E. R. HASSELKUS Dept. of Horticulture Turf Info Centef MSU libraries piJTTI NC The cover illustration is number nine green of the new Country Club of Cleveland course. Here eighteen greens of Scott's Washing- ton strain of Creeping Bent give superb putting. Toomey €c Flynn, Architects B. G.Sheldin, Greenkeeper THE PUTTING GREEN Its Planting and Care 1931 O. M. SCOTT & SONS COMPANY MARYSVILLE, O H IO In publishing this bulletin we acknowledge with appreciation the help obtained the Green Section of the United States Golf Asso- ciation, and from a host of progressive green- keepers. from We are also indebted to the various state experiment stations, particularly those of Ohio, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, Rhode Island, Pennsylvania, Michigan, Illi- nois, and the Soils Department of Ohio State U niversity. Indiana, H « CONTENTS GRASSES FOR GREENS Bent Grasses Described—Other Suitable Grasses. C O N S T R U C T I ON OF GREENS Design—Grading—Drainage. T HE P U T T I NG GREEN SOIL Type of Soil Needed—Improving Soils—Preparing for Seeding. P L A N T I NG GREENS , « Page 5-8 9-10 11-12 13-16 When—Fall is Best—With Seed—With Stolons—Caring for New Greens. M A I N T E N A N CE OF GREENS 17-29 Mowing—Rolling—Topdressing—Making Compost—Fertilizing—Water- ing—Poling—Weed Control—Miscellaneous Problems. T U RF DISEASES A ND CONTROL Brown Patch—Scald—Snow Mold—Winter-Kill. INSECT A ND ANIMAL PESTS Earthworms—Grubs—Ants—Moles—Crawfish—Skunks. 31-35 36-37 A r o f e s r u o c f l o g s u o l e v r a m a o t n i . n o i t a z i n a g r O r e l l i M . P l l e d n e W . f r u t d o o g e r u s n i d e e S s ' t t o c S f o s n o t e v i f d n a m e t s y s n o i t a g i r r i y a w r i a f e t e l p m o c e h t y b t l i u b ; t c e t i h c r a , e i z n e k c a M r e t s i l A . r D y b t u o d i a L . p r o C y t l a e R d r o C - r e y e M e h t d e m r o f s n a r t g n i e b n e d r a g k c u r t a — Y . . N , d n a l s I g n o L , e d i s y a B , B U L C Y R T N U O C E D I S Y A B O. 777. ^ c o ff <5> Sons Co. GRASSES FOR GREENS course. THE Putting Qreen has the greatest drawing power of the golf It is the promised land. D ub and professional alike regard it with the u t m o st respect. Even the beginner w ho battles his way desperately over unexplored parts of the course winds up at the green with a feeling of real achievement. A nd w h at a thrill he receives w h en his ball rolls on the carpet-like turf, toward t he cup, and then—drops. Golfers do m u ch talking about smooth, well-grassed fairways, they are likely to appreciate picturesque scenery and layouts that are sporty a nd testing to their skill, b ut they actually rave about greens. A course is k n o wn by the greens it £eeps. O ur purpose in publishing this bulletin is to impress n ew clubs with the importance of building their greens well; also to assist t he old established club in keeping its putting surfaces in the very p i nk of condition. Much is demanded of putting green turf. It must withstand extreme wear, and, at the same time, be composed of grasses which are fine textured and which will give a smooth, even roll to the ball. As such varieties of grass are not com- mon, their selection is one of the most important in building a golf course. factors through Tennessee In choosing grass for putting greens, geographical location must be considered first. Grasses are usually divided into those suitable for the North and those for the South. The boundary is, roughly, an imaginary line running from Wash- ington, D. C., to Asheville, North Caro- lina, to St. Louis, thence directly west to include Idaho, north to avoid the interior of California, and south to include the California coast. (See accompanying map.) The line is not exact as in some sections northern grasses will thrive south of the line and vice versa. Mountainous regions of the South represent an exception. Bent Grasses In the North, bent grasses have as- first place for putting greens. sumed They seem to have the necessary qualities to make good greens turf better than any other variety. Bent will stand closer mowing than common grasses. While it cannot be con- sidered good cultural practice, some bent greens are cut as close as three-eighths of an inch or even less. Ordinary grasses will not survive this treatment. Because of a dense blade growth, bent is resistant to excessive wear and abuse. It is a vig- orous grower and so is quick to heal after injury. Bent produces playable turf in a short time, especially if planted vege- tatively by the use of stolons. than other kinds. A disadvantage of bent is that it is more expensive In addition, it cannot be used successfully unless artificial watering facilities are available. And, it seems more subject to disease. Kinds of Bent There are so many different varieties and species of bent that the whole sub- ject seems confusing layman. However, the kinds really adapted for use on putting greens are few. They are described briefly as follows: the to Colonial Bent, also called Rhode Is- land and Browntop. This is a generally non-creeping variety that does not form as matted and compact a sod as true creeping bent. It is less exacting in its demand for moisture than creeping bent and will even thrive on dry, sandy or clay soil. It has a wide range of usefulness. Velvet Bent. As its name implies Vel- vet produces a fine stem and leaf growth of velvet-like character. It spreads slowly from overground creeping stems. Pure Velvet Bent seed is almost unknown, as it is usually mixed with other varieties such as South German Mixed Bent. In some instances seed of 50% pure Velvet Bent may be obtained but the cost is al- most prohibitive. South German Mixed Bent. This grass is a mixture of Colonial, Velvet and Creeping Bent with some Redtop. It is largely used for putting greens and a good grade of it produces excellent turf. The turf, however, will be variegated in appearance and texture because of the different kinds of bent in the mixture. Seaside Bent, also known as Coos County Bent. Seaside is produced chiefly in Oregon and Washington. It is dis- tinctly a creeping grass spreading by trailing and rooting overground stems. Seaside has been commercially available for only a few years, but in that time has become quite popular. It is being used in increasingly larger amounts each year as its good features are appreciated. Particularly encouraging have been the results with Seaside in Oklahoma. Other varieties of bent will not survive so far south, but since into Oklahoma in 1928, Seaside has proven very satisfactory even the extreme in southern parts of the state. introduction its Creeping Bent. Creeping Bent is a widely used expression which has lost its value as referring to any particular kind of bent. Formerly it was used to describe South German Mixed Bent but that was misleading as South German Mixed Bent contains a very small percentage of true Creeping Bent. There is practically no true Creeping Bent seed available except as it may be a part of South German Mixed Bent. Seaside comes nearer to the classification of Creeping Bent than any of the others but it has not been recog- nized and named as such by the U. S. Department of Agriculture. Redtop. While botanically classified as a bent, Redtop cannot be considered with them except as it is often used as an adulterant of the other kinds, particu- larly of South German Mixed Bent. It is the coarsest and cheapest of the bent species and is primarily a nurse grass for fairway seedings. The black line represents boundary southern the approximate of northern and putting green grasses. It is almost impossible to utilize bent south of the line except re- gions where the climate is similar to that of the North. in mountainous Creeping Bent Stolons. By accident it was discovered that some of the fine bent varieties could be planted vegetatively. This enabled authorities the most desirable strains, and, by nursery propagation keep them absolutely true to type. So far, planting the seed of such grass has not given the desirable turf produced by planting the chopped roots and runners. to select A creeping bent stolon. The vegetatively planted bent was found so successful that in recent years a large percentage of greens have been planted in that way. We early realized the advantages of this method and in 1921 established a large nursery for the propagation of Creeping Bent. A photo- graph of a small part of the nursery is shown on page 8. in intervals, and, the grass develops When Creeping Bent is cultivated in a long over- nursery runners. These are ground creeping called stolons. Stolons are jointed at close joints or the nodes, as they are sometimes called, are the buds from which new plants develop. (See sketch above.) Whenever the joints come into contact with soil a new plant is formed. Thus a closely knit turf re- sults, as the joints produce a continuous succession of new plants. Creeping Bent has many different strains and some of them are entirely unsatisfactory for putting greens because they develop a decided grain or they are comparatively the many strains the Washington has emerged as the best, and is now used almost exclu- sively