encourages greater root growth and in the cycle some organic matter is added. Sowing Clover into the lawn may help in the same way. Limited areas of heavy compact soil may be helped by perforating the ground to a depth of four or five inches and then brushing coarse sharp sand into the holes. Special aerifying tools are available or an ordinary spading fork may be employed. After being driven into the ground, the spading fork should be worked back and forth to enlarge the holes. Spiked rollers and spike discs are sometimes suggested for this job but ordinarily they do not cut deeply enough to do any real good in soil improvement. The application of topdressing soil to establish lawns is not justified except to level uneven surfaces or to provide a better bed for seeding bare spots. Soil fertility and grass growth are improved by regular applications of T U RF BUILDER. Procedures Use of the Scotts Spreader is the key to most lawn activity. It is easy to set it to apply lime, T U RF BUILDER, weed and pest controls as well as to sow seed. Surface Roughing — Grass seed cannot germinate and take root if it remains on top of the ground. Actually it does not need much covering so it is not necessary to cultivate deeply before seeding. It is advisable to scarify, roughen, perforate or otherwise loosen the surface to give the seed a chance. The Plan of Action — suggested lished upon lawns depending Late winter — early spring for renovation time of the year — of estab- Apply lime if prescribed after Soil Test Feed with T U RF BUILDER Rake out debris, scratch bare spots If there is much of a growth of grass cut it off closely before seeding. Sow grass seed Mow at 1 or I/2 inches as growth starts Spring to early summer Apply 4-XD to control dandelions, similar weeds. Start watering as soon as surface soil begins to dry out. Start SCUTL program to control annual weeds such as Crabgrass. Provide a follow-up feeding. Summertime Continue or start SCUTL program to control Crabgrass. Raise height of mowing to I/2 to 2 inches. Continue watering If surface is uneven, plan to level with good soil or regrade in early August so seeding can be done in late August or early September, the best time of the year. Late summer — early autumn Apply WEED & FEED to clean out dandelions, plantain, buckhorn while feeding the grass. After next soaking rain, do necessary seeding. Mid and late autumn Lower cutting height to 1 or inches. Keep up mowing as long as grass con- tinues to grow. l/2 leaves so they do not mat and Remove smother grass. One of the best tools for this job is a heavy iron rake with the tines sharpened to cut ridges into the soil. Or a sharp flat spade or half-moon turf edger or ice hoe can be used to cut gashes. If seed lodges in such openings, it is more likely to find the needed moisture supply and ready anchorage for the grass roots. Even if this slicing of the surface cuts some grass roots, little harm is done as the injury will soon heal. Top dressing with a good soil or compost is beneficial to any lawn, especially in the building up of a poor lawn. This is advised particularly after seeding if the material is applied to a depth of not more than J4 inch. Deeper covering may delay or prevent germination. Few of the raw organic or humus forming materials are suitable for use as a top dressing on established lawns. By their nature they are bulky and spongy so they do not readily become a part of the surface soil. In- stead of spreading raw organic materials over a lawn, it is better to utilize them in making com- post with soil. The development of com- post for top dressing purposes is more fully discussed in another chapter. One cubic yard of material will provide about a quarter inch on 1000 square feet. The top dressing material should be screened through a !4 inch mesh screen. Some are expert at broadcasting from a shovel, others scatter from a bucket or dump in small piles and spread around with the back of a rake. It is well to rake or brush-in no matter how the top dressing is distributed. This is better accomplished if the grass is cut short before the operation is started. A flexible steel door mat is good for dragging top dressing into the sod. Watering — Nature may provide needed moisture following early spring or early fall seedings. In dry periods, supple- mental watering is needed if young grass is to be kept alive. Seed is not harmed if it remains dormant in dry soil but once the germinating activity is under way, a good moisture level is needed until the grass is well rooted. To all GM Men and Women: This book is a special condensation of material from a bulletin service, L A WN CARE, published monthly during spring, summer and fall since 1928 to help folks develop better lawns. If you have enjoyed this reprint and would like to have the current issues of L A WN CARE mailed direct to your home on a complimentary basis for two years, please use coupon below. Editor Scotts Lawn Research 12 Edgewood Terrace Marysville, Ohio Sirs: Please arrange to send me the L A WN CARE bulletin service. Name Address City Zone State Clip this coupon, paste on 2c postal card.