the vegetative planting of coarse. Of for greens. There is one other strain which compares with it, that being the Metro- politan. It is quite popular in the East. For planting greens the nursery turf is taken up and cut into pieces one to two inches long. This chopped grass is then broadcast over the green's surface much like seed and given a light top- dressing of screened soil. Stolons are shipped by express, refrigerated freight, or delivered by truck, because they are perishable. They are sold on the basis of the planting area and not by weight or measure. In other words, Creeping Bent stolons are quoted on the basis of the number of square feet in the greens to be planted. Other Grasses for Greens While bent grasses are used mostly on putting greens, other varieties may be planted because of the necessity of using something cheaper, or because bent is not adapted, or because watering facilities are not available. In general, bent grasses are not suitable for use on greens which are not to be watered regularly during dry seasons. Fescue is a grass adapted for putting greens as it stands fairly close cutting and holds up well under heavy wear. Chewings New Zealand Fescue is the only safe variety of fescue to seed on greens. European Red Fescue, so highly recommended, is often badly mixed with either Hard or Sheep's Fescue. These are coarse and inclined to bunch, and are unsatisfactory on a golf course except in the rough. Kentucky is somewhat coarse for use as a turf on putting greens. In some cases, where the soil is especially adapted to it, it is possible to keep it fine by frequent cutting, topdressing and fer- tilizing. As it is not aggressive in the seedling stage, Bluegrass should not be Bluegrass cjixe Putt i n 9 G f6 6H planted alone, but seeded with a nurse grass such as redtop. Redtop is the cheapest grass that can be planted on putting greens. While it is classified as a bent it is considered to be the poor relation of this aristocratic family. Redtop germinates quickly and produces a vigorous seedling which is of fine texture and practically identical to bent the first season. It becomes coarser the second year. On putting greens Red- top will not stand the continued close cutting and so dies out before its coarse- ness has become objectionable. To have a suitable putting surface with Redtop it is necessary to reseed once or twice each year. Mixtures. Quite often Redtop is mixed with bent or other seeds for the purpose of economy in planting. It is necessary to use it with bluegrass, as a nurse crop, and advisable to use it with Fescue. Bent seed mixed with either fescue, bluegrass, or redtop will make a better turf than when the other varieties are seeded alone, for a lesser cost than plant- ing straight bent seed. Colonial is an excellent variety for planting with fes- cue, as both thrive under similar condi- tions of soil and care. redtop, ryegrass, and It Southern Grasses. The grasses for just mentioned are suitable only the North. South of the imaginary line de- scribed above, Bermuda is about the only satisfactory putting green grass. is creeping in habit and vigorous in growth. Unfortunately, however, it turns brown at the first frost and does not make turf during the winter months. For this rea- son, sometimes Kentucky bluegrass are planted in the late fall to furnish a putting surface dur- ing the winter months. These varieties are seeded in with the Bermuda each fall and the same green used both in winter and summer, or separate winter greens are made and seeded. This latter practice is better as the close cutting and trampling of the dormant Bermuda during the win- ter months is harmful to it. The dual green method is to be advised wherever practicable. Creeping Bent Stolons as they are grown in the Scott Nursery. O. 171. Scoti c5> Co. CONSTRUCTION OF GREENS As mentioned before, putting greens offer special problems because of concen- trated play. More than this, the turf is kept cut unnaturally close so that the root system is correspondingly limited in growth. Greens are frequently placed on poorly drained areas or where the soil is poor in order to procure a better golf hole from an architectural point of view. Often these will be on sides of hills where there is danger of surface wash or excessive seepage water. Design In designing a green, surface and sub- soil drainage are important. The grade should be such that the green will drain and there will be no holes or pockets in which water will stand. Inadequate drain- age is often a cause of winter-kill. In the design, mowing and maintenance should be considered. Abrupt depressions and undulations are likely to be scalped by mowers. They are also unfair to the is difficult to hold average player. moisture in turf on steep grades. A grade of more than three per cent is considered undesirable. In the opinion of some of our finest architects, every green should face the player. He should be able to see the ball roll up to the cup—one of the greatest thrills in golf. Greens should rise from front to back. Often the rear of large greens will be as much as ten feet higher than the front edge. It Size The size of greens depends upon the type of hole and its location. In general, a small green is one of 3500 square feet while one of 8000 square feet or over is considered quite large. An average green contains 5000 square feet, making a total of approximately 100,000 square feet of greens area in an eighteen hole course. On public or semi-public courses, where heavy play is expected, it is better to have larger greens, so that wear may be more evenly distributed by frequent changing of the cups. Grading and Shaping Greens Saving topsoil is of prime importance. Before the site for any green is leveled or filled in, as the case may be, all top- soil should be removed to one side and not replaced until the subsoil grade is established. the work traps. Such Before the green is shaped and graded its subdrainage should be studied as well as the likelihood of its being subject to surface wash or seepage from higher ground in the immediate vicinity. Sur- face water from nearby hills may be kept from the greens by grassy hollows and sand traps and hollows should conform to the architecture of the hole. If built while the green is graded they will look more natural, particularly if is done by horse scoops rather than by hand, as by their use it is possible to more nearly approach nature's gentle undulations and slopes. If a green is located at the foot of, or in the side of a hill, particular attention must be paid to the disposal of seepage water which is almost certain to come from the hill. A line of tile inserted at the back of the green and around it will carry off such excess water. The tile should be laid so that they will be at least as low as the putting green surface. Drainage Except in very loose soils, tile drainage is needed for all greens even though they are built up. Bent grasses particularly P LZ iririn 9 G ir G G n need much water, and the excess which must be applied should find facilities for easy removal. Compact soils need tile drainage. A tight subsoil is likely to be- come almost impervious to the free rise and fall of soil water. Superfluous water must be carried off so that air, which is necessary for the growth of grass roots, may circulate through the soil and so that capillary water—which is the only type of moisture the grass can make use of—can move through the soil without interference. One feature of tile drain- age is that it reduces the danger of win- ter-killing. By carrying off excess mois- ture it removes the possibility of injury from the alternate freezing and thawing of soils, which causes heaving. Heaving tends to pull the roots of the plants out of the ground. Another advantage of tile drainage is that it helps to dry the course earlier in the spring and often brings it into playable condition three weeks ahead of the usual time. two or Tile Installation Putting greens are usually drained by means of four inch tile laid in herring- bone fashion, with the main line through the lowest part of the green. The laterals are staggered into the main line. The tile need a fall of at least one inch in twenty feet. In clay soils laterals are placed 2 to 2% feet deep and about 15 feet apart. In sandy soils laterals should be from 20 to 25 feet apart. the inch crushed is often done to Backfilling above the tile lines with three-fourths stone or gravel to within eight inches of the fin- ished grade improve drainage conditions. This will insure a quicker disposal of a heavy down-pour of rain. The back-fill should never be close enough to the surface so as to inter- fere with placing of the hole cup. It is well to install drainage lines sev- eral months before seeding so there will be time for the trenches to settle. Advan- tage should be taken of this same period to lay the necessary pipe for watering the greens and fairways. A map, made at this time, showing all of the important facts regarding the tile line and watering system, will prove later years. invaluable in TRAVERSE C I TY M I C H I G AN C O U N T RY C L U B. A fine green of Chewings Fescue. THE PUTTING GREEN SOIL Economy in golf course construction requires that the subsoil of any green will be whatever can be obtained on the prop- erty. Therefore clay, silt, sand, peat, and all soil textures in between form the sub- soil basis. Not much can be done to them except at great expense. The sub- soil condition will be greatly improved by the addition of tile drainage and care in grading so that water will drain from it naturally just as from the surface soil. Physical Character of the Soil Regardless of the subsoil, the topsoil of all greens should be of about the same physical structure. This topsoil, which should be from four to six inches deep, is the layer in which the root system of the grass works. In it roots get moisture and plant food. It must be of an open, friable structure so that the roots may spread unhampered in any direction, and porous enough to allow for easy absorp- tion and drainage of water. Porous soil also permits circulation of air which is necessary for plant growth. ideal topsoil The is a sandy loam. Loam consists of sand, silt and clay in certain proportions. Topsoil should con- tain at least ten per cent organic mater- ial and thirty per cent sand, while the balance may be clay or silt. Preparing the Topsoil If improved by plowing time permits and expense is not a serious factor, topsoil may be prepared by the acre. Areas of good soil on the property are in manure, sand, green cover crops, or what- ever the soil requires to bring it to the composition described above. However, it is less costly to use topsoil stripped from the putting green area and if addi- tional soil is needed to use that which is removed from traps. Sometimes good soil is brought in from the rough. Good topsoil should never be removed from approaches. Such areas are most important in golf and must have good turf. This cannot be secured on subsoil. It is better to add topsoil to approaches rather than to remove it. Improving the Topsoil Heavy soils, or extremely light soils, such as sand, should have from ten to fifty tons of manure disked into the up- per few inches of each green. Other materials such as sewage sludge may be substituted but it is necessary to use them in very large quantities to appreciably affect the condition of either a heavy or light soil. The purpose of organic mat- ter is to retain moisture, and, as it de- composes, provide plant food. Also, the particles of organic matter force apart the particles of clay or silt and make the soil more crumbly and open in structure. In sandy soils decaying organic matter helps to bind the sand particles together and provides a medium for the storage of moisture and plant food. Manure Substitutes When manure is scarce peat moss or muck may be used as a substitute to assist in improving the physical character of sand, clay and silt. Such material should be limed, manured and aerated by cultivation before use. This is neces- sary because it often contains toxic mat- ter which is harmful to grass. It is sel- dom advisable to use peat or muck unless there is a deposit of them on the prop- erty or they may be hauled in from a short distance and worked into the soil at a cost of a very few dollars per ton. Most peat materials have practically no value except that of improving the phys- ical character of soils. (Note: We will be glad to test samples of peat or muck and advise regarding their use.) crixe Putt i ti i G itg G rr Peat, muck, peat moss, manure, or any other organic matter should never be placed in layers, as such layers interfere with the capillary movement of water, hinder natural soil drainage, and are not conducive to perfect root development. Such materials should be intimately and uniformly mixed with the upper four to six inches of topsoil. Changing Texture Soils may be improved not only by the use of manures or other organic mat- ter but also by the addition of soil of opposite texture. To break up heavy clay, sharp sand is added. To improve a sandy soil, clay or loam is added. The presence of thirty per cent clay particles in a soil classifies it as clay whereas a soil is not classified as sand unless it contains eighty per cent sand. Hence small amounts of clay are needed to change sandy soils but large amounts of sand are required to materially change the properties of a heavy clay soil. This is because of the difference in size of the soil particles. As clay is very fine a given bulk of it will have a much greater modifying effect than the same bulk of sand which is much coarser grained. Other materials that may be used to break up heavy clay are very fine cinders, basic slag and sifted ashes. As with man- ures, however, they should not be put into a green in layers but thoroughly mixed with the soil. Applying the Topsoil Topsoil for greens should be put on after the tile line trenches and the sub- soil has thoroughly settled. If possible it should be spread early enough to per- mit weeds to sprout and be cultivated out before the greens are seeded. Such cultivation also helps to make a fine sur- face. A heavy soil must not be worked when wet as this will result in puddling and making a compact mass, rather than the open friable structure so desirable. In addition to the manure which is worked into topsoil it is advisable to add commercial fertilizers. A complete fer- tilizer with an analysis of four per cent nitrogen, twelve per cent phosphoric acid and four per cent potash is desirable. About fifteen pounds per 1000 square feet should be worked into the upper inch of soil just prior to the last hand raking. If commercial fertilizers are put in too deep they will do no good during the first two or three years as they will be beyond the reach of the grass roots. the Before greens are seeded, it is well to likelihood of damage by consider earthworms. If there white grubs and is a chance that they may become a ser- ious pest the greens should be treated with arsenate of lead. This is worked into the surface soil, after the fertilizer, at the rate of five pounds or more per 1000 square feet. There is some evidence to indicate that such poisoned soils may retard the growth of new turf and so the treatment is not advisable unless it seems necessary. Preparing the Seedbed In the final preparation of the green for seeding, the area should be worked by hand. At that time all stones of a size that would interfere with the hole cup must be removed to a depth of six inches. The topsoil is hand raked and worked until it is brought to a fine mel- low consistency, with the upper inch as fine as sifted ashes. During this prepa- ration, rolling the surface several times will make it even and compact. Rolling also indicates any irregularities that need to be smoothed and trued. The surface should be checked and re-checked to be sure that all parts of the green will drain naturally. A close textured soil must have a grade of at least six inches to fifty feet. PLANTING GREENS When to Seed Regardless of the number of volumes written about fall seeding, many golf courses will be seeded during the spring and summer months, to the later sorrow of the greenkeeper and members. The ideal time to plant greens, whether with seed or stolons, is in early fall between August 20th and September 30th. At that time, unlike conditions in the spring, the soil will be reasonably free from sprouting weeds. There is also a much better chance of getting sufficient rainfall of the kind and amount needed for ger- minating the seed and supporting a heal- thy seedling growth. In late spring and throughout the summer there is an insuf- ficient amount of rainfall, while in early spring it usually comes in heavy showers and in such large quantities as to cause considerable washing. The natural mois- ture supply is most important, regardless of artificial watering facilities. Artificial irrigation will not wholly replace rainfall in the development of turf. Fall is Best In addition Fall is the time when nature sows seed and man can profitably follow her exam- ple. to less trouble from weeds and drought, weather conditions are such as to encourage root develop- ment and not the excessive blade growth which results from spring seeding. Even though the course is in shape so that the greens may be planted in spring or early summer it is usually the follow- ing spring before they are ready for play. They would be playable just as early and at less expense if planting were de- ferred until August or September of the same year. Stolons Safe Anytime Creeping bent stolons are often used because, if water is available, they can time during be planted with comparative safety at any the growing season. While grass planted from seed in late spring or early summer will be very slow in developing turf, greens have been brought into play in from eight to ten weeks by the use of stolons. But, stolons cannot be successfully started unless water is available in large quantities as they require a great deal of moisture during the first few weeks. It is not always safe to predict the length of time necessary to get greens into play. In general, greens stolonized in September will be ready in early May of the following year. Those planted with seed will require more time for de- velopment and are not likely to be ready until about a month later. When planted at other seasons eight or ten weeks of good growing weather is usually suffi- cient for stolons and twelve to fourteen weeks for seed. With Seed for the greens If one of the varieties of bent seed is selected it should be planted at the rate of four pounds to 1000 square feet. This applies to South German Mixed, Velvet, Colonial, Sea- side, Astoria, or any other seeded variety. If it is necessary to reduce the amount of money spent for seed this can be done by seeding one pound of redtop with three pounds of bent. If redtop is used alone four pounds per 1000 square feet is sufficient. Chewings fescue must be seeded at a heavier rate because the seed is much larger and does not go as far. Redtop should be mixed with fescue, to act as a nurse crop, at the rate of one redtop with six pounds of pound of fescue per 1000 square feet. If Ken- tucky bluegrass is used it also should be mixed with redtop in the same propor- tion. Seed Mixtures the proportion of If either bluegrass or fescue is mixed with bent seed the mixture is important. Fescue and blue- grass seeds are much larger than bent and so greater quantities of them must be used to avoid an uneven turf. Unless the amount of fescue or bluegrass used is comparatively great (by weight) the results will be an occasional plant of fescue or bluegrass with bent between, giving an irregular putting surface. A good mixture is 75% chewings fescue and 25% bent; or 65% bluegrass and 35% bent. Sowing Seed is usually broadcast by hand al- though a wheelbarrow seeder or like implement sometimes does a better job. As bent seed is so very fine it is advisable to mix it with an equal bulk of sand or fine screened soil to aid in its distribu- tion. the seed The sowing should be followed by a light raking to cover part of the seed. This must be done carefully to avoid pulling into ridges or rows. After raking, a light rolling will com- pact the soil around the seed and insure moisture for germination. Watering is watered A seeded green immedi- ately after planting if it is desired to hasten germination. It is not absolutely necessary, however, as no harm will come to the seed if it lies in the ground for a few days without moisture. If watering is once started it must be kept up regu- larly or a hard crust will form on the surface which the seedling will be unable to penetrate. This watering should be sufficient only to keep the germinating layer moist at all times. To do this it may be necessary to water seeded greens at least twice during the day, as, in warm weather, the surface dries rapidly. A spe- cial type of nozzle, which will deliver the water in a fine spray, will not dislodge the soil. Planting With Stolons The soil preparation for planting sto- lons is the same as for planting seed. The only difference is that it is necessary to prepare in advance sufficient screened soil for covering the stolons. Compost is preferable although a good loam soil is satisfactory. It should be of a sandy nature and not heavy clay nor pure sand. Whatever is used must be screened through a quarter-inch mesh screen. So that there will be no delay in topdressing, sufficient of the screened soil should be placed near each green for use on it. The amount of such topdressing required will be about one cubic yard per 1000 square feet of planting area. After stolons have been planted it is necessary to water them at once. There- fore, if the lines are not in, or if for some reason watering facilities are not available the planting should be post- poned. it into short For planting greens, the creeping bent turf is taken up from the nursery and run through special chopping machinery to cut lengths. These chopped stolons are then ready for plant- ing. While stolons will retain their vital- ity for several days it is best to have the planting arrangements ready before they are ordered shipped. The sooner they are put into the ground the faster they will grow. (Illustrations of planting opera- tions will be found on pages 20 and 21.) Scattering the Stolons These chopped stolons are broadcast over the greens area. The ground is cov- ered thinly, as shown in the illustration (page 20), to get one live joint on each square inch of surface. After broadcasting, the stolons should be rolled lightly to press them the object being into the soil and then topdressed imme- diately with about one-fourth of an inch of the screened soil. This can be put on by hand as illustrated, or by means of special topdressing spreaders. The sto- lons will not be completely covered and many of them will protrude above the surface. This is advisable as they should not be buried. The area is rolled lightly again and watered at once. A special spray nozzle should be used to avoid washing of the topdressing material and disarranging the stolons. Watering Stolons The care in watering newly stolonized greens determines largely the success of the planting. The key to success is to keep the surface soil moist at all times. It is not necessary to saturate the soil but light applications of water should be made at close intervals. During a warm period when the sun is shining it is essen- tial that the greens be watered two or three times per day. This is most impor- tant. If the surface soil is allowed to dry out completely during the heat of any single day the grass may be killed com- pletely. This regular watering is neces- sary for at least two or three weeks or until the grass has become well rooted. Subsequent Care Following planting, watering of either seeded or stolonized greens will be the only care necessary for a few weeks. After the grass has developed a height of one and a half to two inches either seed or stolon greens should be mowed. The mower must be sharp so that the tender grass is not bruised or pulled out by the roots. Merely the tips of the blades should be cut off and the clippings allowed to fall. Following this first mow- ing subsequent cuttings of seeded greens should be made regularly and the mower blades gradually set down to cut at put- ting green length. After the first few times, it is best to remove the clippings. Cut Closely length to keep After stolonized greens have been cut three or four times the mower is set at putting green the grass short. The greens should be lightly topdressed following the first few mow- ings to encourage the rooting of the new joints and to true-up the surface. After the grass begins to thicken it is well to re- move the clippings. In order to encour- age an upright growth of creeping bent it is necessary to mow it closely. There- fore, after the third or fourth cutting, this should be done, else there is danger of causing a rank and matted turf. New greens and established greens, as well, should go into the winter with a comparatively long growth of grass. Therefore, mowing should cease a short time before growth stops. This longer growth will result in: more carbohydrates being stored in the roots, snow being held for protection of the roots, and pro- tection against unseasonable weather causing a too early growth. During Early Topdressing the first few months after planting it is necessary to topdress greens frequently. This serves to fill in slight depressions in the surface and to cover the creeping runners of bent. After the grass is fairly well established topdress- ing should be lightly brushed in around the new plants. In the early stages of growth topdressing may be done as often as once each week, the frequency de- pending upon how fast the turf thickens and holds the soil after it is spread. Weeds During to sprout, and, while this period some weeds are they do bound not offer much of a problem on stolon greens they do on seeded greens. On seeded greens they should be removed just as quickly as it is possible to get on the newly planted area without damag- ing it. On stolon greens the spread of the bent combined with close mowing will serve to crowd out most weeds. Usu- ally, the majority of weeds that appear are annuals which are destroyed by mow- ing. However, if such perennials as dan- delions, thistle, buckhorn, plantain and the like develop, they should be pulled out, as no stand of young grass can over- come them. Other Treatment Except in unusual cases new greens need not be fertilized until after they have been brought into play (see p. 22). New greens planted with stolons in late fall should be carefully watched during winter and early spring for signs of frost heaving. As the young grass does not have much of a root system alternate freezing and thawing may lit- erally lift some of the grass out of the ground. This exposes it to an excessive drying out which may be disastrous, as stolons require moisture, even in winter. If this happens, the greens should be lightly rolled to press the grass back into the ground. While it may seem that young, tender grass should have some special winter protection, authorities agree that not much can be done. The longer growth of grass recommended will be helpful but that is about all. Straw is often used to cover new greens but there is some question as to the advisability of its use. During a wet winter, the straw will pack and keep much needed air from the grass. L A KE PLACID C L UB IN T HE ADIRONDACKS. Here five private courses owned by the club are well maintained with Scott's Seed. O. 777. S c o tt , 5 o ni C o. MAINTENANCE OF GREENS Mowing During the playing season greens are mowed almost every day or at least five or six times during the week. Special greens mowers are used, there being a number of excellent makes on the mar- ket. The mower must be kept sharp and adjusted at all times and used only by capable workmen. The first thing they should be taught is to mow the greens in absolutely straight lines disregarding un- dulations and contour. Needless to say, the cuttings should overlap to avoid leav- ing ridges. After the green is cut the mower should be run around the outer edge to form a frame for the putting green proper. It is well from day to day to change the direction of cut to encour- age a more upright growth. As the clip- pings are always removed, a definite plan for their disposal is required. They may be spread thinly over bare places in the rough where they will add humus to the soil, or put in sacks or piles to be later picked up and carried to the compost pile or bed. Rolling frost and reestablishes In a sense, a putting green is rolled each time it is mowed. But, in addition it is necessary to use a medium weight roller in the spring. This rolling firms the earth that has become heaved by the action of the smooth sweep of the undulations. Greens are rolled when all frost is out of the ground and the turf begins to feel firm to the foot. Heavy soil must be rolled with discretion, for if it is the least bit wet it will pack. While sandy and grav- elly soils may be rolled without much thought, extreme caution should be exer- cised in rolling any heavy soil. Rolling should not be expected to iron out bumps and other decided irregularities. These must be taken care of by topdressing or by stripping off the sod and removing some of the under soil. Topdressing Greens of either seeded or stolon grass can only be kept in good condition by regular topdressing. This serves to keep the surface true and free from slight ir- regularities so annoying to players. At the same time it covers the runners and roots and provides a surface of new soil for a thicker growth of grass. The thicker the turf, the less trouble there will be from weeds and from drought. By providing a surface mulch, topdress- ing improves capillary action and con- serves the moisture supply. If compost is used for topdressing, it adds valuable organic matter and encourages the propa- gation of the bacteria which are neces- sary for the release of plant food mater- ials to the grass. to be New greens need topdressed every few weeks, while established greens are topdressed four or five times during the playing season. The topdressing ap- plication should be light and worked into the turf so that it will not interfere with play. It is better to make a greater number of light applications rather than occasional heavy ones. Materials for Topdressing Topdressing materials are of (2) screened classes: soil; (3) screened compost. (1) sand; three loam The purpose of sanding greens is to lighten heavy clay soils. Only sharp and comparatively coarse sand that will work down into the clay is suitable. Real fine sand tends to form a crust. Sand top- dressing adds nothing to the green ex- cept a mechanical improvement of the soil condition. Unfortunately, during the past few years the theory has been ad- vanced that sand mixed with commercial fertilizers is all that is necessary to main- tain putting greens in a healthy condi- tion. This is entirely wrong. If compost material is not available a good grade of loam may be used. Such loam should preferably be composed of particles of opposite texture to that of the green. If it tends toward a heavy clay a sandy loam is best, while if the soil is sandy, clay is better. Best of all, however, is compost. It improves the soil both mechanically and chemically. Distributing Topdressing topdressing The distribution of is made in several ways depending upon the equipment available. Sometimes it is hauled onto the green in wheelbarrows and scattered over the surface with shov- els. It may be dumped in small piles and spread by means of a so-called rake board. Probably the most satisfactory method is to use a mechanical topdress- ing spreader. Regardless of the material used, all topdressing should be worked down into the grass roots. Ordinary push brooms or cocoa or flexible steel mats, or even bamboo poles are used. Greens are watered immediately after topdressing. Sulphate of ammonia and other fer- tilizers may be mixed with topdressing to save a separate application. Other ma- terials are also mixed with it at times, as for example arsenate of lead for grub control. Compost The preparation of a quantity of com- post is advisable in the early stages of the development of a golf course. A supply of good compost is necessary to keep put- ting greens in first class condition and the earlier such a supply is available the quicker it will be possible to bring the putting greens to perfection. What Compost Is Compost is an intimate mixture of humus-forming materials with soil and sand. After mixing, it is allowed to de- compose for a period of time so that weed seeds are destroyed and the number of friendly soil bacteria increased. A good compost, containing a liberal quan- tity of organic matter, is not only favor- able for the multiplication of bacteria but also promotes aeration of the soil. A fertile soil is necessary for the heavy crop of grass that a putting green must pro- compost duce, and helps removed from the original soil. In addition to its influence on the growth of grass, com- post makes the soil more resilient, so greens will hold pitched balls better. topdressing with fertility to return the Methods of Making Compost is made in two ways. The older method involves the construction of a so-called compost pile. The newer method, in contrast to making the com- post in a relatively small area, involves spreading the material in shallow layers over a large section of ground, sometimes as much as an acre. Both methods have obvious advantages although the soil bed method is considered more economical be- cause it can be worked by means of ma- chinery, while the pile involves mostly hand labor. The Compost Pile The compost pile is built up in layers about six inches deep. First a layer of soil and then a layer of manure. Other organic materials may be used as partial substitutes for manure such as peat, sod, or grass clippings but they should be placed next to manure. As some natural peat and muck deposits are very toxic or poisonous in character they should be aerated and cultivated for a period of time to dispel toxic substances. As it is made, the pile should be wet down after each layer has been put on. The addi- tion of a complete fertilizer to the pile, during its construction, hastens decompo- sition. One hundred pounds per ton of compost material is sufficient. the topdressing material In building a compost pile the texture of required should be considered. If the natural put- ting green soil tends toward a heavy loam or clay, considerable sand should be added. If, on the other hand, the greens are very sandy, it is well to use clay and loam liberally. Usually the material re- quired is a sandy loam. Unless the soil used in making the compost pile is quite sandy, a sharp clean sand such as build- ing sand should be added. One Year Needed A compost pile may contain 8 or 10 layers of various materials. Because of decomposition such piles may become very hot and they should therefore be wet down several times. After the pile has been allowed to decompose for a while it is turned. This may become nec- essary at intervals of one to two months depending upon the weather. After it has been turned once, the heating will be less intense and there is little chance of the organic matter being destroyed by burning. For thorough decomposition and destruction of weed seeds, the pile should be turned after there is no more heating and allowed to stand some time before being used. The minimum time required for making compost in this way is about one year. Organic materials should represent at least 15% or 20% of the compost bulk. If manure is scarce, it may be replaced up to 50% by peat or other organic ma- terial such as rotted straw and leaves. It is usually advisable to mix about 25 lbs. of lime with every ton of peat before putting it into the pile. The addition of a small amount of lime is beneficial to any compost pile. Making Compost in Beds in recent years. Hand The soil bed method of preparing top- soil and compost has increased in popu- larity is reduced to a minimum since the bed is comparatively shallow and covers a large space. Horse and tractor drawn equip- ment may be used to advantage. labor Flat ground on which the soil is fer- tile and which is out of the line of play should be chosen. the soil bed Barnyard manure or a substitute is ap- plied at the rate of 40 to 50 tons per acre. Green manure crops, of course, serve the same purpose and they may wholly replace barnyard manure. In the preparation of the area should be plowed and disked. After this the organic matter should be spread and disked, or if it is too bulky, it may be turned under with the plow and followed by a spring tooth cultivator which helps to mix it thoroughly. After the sand and organic material have been mixed with the top 4 or 5 inches of the soil by disk- ing, harrowing or otherwise, the bed is again plowed and disked. From then on such roughage as grass clippings, leaves and old sod may be spread over the sur- face and disked or plowed under. Pure sand or clay soils require the ad- dition of a surprisingly large amount of other matter to change them into proper topdressing. If the soil is a stiff silt or clay, sufficient sharp, clean sand should be added to change its texture. Green Manure Crops Legumes such as clover, soybeans and peas are commonly chosen for green manure purposes since leguminous plants are able to collect and store up nitrogen STEPS IN PLANTIN SCATTERING S T O L O N S. Note the workman in stock- ing feet to avoid, disturbing the seed bed. One live joint should be placed on each square inch of surface. TOPDRESSING. Immedu stolons should be light, that the soil. Note FIVE W E E KS L A T E R. The stolons are beginning to completely cover the surface. At G C R E E P I NG B E NT tely after scattering, the y covered with screened grass is not buried. W A T E R I N G. This whkh w/ace is done with a special nozzle The the ¿lstnbutes of a newly planted stolon green must be wdter as a fine misL kept continually moist for the first few weeks. first the growth is thin and patchy but in a jew weeks a complete coverage is secured. from the air through the medium of certain nodule bacteria which form on their roots. A good system is to plant 30 pounds of vetch with one bushel of rye (per acre) in the fall to be plowed under the following spring. Then soy- beans or peas can be seeded at one to two bushels per acre for turning under in late summer. No matter what green manure crop is used, it should be plowed under when it is green and succulent, because it will decompose much more rapidly than if plowed under when it is ripe and woody in nature. Rye is best plowed under in late April and soybeans during the early part of August. Many waste materials are high in or- ganic matter and can be used in compost beds. Sewage sludge, often available at a comparatively low cost, is a fine source of organic matter and certain mineral elements which are beneficial to soil beds and compost piles. Preparing Compost for Spreading Pebbles and stones are not welcome on putting greens. Therefore compost or any topdressing material should be care- fully screened before being applied. Sev- eral machines have been developed for the greenkeeper's use in preparing com- post. Besides and screens, shredders are also available. One of these machines will do a good and quick job of preparing topdressing ready for application to the putting green. compost mixers Fertilizing Greens Putting greens must be regularly fer- tilized. This is necessary to restore the plant food which has been consumed by the grass. Fertilizer also the food elements which are leached out and drained through the subsoil, and over- comes in part the effect of the unnatural replaces conditions under which the grass is being maintained. What Grass Needs in turf production; To feed grass properly its needs musr be understood. Ten mineral elements are necessary for the growth of plant life. Of these, seven are present in nearly all soils in sufficient quantity to maintain grass. The lacking are: three usually the most important ele- (1) nitrogen, ment (2) phos- phorus; and (3) potassium. The main function of nitrogen is to promote vege- tative or leaf growth. That is the all-im- portant thing in growing grass, and it necessarily follows that nitrogen is the most important element in feeding turf. Phosphorus is important in developing root and stem. It gives frame and shape to the plant. Potassium is considered as controlling the living fuctions of plant life resembling the blood and the vital force of the human body. An ample supply of potassium is said to make grass more resistant to disease. A fertilizer containing quantities of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (us- ually expressed in the terms, nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash) is called a complete fertilizer because it supplies the three elements needed. Sources of Plant Food These fertilizing elements are derived from many different sources which are roughly grouped in two classes, namely organic and inorganic materials. The organic sources are chiefly vegetable or animal matter with inorganic sources are either minerals or salts. Ex- amples of organic materials are soybean meal, cotton seed meal and animal man- ures. Examples of inorganic materials are sulphate of ammonia, nitrate of soda, superphosphate and muriate of potash. the Generally speaking, the inorganic fer- tilizing materials by themselves supply but one plant food element. For exam- ple, sulphate of ammonia furnishes only nitrogen, acid phosphate or superphos- phate only phosphorus; and muriate of potash only potassium. In contrast most organic materials have at least traces of all three necessary elements, although these are not always present in the cor- rect proportion for feeding grass. To make a balanced plant food ration, there- fore, two or three inorganic materials are mixed together to make a complete fer- tilizer, or sometimes they are mixed with organic materials to make a complete fertilizer containing both organic and inorganic matter. This latter combina- tion has several advantages, not the least of which is the fact that it gives a fer- tilizer which provides quick stimulation to the grass as well as a slowly available and lasting supply of plant food. Most inorganic materals are immediately avail- able for the use of grass while the or- ganic materals must first be broken down. Complete Fertilizers Needed that A few years ago sulphate of ammonia was the only fertilizer used on putting greens. This was due to the fact that, being composed entirely of quickly avail- able nitrogen, it showed an immediate effect in a greener and more vigorous growth. However, after a few years, it appeared this method of feeding turf was not correct, as it resulted in soft, lush grass, very susceptible to dis- ease and other injury. Another reason for the continued and exclusive use of sulphate of ammonia was the fact that it brought about an acid condition in soils which was thought to be conducive to the growth of bent grass in particular, and discouraging to weeds and clover. But this acid soil theory was never very well substantiated. Greenkeepers have now come to realize that while sulphate of ammonia has cer- tain advantages it cannot be used to the exclusion of all other fertilizers. Better turf will result if a complete fertilizer is used at least part of the time. As pointed out above, such a fertilizer should con- tain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, commonly known as nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash. Nitrogen Most Important As grass requires for its growth more nitrogen than any of the other elements it follows that this should be supplied in the greater proportion. Because of this, agricultural authorities have adopted as a standard grass fertilizer one containing nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash in the ratio of 10:6:4. Another formula having the same ratio between the ele- ments can, of course, be substituted pro- viding an amount is used to make up for the difference in the analysis. In other words, it appears that the ideal turf fer- tilizer is one in which the nitrogen con- tent is equal to the sum of the content of the other two plant food elements, with phosphorus and potash in about a 3:2 ratio. A Standard Program Every greenkeeper must in time estab- lish his own fertilizing program which will depend upon the peculiarities of his soil, climate and amount of play. But a general program can be recommended which will be safe and satisfactory under most conditions. The fertilizing should be done in early spring after growth has well started and the ground is warm. This usually is in late April or early May. At that time an application of a 10-6-4 is desirable, at the rate of 10 pounds per 1000 square feet. At least part of this fertilizer should be of organic origin. This organic fertilizer will be slowly released as the the elements of first M O U N T A IN RIDGE C O U N T RY C L U B, famed course of N. Y. Metropolitan district. Scott's South German Mixed Bent was used on greens of the new course seeded in 1929. Donald Ross, architect. LINVILLE G O LF C L U B, Linville, North Carolina. Here eighteen greens of Scott's Washington Creeping Bent stolons gire superb putting. Bent grass does very well at Linville (although south of the usual bent territory) because of the altitude—almost a mile above sea level. O. 771. S c o tt Oo ns Co. grass needs it, while the inorganic mater- ial will provide the necessary immediate stimulation. A later spring application of the same analysis should follow in a month or six weeks, when seven or eight pounds per 1000 square feet is sufficient. In an ordinary season no more fer- tilizer will be required until fall. How- ever, if weather conditions are unfavor- able or, for some other reason, the grass is not as vigorous as it should be, it can be stimulated by the use of sulphate of ammonia applied at the rate of three to five pounds per 1000 square feet. In some seasons several applications during the summer may be needed. After an attack of brown patch or other disease grass often needs to be revived. In early September the greens should be given another feeding of a complete fertilizer at the same rate as the spring application. Here again the fertilizer should be made up of at least one-half organic materials. If a different analysis is used the rate should be varied so that the same amount of actual plant food is applied. Applying Fertilizers Any fertilizing treatment may be made in connection with the topdressing pro- gram. In fact, the ideal way is to mix the fertilizer with topdressing, as any possibility of burning the grass will be avoided. this latter method Sulphate of ammonia may be mixed with compost or screened soil, diluted in water, or applied in the dry form, al- though is not safe unless the workman is skillful in getting it on evenly. If sulphate is put on in any way other turf should be dry so that none of it will stick to the leaves and cause burning. in solution than the As sulphate of ammonia is readily water soluble it can be applied in solu- tion with spraying or sprinkling equip- ment. The amount of water to use will depend upon how it is to be applied. The normal ratio is 1 pound to 10 gallons of water. Other water soluble fertilizers such as nitrate of soda, urea, ammophos, may be applied in the same way as sulphate. Complete or organic fertilizers may be mixed with soil or topdressing, or put on dry and watered in. Acid Soils and Lime Whether a soil is acid, neutral or alka- line need not greatly concern anyone building a golf course. However, there has been so much written and said about acid soil in connection with weed control during the past 10 years that a few words of explanation may not be out of place. this acid In what may be later known as the "acid soil" era in golf course mainte- nance it was commonly believed that the development of strong acidity resulted in more effective weed control. Soil was made acid by the excessive use of am- monium sulphate and other acid reacting fertilizers. Recent tests and experiments have served to cast considerable doubt upon theory. The present method is to make soils as favorable as possible for grass. Weed growth is re- improved by duced and grass growth proper and maintenance though the soil reaction may be either neutral, slightly acid or slightly alkaline. During this era, lime was absolutely forbidden. It was thought that it encour- aged weeds, and clover as well, which is particularly undesirable in putting greens. This theory too, has been dis- proved. In fact, there are conditions in which lime will decrease the amount of clover present. fertilization e Piu i n g CtrGGrr Lime Sometimes Needed An example of such a condition is where sulphate has been used exclusively in fertilizing greens for a long time so that the acidity in the soil becomes so great that there is no base on which the nitrogen in the soil can react to become available to the grass. As a result, the grass becomes weakened because of ni- trogen starvation, while the clover in- creases as it can thrive without soil nitro- gen. In a case of this kind, a single ap- plication of lime may improve the green tremendously in a short time, in a better growth of grass with less clover. improve A limited amount of lime would prob- ably the greens on many courses, particularly where the overuse of ammonium sulphate has brought about an extremely acid soil. There is a close relationship between the degree of acid- ity in the soil and its suspectibility to brown patch and to injury from drought and heavy play. If a soil test shows the need of lime it should be applied, but sparingly. The maximum application is 50 pounds of finely ground limestone per 1000 square feet. Watering The method of watering greens and the kind and amount of water used are important factors in turf maintenance. The most laborious but, in general, the most satisfactory method of watering is to do it by hand. To save labor special whirling sprinklers are often used. The objection to them is that wind deflects the water and as a result some sections are saturated and overwatered whereas others are underwatered. The common tendency in watering greens with sprink- lers is to put on entirely too much, as it is very easy to let the sprinkler operate for a longer period than necessary. More sick turf results from overwatering than from underwatering. Still another method of applying water is by the use of the newer automatic sys- tems which have been developed. One such system provides for the installation of sprinkler heads distributed through the green which automatically pop-up when the water is turned on and recede when it is shut off. small When to Water inclined to feel that Ordinarily, greens are watered at night or in the early morning. Either time has certain advantages, although most au- thorities are the early morning watering is preferable, particularly if the water used is pumped direct from deep, cold wells. When cold water must be used it is better to put it on in the morning when the greens are cool and more nearly the temperature of the water. Insofar as disease control is concerned, early morning watering is preferable also. Grass is not damaged as much by fungi if it goes into the night in a dry stage as they will not develop as rapidly if the grass is dry. While mois- ture is not the direct cause of brown patch, it does provide a medium in which the fungus can spread. Amount of Water A good greenkeeper soon learns the approximate amount of water which each of his greens requires. The use of too much water will retard the development of the root system of the plant, while too little will result in wilting and brown- ing. It has been found that, in general, the smaller the supply of water during leaf growth, the smaller will be the indi- vidual leaves but the greater the thick- ness of the cell walls. Therefore, grass developed with a relatively small supply of water will be much better able to withstand the wear given putting greens. Such turf will suffer far less during per- iods of drought. In watering it is well to moisten the soil to a considerable depth so the roots will penetrate deeply. Occa- sional watering to a depth of 4 to 5 inches is better than daily light sprink- lings which penetrate only 1 or 2 inches. Good soils need less water than poor soils because they will retain a greater amount of moisture and, at the same time, make more of it available to the grass roots. In the same way, a well drained soil requires less water because in such soil the root system will be more extensive and therefore obtain moisture from a greater depth. Good drainage also carries off the super- fluous water which interferes with the necessary capillary movement of mois- ture in the soil. the grass can Poling Greens the most One of important early morning treatments of greens is to pole them by means of 20 to 25 foot bamboo poles. These are whipped across the greens early each morning to break up any mycelium or cob-webby growth of brown patch, and to remove worm casts and clean the greens ready for watering and mowing. Renovating Creeping Bent As creeping bent is naturally a vigor- ous grower there is some tendency for it to develop a matted growth, particularly if it is over-fertilized. A spongy, uneven putting surface results. To overcome such a condition the dense intertwining growth of stems and runners must be removed. To do this sharp tined rakes are employed to pull up the grass which is then removed by close mowing. This operation should be repeated until the matted grass is thinned out. Greens will look badly after such treatment but restored quickly by topdressing and the applica- they can be tion of a small amount of quickly avail- able nitrogen. The tendency of creeping bent to mat can be controlled by judicious fertilizing and proper methods of mowing and top- dressing. An occasional brushing and raking will insure an upright growth and enable the runners which develop. Special greens rakes and cultivating disks can be purchased to use in maintaining an upright growth and in aerating the turf. the mower to cut Special Problems of the South The southern greenkeeper will follow the same general plan of maintenance as the northern greenkeeper. During the summer months his Bermuda greens need topdressing regularly, with occa- sional applications of fertilizer. If Ber- muda develops a matted growth it should be treated the same as creeping bent. To provide winter turf in the south it is necessary to seed greens, as Bermuda becomes dormant after the first frost. Ryegrass, redtop and occasionally blue- grass are used. If separate winter greens are not available, the Bermuda grass is scalped by close mowing and the greens seeded after a light topdressing. Winter grasses are seeded heavily at 6 to 8 pounds per 1000 square feet. Light ap- plications of a complete fertilizer will keep winter greens in good condition. The Turf Nursery As soon as possible after planting greens a turf nursery is usually started with seed or stolons of the same kind and strain as that on the greens. A suit- able nursery comprises several thousand square feet and is planted in the same way as the greens. It should be kept carefully mowed and topdressed so that the turf can be used to patch sections of the greens which have been injured in Co. of burning, from the suggested rates, however, will not be lasting or serious. Mowrah Meal. The use of unadulter- ated fresh Mowrah meal is considered safe and effective. It should be applied at the rate of 15 pounds to 1000 square feet of putting surface and well watered in. Fresh Mowrah meal should always be used as it deteriorates rapidly, espe- cially when stored in a damp place. time during Lead Arsenate. In some cases arsenate lead has given complete control of of earthworms. However, it does not seem effective on all soils and must be applied in larger quantities than necessary for destroying grubs. On established greens the arsenate should be applied at the rate of 10 or 15 pounds per 1000 square feet, any the growing season. Established turf may be injured if the arsenate is applied carelessly. It should be mixed with moist screened sand or soil, so that it can be evenly distributed, applied when the grass blades are dry, and watered in after application. To in- sure control against earthworms and grubs some greenkeepers mix arsenate of lead with each topdressing at the rate of about 5 pounds per 1000 square feet. constant and effective Ants Ants share with earthworms the honor of trying the golfer's temper by defacing the putting green surface. Ants are about the most difficult insects to control. Methods of eradication are many but the one most used is to gas the hills with carbon bisulphide. A few drops should be put into each hill and the holes closed with a little wet earth pressed down with the foot to keep the gas inside the bur- row. Carbon bisulphide must be handled very carefully as it is inflammable and it also burns turf badly. Calcium cyanide may be used instead of carbon bisulphide. Paris green mixed in equal proportions with brown sugar will often destroy a colony, as the ants will carry the poison to their nests and feed it to the young. A similar remedy suggested is that of dropping a pinch of powdered sugar and borax, well mixed, into the entrance of each nest. Moles The main damage caused by moles is the lifting of turf and cutting off roots in their runs. On putting greens they are best controlled by trapping with special mole traps of which there are several good makes available. Carbon bisulphide also is used. A wad of cotton should be saturated with it and inserted into the end opening of the burrows after all other openings are closed. Bisulphide is very inflammable and workmen should not be allowed to smoke while using it. Crawfish As crawfish live only in very wet soils the logical remedy is good drainage. Car- bon bisulphide is also effective with this pest. It is applied directly into the bur- rows by means of a long nozzled oil can. Five or six drops are inserted in the bur- row, which is immediately closed. It has been reported also that crawfish may be «destroyed by dropping a piece of calcium carbide tunnel. The carbide unites with the water at the bot- tom of the hole to make a gas which kills the crawfish. into the Skunks Skunks will seldom do damage around golf courses except where grubs are pres- ent. Their work should therefore be a warning to the greenkeeper that he must get after the grubs which do more dam- age than skunks. Scott Turf Products G o lf C o u r se Seeds. We supply all varieties of d o m e s t ic a nd i m p o r t ed grass seeds. A ll carefully selected a nd recleaned to be free f r om weeds a nd foreign m a t t e r. C r e e p i ng B e nt S t o l o n s. W a s h i n g t on a nd M e t r o p o l i t an strains. N ew stock of strong, h e a l t hy joints always available. Fertilizer. Scott's T u rf B u i l d e r —a c o m p l e te grass f o o d. C o n t a i ns 10% nitrogen, 6% p h o s p h o r ic acid, 4% p o t a s h. O n e - h a lf of these ele- m e n ts supplied by organic m a t t er to give a slow, steady feeding. More than 1,200 golf courses sow Scott's Seed « Scott Publications Free to Golf Club Officials, Greenkeepers, etc. TURF DISEASE BULLETIN—A complete treatise on the cause and control of the various diseases attacking fine turf. GREENKEEPERS the Educational Conferences of the 1930 and 1931 conventions of the National Asso- ciation of Greenkeepers. Reports of subsequent conventions will also be published. bulletins reporting REPORT—Two CONVENTION LAWN timely bulletin issued five times yearly discussing problems of lawn making and maintenance. A complete file of back issues sent upon request. CARE—A LAWNS booklets describing the general problems of lawns, the latter dealing particularly with bent lawns planted with seed or stolons. LAWNS—Two and BENT Those responsible for golf courses quite surely will be confronted time by situations which this book nor any other will solve. be glad, through correspondence, special problem. to cooperate with to In such cases, we shall its the club in the solution of from time INDEX Acidity, 25-26 Algae, 34 A l k a l i n i t y, 25-26 Ants, 37 A r s e n a te of lead, 12 B e e t l e s: J a p a n e s e, May, 36 B e nt Grasses, d e s c r i p t i on of, 5 k i n ds of, 5-6 B e r m u da G r a s s. 8, 25 B i c h l o r i de of M e r c u r y, 32 B l u e g r a s s, 7 B r o wn p a t c h, avoiding-, checking- 32 a p p l y i ng f u n g i c i d e s, 32-33. B u c k h o r n, 28 Calomel, 32 C h e w i n gs N ew Z e a l a nd F e s c u e, 7 C h i c k w e e d, 28 Clover, Colonial Bent, 6 Compost, c o n t r ol of, 28-29 c o m p o st bed, 19 c o m p o st pile, 18-19 definition of, 18 g r e en m a n u r e, 20-21 m e t h o ds of m a k i n g, 18 p r e p a r a t i on f or s p r e a d i n g, 22 t i me r e q u i r e d, 19 C o n s t r u c t i on of Greens, 9-10 Coos Bent, 6 C o r r o s i ve S u b l i m a t e, 32 C r ab Grass, 28 C r e e p i ng B e n t, 6 C r e e p i ng T h y m e, 28 D a n d e l i o n s, 28 Design, 9 Diseases, 31-35 D r a i n a g e, s e e p a ge w a t e r, 9-10 s u r f a c e, 9 u n d e r g r o u n d, 9-10 E a r t h w o r m s, 12, 36-37 F a i rv R i n g s, 34 Fertilizing- a p p l y i n g, 25 c o m p l e te needed, 23 n i t r o g en needed, 23 s o u r c es of, 22 s t a n d a rd p r o g r am of, 24-25 w h at g r a ss needs, 22 E u r o p e a n, F e s c u e: C h e w i n g s, Sheeps, 7 G r a d i n g, 9 G r a s s es f or Greens, 5-8 Grubs, a n t i c i p a t i ng d a m a g e, 12 c o n t r ol of, 36 d e s c r i p t i on of, 36 H e a v i n g, 9, 35 Hole Cups, 28 H o l l o w s, 9 I n s e ct a nd A n i m al Pests, 36-37 K e n t u c ky B l u e g r a s s, 7 Lime, 25-26 M a i n t e n a n ce of Greens, 17-29 M a n u re s u b s t i t u t e s, 11 M e t r o p o l i t an C r e e p i ng Bent, 7 Moles, 37 Moss 29 M o w i n g, e s t a b l i s h ed g r e e n s, 17 n ew g r e e n s, 15 * Muck, 11 Oxeye Daisy, 28 P e a t, P e at Moss, 11-12 P l a n t a i n, 28 P l a n t i ng Greens, f a ll is best, 13 r a te of seeding, 13 seeded v a r i e t i e s, 13 s o w i ng t he seed, 14 w a t e r i n g, 14-15 w h e n, 13 w i th stolons, 14 P oa A n n u a, 29 P o l i n g, 27 P y t h i u m, 33 R e d t o p, 6-7 R e n o v a t i ng C r e e p i ng Bent, 27 R i ng patch, 33 Rolling, 17 Scald, causes, remedies, 34 identification, 34 Seaside Bent, 6 Seedbed, p r e p a r i n g, 12 S e e p a ge w a t e r, 9 Size of Greens, 9 S k u n k s, 37 Sludge, 11 Snow Mold, i d e n t i f y i n g, 34 t r e a t m e nt of, 35 Sodding, 27 Soil, c h a n g i ng t e x t u re of, 12 t e x t u r e, 12 Soil f or Greens, 11-12 S o u th G e r m an Mixed Bent, 6 S o u t h e rn Grasses, 8 S o u t h e rn p r o b l e m s, 27 Soybeans, 19 Speedwell, 28 Stolons, C r e e p i ng Bent, 7 i l l u s t r a t i o n, 8 i l l u s t r a t i on of, 7 n u r s e ry p l a n t i n g, 7 s c a t t e r i n g. 14 s t e ps i l l u s t r a t e d, 20-21 s u b s e q u e nt care, 15 t o p d r e s s i n g, 15 t o p d r e s s i ng for, 14 w a t e r i n g, 15 Stolons, p l a n t i ng of, S u l f a te of a m m o n i a, 18, 25, 26, 28, 29 Tile i n s t a l l a t i o n, 9-10 T o p d r e s s i n g, H a r d, Topsoil, d i s t r i b u t i n g, 18 e s t a b l i s h ed g r e e n s, 17-18 m a t e r i a ls for, 17 stolons, 14-15 d e p th of, 11 f e r t i l i z i n g, 12 ideal c o n d i t i on of, 11 i m p r o v i n g, 11 p r e p a r i ng f or seed, 11 T r a p s. 9 T u rf D i s e a se Control, 31-35 T u rf n u r s e r y, 27 Velvet Bent, 6 W a s h i n g t on C r e e p i ng Bent, 7 W a t e r i n g, a m o u nt of, 26-27 e s t a b l i s h ed g r e e n s, 26 n ew g r e e n s, 14, 15 w h e n, m e t h o d s, 26 e s t a b l i s h e d, 28-29 in n ew g r e e n s, 15-16 W e e d s. W i n t e r - k i l l, 9, 35 W i n t er P r o t e c t i o n, 16